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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Front suspension questions

Rebuilding the front suspension and before I break out the FBH, is the cotter pin which fits into the bottom of the kingpin a "tap to fit"?

When I tried a practice assembly, it wouldn't push up far enough for the nut to engage. And am I right in assuming that the fulcrum pin at the bottom doesn't screw right in (and tight), but has to be central in the wishbone? For the above cotter pin to fit?

I'm using the Barry King uprated type of wishbone, it has a different design of fulcrum pin.

And are the bolts form disc to hub OK to reuse?

And has anyone fitted a Peter May 2nd link?

AndyB
a borris

I had some duff cotter pins and I think I had to file to fit. I know this isn't me being a clutz as I had older pins (that had been hammered out) to reference new pins against.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

come to think about it Andy, one of the pins when I rebuilt the lower end last year had a "big" cotter pin too, just a judicial rub with a 2nd cut half round file sorted it in no time. That may be more common now there is no Factory back up for our spares

:-)
Bill sdgpm

my cotter pin fits in from _above_

the screw thread must have enough free movement so that the thread can turn in use.
Will Munns

Andy,

I've fitted a Peter May 2nd link. Fairly straight forward but as with all PM bits his instruction are not the best - they forget to tell you to cut a hole in the inner wing for the new link to pass through! Obvious I know but I would have thought that this could have been mentioned in the instructions

Regards

JohnT
John Turner (Midget & MGB)

Yup, I've the installation instructions for the Panhard rod and it's not that clear, while the 2nd link didn't come with any fitting advice!

Well made bit of kit though.

Any chance of a pic so I can get the hole in the right place?! And be sure I've assembled it correctly.

Thanks

AndyB
a borris

Andy,

Will take a pic tommorrow evening and upload it

JohnT
John Turner (Midget & MGB)

Thanks JohnT
a borris

I have fitted the Peter May kit to my 1275, and have to agree about the lack of instructions. The main thing he fails to tell you is that the front brake pipes have to be moved, as the second link exits the inner wing at the position of the hose to pipe bulkhead connection.
Good bit of kit however, and increases straight line stability.

Dave
Dave Barrow

Andy,

Dave Barrow has beaten me to it about the brake pipe!

You will see in the picture that my cut out is not very elegant - I am sure you can make a better job. It dosen't need to be that long as at that point on the new link vertical movement from unloaded suspension to fully loaded is not great - possibly 1.5" - better be safe with say 2".

Regards

John


John Turner (Midget & MGB)

John
It looks from your picture that you also have the PM negative camber trunnions. Did you not find the solid metal bushes made the ride too hard for a road car. I reverted to the standard trunnions with poly bushes, as my dental bill was already too high.

Dave
Dave Barrow

Dave, I'm fitting solid trunnions too, though not Peter May ones.

Was it really that hard?

AndyB
a borris

And how have you maintained the neg camber?

I thought this was the only reliable way of doing it (solid trunnions and neg camber).

I want firmer not rock hard, so would be interested in an alternative.

AndyB
a borris

Why can't you use offset trunnions and poly bushings?
Trevor Jessie

Dave Barrow, Yes the ride is hard but my car is only used for sprints and hill climbs.

Trevor Jessie, Yes you can use offset trunnions and poly bushes - I cannot comment on which approach is the best

John
John Turner (Midget & MGB)

you can keep std trunnions, with offset poly or nylatron bushes. You rotate the bush to get different amounts of neg camber.
David Smith

Andy B
Yes the ride was that hard, so I decided not to bother with negative camber, my midget does not suffer from understeer, and the road surfaces around here are pretty bad at the moment.
Might ask PM some time if it is possible to remove the solid bushes from the negative camber trunnions, and give them another go with poly bushes. Not sure if this is recommended, or if not, why not.

Dave
Dave Barrow

That's a very good idea, (removing the solid bushes).

If I find the ride is too hard and and go to poly bushes, will see if I can convert the neg camber solid trunnions to poly at the same time.

Got them very cheap on Ebay!

AndyB
a borris

Cotter pins must always be hammered in place. This is true of Spridget suspensions, british bicycles and anything else that uses this method to lock two pieces of metal together. The nut is only there to ensure that the cotter does not come out due to vibration. the threads are not strong enough to pull the cotter into place. Any attempt to do this will strip the threads. I know from expirience. taking the cotters out is worse. The only tip I can give it to leave the nut on the cotter when you start hammering away at the cotter to remove it. Just back it iff untill its on the end of the threads. this will prevent the threded portion of the cotter from mushrooming. If it doesn't come out in two stiff blows of a hammer you're screwed. Then its time to start drilling it out. They make the cotters out of a fairly soft metal so it deforms easily. The lower trunion pin is hardened steal. I have cut through one in order to dismantle a suspension once. It took forever with a hacksaw. has anyone tried using antiseez on the cotter yet? I havent tried that yet but i was thinking maybe it could save me a migrane later on
S.A. Jones

I disagree. I still have a Raleigh Grand Prix that came with cottered cranks. A hammer should never be used with one of these. If the pin is properly clean and straight and lubed, the threads are more than adequate. Using a hammer will compromise those lovely bearings you just went to all that work to make happy.
David "Finesse is your friend" Lieb
David Lieb

With all respect david, I am sure that a well cared for raleigh wil be a joy to work on. I worked at a bike co-op and I loved working on the british stuff (no one else would touch it). In those situations all the bikes are in roughly the same sahpe as my car, if not worse. I.E. all in varied states of disrepair plenty of rust abuse etc. Most had bent crank arms and it was a pain to get those apart.
S.A. Jones

This thread was discussed between 17/02/2009 and 03/03/2009

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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