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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake light switch
How many years should a hydraulic or 1500 pedal box switch last? Also is there a better pedal box switch than the plastic one for the 1500 midget? And, has anyone engineered in a second switch so that there planned day out isn't ruined by discovering a faulty switch when checking the car over the night before? |
Daniel |
The original Lucas hydraulic switch fitted to my 1961 Frogeye is still going (although the brake lines have been changed!) NOS Lucas will be ok although I think the repro hydraulic switches however have a life measured in months! |
Bob Beaumont |
There was a detailed write up in MASCot a few years ago about why these switches, and particularly the aftermarket ones, fail. Possible by Alan Anstead? The solution I went for wad to add a relay and despite using a repro one it hasnt failed since this adaptation. |
GuyW |
I too added a relay but have had to replace the old switch. Keep meaning to saw it open to see the contacts. With conventional bulbs the current draw is 3.5A, albeit momentarily. |
Bill B |
Guy The article on brake light switches was probably Dr J E Davies. Alan |
Alan Anstead |
Ah, thanks Alan. You do so many MASCot articles I thought it was you! Should have checked my back copies but that could have taken me a while! |
GuyW |
I’m pretty sure that the brake light switch on my B is original. It certainly hasn’t been changed in the 39 years I’ve owned it. I did fit a relay a few years ago, so it will hopefully last another half a century. |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
Goy I DID write so many articles. Kent Masc is no more although those members that have left, because of the actions of Lara Warburton, and others that have left because of a few bad eggs on committee have bonded with those that may choose to remain in Masc to form a breakaway group known as Spridgeteers. We had fourteen cars out today for ‘Drive it Day’ although our number is 60+. I doubt that I will remain a Masc member long! |
Alan Anstead |
Like Bob, my hydraulic switch is original on my '66 Sprite I reckon. I've had it since 1977, and doubt anyone before me ever changed it. |
anamnesis |
Daniel,
I had a similar issue with two modern replacements failing after a couple of months, about 15 tears ago. Not knowing about relays then I opted for a plastic replacement from ebay for a couple of quid. It's still in there and working fine (that'll put the mockers on it no doubt). Image attached, think it was for a Mini and the hole in the pedal box needed enlarging IIRC. Aside from a relay or a plastic switch have you thought about LED brake light bulbs? They should reduce the current flowing through the switch and help prolong its longevity? ![]() |
Jeremy MkIII |
I see you have the very simple grease nipple modification to the pedal shaft. My very original brake switch gave up at around 40 years of age. That was followed by two repro ones which both lasted barely 12 months. So I added a relay which seemed to cure the problem. Not fully conclusive as a few years later I changed to brake light LEDs, mainly because they are brighter and quicker to light up. Every lumen and nanosecond helps when there is a big SUV bearing down on one! |
GuyW |
Thanks for the comments. I have a Goodridge banjo bolt brake light switch that lasted over 7 years (though not with a great many miles). I will try and get a Mini switch that I can fit to the pedal box (later type) fitted to my car and then once I have it working ok remove it and keep it as an Emergency spare. |
Daniel |
Your idea that Guy! ISTR your pedal box shaft had seized(?) and this was your solution? Agree about the LEDs - every little helps. Have printed out Bill's idiot proof (we'll see) instructions for wiring up headlights as DRLs so should be visible at both ends of the car. |
Jeremy MkIII |
I may be senile, but I do remember I did mine like that! Just wasn't sure you gleaned the idea from me! |
GuyW |
This thread was discussed between 25/04/2025 and 28/04/2025
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