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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - ...and flywheel bolts?

...'cos I've found 4 different versions. The A+ ones are easy because they have shallow heads to clear the driven plate. Anyone got any sneaky advice on the selection of the bolts? I was going to forsake the locktab in favour of Locktite plus a washer since I can't be bothered to wire-lock them.
rob multi-sheds thomas

there's no connection between locktab washer and wire-locking is there? - as original, only the lock washer is used...
David Smith

[3rd attempt at posting this]

...Ahhh. I don't have a locktab but, being an aircraft builder, I do have lots of locking wire and a bolt drilling kit.
No good trying to wire-lock the A+ bolts as they are so thin in the head area that they would have their strength compromised by the drilling process. The Morris Minor ones (plus maybe 1275 midget?) ones I have found have much thicker heads on them.
rob multi-sheds thomas

see what you mean, yes the 1275 are thicker heads, black finished and presumably high tensile.
David Smith

I use 12.9 grade cap heads and change every time I replace the flywheel, I once sheared all the flywheel bolts and pegs on my race car, the flywheel then tried to weld to the crank. I use loctite nut lock (270) on them now.
Mark

This thread was discussed on 05/06/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.