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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Clutch Slave Cylinder

The Made In Taiwan POS which is the current clutch slave cylinder has given up the ghost after about 2 years of very easy use.

I've just emailed PowerTrack to see what they have to offer and suspect Paul will respond tomorrow.
In the meantime has anyone had a good experience of a particular brand which lasts for more than a couple of years? AP Lockheed for example?
Jeremy MkIII

https://ccparts.nl, they make them

Flip
Flip Brühl

Cheers Flip, that's a handy to know website; it's in my bookmarks now.
Jeremy MkIII

It appears that Power Track now only sell after market slave cylinders.
Moss sell an AP Braking Lockheed version for £50 whilst Peter May do a 'high quality' replacement for £61. (https://www.petermayengineering.com/product/slave-cylinder-1-0-1275/)
They're about twice the going rate for Chinese POS and as I'm pee'd off that the slave cylinder needs replacing again, I'm prepared to pay the premium if they last a lot longer.
Has anyone used either of these replacements and do the last?


Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy,

What's actually failed in the slave cylinder?
David Billington

I have used the Delphi version which may be Lockheed ?
It’s been ok for a long time 10 years ?(touching wood )

I do use Silicon fluid which I think is a good call for cars left standing for ages i.e mine !

Don’t know if the cheap ones are any good but the seals may be poor rubber ?
If your cylinder bore is ok you could just get a seal kit.

If you haven’t already I recommend slotting the top bolt flange into a U shape to make fitting much easier.

R.
richard b

I heard a rumour that the chinese ones are bored out to 1 inch but they use 25mm seals. That would be one way of shortening the life of them. Don't know how true it is.
Rob
MG Moneypit

David, haven't taken it off yet to examine however suspect it's the seals as it's been dripping fluid for a while and the leak is becoming bad enough to make gear engagement difficult.

Richard, I also use silicone (Automec) fluid for both brake and clutch for the same reason as you, it doesn't absorb water and won't strip the paintwork if you spill it.
Jeremy MkIII

The problem with this cylinder is:
1 The spot underneath the car that allows sand, salt, water and dirt to get in despite the rubber cuff. Silicone helps a little against water ingress. A rust-proof piston also helps.
2 The skewed position of the cylinder so that the bleed nipple is not in the place of the air bubble. Tilting the car and pressing the piston helps.

Flip


Flip Brühl

Absolutely Flip. It is is an exposed position and the quality of the components and tolerances are probably not the best.
I've fitted a remote bleed valve and bought a vacuum kit so in the past that's made bleeding it a lot quicker and easier.
Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy

I’d be tempted by a genuine AP Caparo (now ‘920 Engineering’, was AP Caparo, AP Lockheed, Lockheed) and if not one by Delphi.

David Manners might be worth a try too along with Past Parts and Coasting Ltd.

What are the part numbers for a 1 inch clutch salve cylinder? is it a Unipart GSY113, if so the AP Caparo part number is 4253-310P (Lockheed LL13310). Note sure who made it as part number DAM620 (is that Rover Group?) or YCL6100 (Delphi?)

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

Jeremy

Further to my post the Delphi part number I think is LL13310.

I wonder if we have got to the point with the availability of good quality parts it is time to get genuine but tired slave cylinder re sleeved and rebuilt by firms such as Past Parts.

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

Thanks for all the info Mike, I'll have a look and see where the Delphi one is available.
Struggled to find 920 Engineering so have emailed Paul Hunt to see what he stocks.
Thanks again.
Jeremy MkIII

Have you taken it off for inspection? If just dodgy seals then maybe a good quality rebuild kit would sort it. I read somehwere that they can also be sleeved with stainless.
AdrianR

No not taken it off the car yet Adrian.
Not had a good experience with modern rebuild kits, having failed to resuscitate an o/e master cylinder after two attempts.
Maybe I've been unlucky or ham fisted but this time I'd like to get a decent quality piece and if at a later date, it fails then have it re-sleeved as you suggest rather than mess about with the existing cheap Taiwanese part.
Jeremy MkIII

The Delphi cylinder ll13310 is still available from a variety of motor factors but its around £93.00. It also is fitted to the MGB GT V8

It is unique to the 1275 spridget.
Bob Beaumont

Sorry Rob missed your comment - may have been posting at a similar time. If what you say is right then that would explain its premature failure.
When it's off I'll measure the internal diameter and see what it shows.

Thanks Bill, am about to check with Moss what their £50 offering's origin is. Suppose if the Delphi costs £93 and lasts 10 years, that's only £9.30 a year 🙂
Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy,
I fitted a Delphi (Lockheed) cylinder back in 2009 and its seems to be fine.Perhaps the quality over the years has changed though :(
Bob Beaumont

Bit the bullet and ordered one from Moss Bradford.
Really helpful chap on the phone who said it was a Caparo unit and even though it was 3:45pm he said he'd pick, pack and post it that afternoon - it arrived at 10:30 this morning. Good service by Moss and Royal Mail.

No make on it but it's made in the UK and the outer seal has Lockheed on it so hopefully it is made by AP Caparo.





Jeremy MkIII

Glad to see that you are sorted with a new cylinder.

With brake parts it is often worth considering having cylinders lined. Not cheap but does provide longevity.

Whilst fitting the slave make the job of bleeding it much easier and fit a remote bleed. No more squeezing into the footwell to bleed just stand and do it under the bonnet in the engine bay.

If you fit a remote bleed you can drill out the venturi in the slave cylinder port and thus reduce that area where an air bubble may remain in the cylinder.

Pictured is my display bell-housing showcasing my roller release bearings, remote bleed, & ‘quick-fit’ modification to the slave cylinder top boss.






Alan Anstead

Just to add to Rob's comment, I've struck that issue with aftermarket wheel cylinders here - not so much MG stuff but have had a few 15/16" cylinders with 23mm cups fitted----they last a little while but not long

willy
William Revit

Thanks Alan, your display bell housing looks very impressive and very clean - obviously.

Mine suffered two clutch release bearing failures (the carbon disintegrated) in quick succession shortly after it was back on the road in 2008. Not knowing about your roller bearing solution I fitted a Peter May one and touch wood, it's still in there. It's a bulkier set up than yours though.

I've copied yours/Guy's/Anam's/Willy's idea of the remote bleed and have cut a slot in the top fixing flange to simplify removal and installation.

When you say 'you can drill out the venturi in the slave cylinder port' - where is that?

I have a vacuum bleeder which worked well but the helpful chap at Moss Bradford suggested not using a power bleeder as he believed it could damage the seals in the longer term?

Willy, I've not changed it yet, loins are being girded, but will measure the bore and piston of the old one to see what size they are - suspect like you suggest they'll metric close equivalents.
Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy
I have used a Peter May roller release. They are good when fitting a T9 gearbox as it has a guide over the 1st motion shaft that stops it drooping.
That said my own T9 conversion uses my roller release but with an obsolete QH clutch that has a pressure pad on the diaphragm.
My release bearing is lighter, can self centre, & run off centre.

The venturi in the slave is the narrowing in the entry / exit port where the bleed nipple fits. Avoiding touching the threads you can drill it through, if fitting a remote bleed, and it reduces that area within where air might pocket. Some might consider it OTT. Personally I have never experienced problems bleeding a clutch.

I now use Goodridge automatic bleed valves from Demon Tweeks.



Alan Anstead

Ok see you what you mean Alan, thanks for the explanation.
Like you I have tried an automatic bleed valve (from the same supplier coincidentally) but found it leaked all the time so reverted to the original type.
Jeremy MkIII

This thread was discussed between 12/02/2024 and 23/02/2024

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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