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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Electrical - Brakes/Reversing Lights
My car was rebuilt onto a new shell around 2001, I purchased this car in March and have only just started to find my around the car (should'nt have taken this long eh!!!). My Haynes manual tells me that both the brake lights and reversing lights area fead through the same fuse (or were originally!), I have checked the fuses are ok but do have problems with the operation of both. Upon purchasing the car, only one reversing light was working, I simply purchased a replacement bulb for the other and all appeared to be ok. Since then however, neither reversing light comes on -both bulbs are still ok. Also, my brake lights do not come on unless you have literally pushed your foot through the floor, and only gradually come on from half way (almost as if they are controlled through a dimmer switch). I have checked the use of both lights with the engine off and running (same result for both). Any tips on rectifying the above would be most welcome from a Novice Spridgeteer!!!!! Chris |
Chris (1970 Midget) |
Chris two separate problems you have going on. 1. Brake lights, I had the same issue had to practically put my foot through the floor to get them to work. You should have a hydraulic switch on the three way union that is under the engine bay. Follow the pipe from the master cylinder and it has two wires on it. If I remember correctly about £6 to replace and know my lights come on a treat. 2. Reversing lights again I had a similar problem put a new bulb in and still did not work. I simply unplugged the connector and plugged it back in again and they then worked but I would take a voltmeter to the contact and make sure you are getting 12v with the car in reverse (engine not running off course ;-) as it could be the reverse switch on the gearbox. Shaun |
S Riches |
Chris, welcome novice Spridgeteer. The two different problems are as Shaun says Any minute now this thread will be inundated by people telling you not to run the actual switching current through the NEW BRAKE LIGHT switch you are going to have to buy. They are right! My car has gotten through three brake light switches since 2000AD, because the current handling ability of new stock switches is poor. We now all recommend fitting a relay to the brake light circuit so that the current the switch handles is reduced to low amperage as it only operates the switching coil of the relay instead of running two 21W 12V bulb filaments. The power handling part of the relay can happily cope with the higher demand for the bulbs. Fitting the relay is not too difficult. The picture is a fair guide to the job, I think The reversing light units are awful at carrying power into the bulbs and then back out to the earth, which it does via rivets that easily corrode at the point of contact with the castings. The corrosion comes in a form that insulates the body of the light units. I hsd to make and fit new rivets to the Mazak castings to maintain continuity (Or bite several bullets and buy new castings to do the job...) I riveted! ![]() |
Bill |
Thanks all, for your help. Will give me something to do this weekend. Chris |
Chris (1970 Midget) |
This thread was discussed between 02/06/2008 and 03/06/2008
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