MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Before I put engine back

I'm starting to put all the "bits" onto the reco'd engine before I put it back into the car.

I've put in a new clutch and pressure plate, and was wondering whether there is anything else I should replace before I put it back? I'd hate to have to take the engine out again because I missed some sort of seal or something.

Wazza



w butler

Wazza,
lookin good...
I would be inclined to replace the front and rear oil seals on the gearbox if they are old and the clutch bearing. Also check the clutch arm pivot bolt as these can drop out.

MGmike
M McAndrew

Bob Turbo Midget England

For a 1500
Thrust and main bearings
Onno Könemann

... and biggies whilst you're about it; timing chain?

A
Anthony Cutler

Freeze plugs? Low cost and now you have ample room for controlled hammering.
Willem vd Veer

make sure the oil pressure relief valve and spring are fitted. its a bit worrying when you turn your shiny new engine over and there's no oil pressure :-(

graeme
graeme jackson

This will not work. If people will continue to advise what to change, you wil have overhauled the engine completely! I think you should be advised what to check and decide yourself what to change.
J.W. Vlaanderen

yes but he might have missed something and anyway he can decide what to check or change anyway

Wazza has choice - it's just advice no one can force Wazza to look at it or read it let alone do it :)
N Atkins

Guys,
please read Wazza's post again.....
It's a recon engine and most of those should have been done... Wazza is asking about things going "ON TO" the engine.

MGmike
M McAndrew

Thanks for the replies, and the stuff inside the engine has already been reco'd so I just have to put the engine back.

I was looking for advice on stuff like MGmike gave. Although it is interesting in that I've been reading that the "later" 1500 engines didn't have oil seals????? I was confused, but apparently the thinking was that the oil level was below where any leaks would come from anyway.

Bit like my diff not having any drain hole - nearly sent me "crackers" that one.

The oil pressure relief valve and spring are things I'll definitely be taking special care of.

With the clutch bearing and pivot bolt, do I need a press to get the bearing out???

Wazza

w butler

Mine has oil seals at front and back - never knew they didn't, and what a silly thing to do! I would certainly put them on anyway .....

Then, of course, you can always put a pair of dellortos and K&Ns and and and and and and!!!!!
rachmacb

"I've been reading that the "later" 1500 engines didn't have oil seals?????"


First I have heard of that, and I've been building them for nearly 30 years!

I imagine some confusion has crept in somewhere about the gearbox input shaft seals - early ones had a scroll seal, later ones had a lip seal.





"With the clutch bearing and pivot bolt, do I need a press to get the bearing out???"



The single rail gearbox SHOULD NOT HAVE a clutch release arm pivot BOLT. If it does then it has been mullered by some previous owner. It should have a fulcrum pin and a tolerance ring (something like a long crinkly tube that fits over the pin).

To remove the pivot assembly you merely drift the pin out gently.

To remove the release bearing you first have to remove the carrier assembly. You do this by drifting out the 2 dowels that hold the 2 retaining plugs (one above and one below the carrier). The bearing can then be removed from the carrier with a simple 3 legged puller.

Re-assembly is the reverse procedure.


See: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005698




Deborah Evans

Although doo-able with engine in I would put on the fuelpump and hookup the clutchpipe to the slavecylinder and put on the slavecylinder once the engine/gearbox are back in the car.

Maybe my way is not the right way but it is how ive handled my 1500 in&out projects.
Arie de Best

Well, since everyone else is throwing in random and un-asked for ideas, how about a general tidy up and repaint of the engine bay before you put that nice clean engine back in!

Guy
Guy

Concours Guy?!
rachmacb

Don't believe I was suggesting that Rach! But whatever standard is appropriate to Wazza's level of interest.
Guy

Thanks everyone for your advice. Deborah, thanks for coming in with your knowledgeable comments . . . and I reckon you are perfectly correct . . I'm confused.

This is my first attempt at doing some "mechanics", and with these cars having so many changes between years, it is hard to keep up. You have no idea how much I scratched my head wondering why there was no drain plug in my diff. Then I find out that my 1979 model didn't have drain plugs . . . so it followed that there would be no oil seals?????

I'm certainly not going for concours, but seeing I had to cut the tops of both footwells and swap them over to go from LHD to RHD, I sprayed up anyway.

There is certainly a lot to think of.

Wazza


w butler

This thread was discussed between 19/10/2011 and 20/10/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.