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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - funny noises on a 1500 - solved!

The 1980 midget 1500 that I bought last night had a few annoying noises, I thought I'd retell my findings here in case anyone else has similar.

1 - squeaking from rear hub area. It sounded like brakes rubbing, but was caused by incorrectly fitted springs that retain the rear brake shoes, the one that goes across the top of the hub between the shoes was fitted wrongly and was catching the hub. Solution - fit springs correctly and noise gone!

2 - (the biggy) this was a sqeakingg, rattling, vibrating sound that came from the front passenger side & footwell area. I originally thought exhaust catching body, but it wasn't, then I thought maybe the engine and/or gearbox mounts had gone soft or failed as the noise was mainly there on overrun or decelleration, this also made me wonder about the condition of the diff. I also thought that maybe the clutch release bearing had gone. All pretty big jobs. However on looking at the propshaft, especially the front u/j, I thought I'd have a look at that first. I removed the propshaft and I've never, ever seen a u/j in such bad shape, there was so much play and wear in it, I couldn't believe that it hadn't failed.

I found another good propshaft in my spares shed, fitted it and the car is transformed. I'm not exaggerating, it feels so much smoother, drives with no rattles, squeaks or vibrations.

Moral of the story, check the u/j's.

Hope this may be of help to someone.

John
John Collins

Good news, John! Somebody really let that UJ deteriorate, didn't they? I've done my UJs, but the worst part was a worn journal on the rear one that had lost its little rollers. Nice to hear you've gotten it sorted!

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

If you need another one John, I never did cannibalise the one Will gave me. I'm sure he woudnt mind.
Bill

they really are tough little cars, they can take a real beating

prop
Prop

Thaks for comments, I've noticed some mis-spellings in my post as well as the fact that it says that I bought it last night! it was actually last week.

New (2nd hand) prop shaft seems to have sorted it totally.

Worst thing was trying to get the job done, outside in the cold before dark!

I got home from school at 4:30 and got the old propshaft off by 5, couldnt get u/j's out of old shaft, so found 2nd hand shaft in the shed and refitted that one in darkness with light from security lights and lead lamps!

Just need to fit additional oil feed pipe to cylinder head and try to work out why the instrument lights dont work at all! then its all done and I can get back to the blue car.

John


John Collins

John

hadn't you better amend the '1964 Midget' bit? ;o)

As for the panel lights...have you tried the switch?

...in the 'off' position, faulty or disconnected?

I've always thought that the panel light switch was rather unnecessary. Its only real use is when parking the car with 'parking' lights on. How often does that happen?

I've thought about removing mine and fitting a hazard warning light switch in its place, as these weren't fitted to UK models until late '73.

I've also often wondered why MGBs had a panel light dimmer switch. They need to be brighter, not dimmer!
Dave O'Neill 2

Point taken Dave, have sorted 1st part!

as for panel lights, I agree, i see no reason for that switch! I've tried another switch, but that may be no good either! will test voltage at switch over the weekend.

I agree with brighter not dimmer on mgb!

John


John Collins

John, I have that exact sound on my '79 and by coincidence weather permitting was going to trake a look this weekend. I'd tended towards thinking gearbox mounts, but first port of call will now be propshaft. Mind I know it's not as rusty as yours, oil leaks do have some advantages.
Paul
Paulgertie

For what it's worth, you can get a nice view of the 1500 propshaft front flange just by removing the gearstick boot and draft seal. This should let you have a quick look at the thing without crawling underneath, and you can easily check for play by rolling the car forward and back with the tranny in gear to see if the front UJ yokes move relative to one another.

And again with the old mantra... be sure to mark all components so they go back together the same way they came apart. Don't use a felt pen like I did... file notches. Ink rubs off. I got my rear UJ put back together 180° out because I obliterated my ink marks getting it apart, and didn't have a clue afterward.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Prop: Say wha ??
Don

This thread was discussed between 21/02/2008 and 25/02/2008

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