MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - handbrake issues

Hopefully a quick question with an easy answer.

I have a 1974 rwa midget and am putting a k-series engine in it.

I've got a nice late midget 1500 axle with a 3.7 diff in it to fit. However, this has the later style handbrake mechanism. I've changed the cable for a 1500 cable with all rods etc, but don't seem to be able to get it adjusted right yet, it has too much movement at the handbrake lever in the car.

Am I missing something obvious? or is there any mods that need doing to fit this cable system?

Thanks
John


John Collins

Hi John, hope you're keeping well.
I had similar difficulties when I bought a new cable for my car. I don't know what causes it but I put it down to worn handbrake link levers in the drum.
Anyway, my cure was to shorten the rod across the axle by removing the crimped nipple and brazing it back on 1" shorter. Worked fine and gave lots of scope for further adjustment as the cable stretched a little.
Bob T

Just hypothesizing here, but were the cable assemblies different lengths for wire wheel vs. steel wheel axles? Maybe you got the "other" one.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

John. Same thing on my old twin-cam car. New (correct type) cable for the 1500 axle but into a shell with 1275 rear bodywork. I T H I N K that the location of the bracket for the 2 large (5/8 or 11/16?) nuts for cable tension are about 1" different on the 2 shells. I welded another extra bracket an inch further forwards up the tunnel but stupidly didn't cut the old one off. Hard to get a spanner on it!

Bob's method sounds better. How about making the cross-rod adjustable?????
rob multi-sheds thomas

I made one of my rods out of S/S tubing, welded a nut on the ends, cut off the existing clevis ends, tapped & fitted. Having one of the rods adjustable is sufficient, i did the long one as it tended to bow.
Brad (Sprite IV 1380)

The late 1500 hundred cable doesn't use rods.

The body mounted bracket being in the wrong location relative to the lever could be the issue.
Dave O'Neill 2

I converted my Frogeye brakes to the later setup from a 75. I used the backing plates, cylinders and rods off of the later but retained the original cable and it works well. Normal adjustment and I don't have to pull the handbrake lever up very high.
Martin Washington

thanks for ideas,

Bob, good to hear from you, I've lost your website address, what is it now?

However, I'm with Dave on this as I dont think threaded rods will help me much as its the adjustment in the tunnel thats out.

I think I will have to make and weld a new bracket, possibly outside of the tunnel about 1"

beginning to wish I'd stuck with the right axle casing now!

John
John Collins

The late 1500 set-up is superior IMHO.

If it is an issue with the bracket position, it may be possible to use a wire-wheel cable, as that would be shorter.
Dave O'Neill 2

I've just ordered a wire wheel cable for a late 1500, so will see how I get on with that, I'll keep you posted.
John Collins

Interesting, John... looking at the photo you posted, the handbrake adjuster placement looks identical to what I've got on my '78. Funny your cable assembly didn't work. Seems like the wire-wheel cable would be too short if you've got steel wheels, as appears to be the case.

At any rate, let us know how the new cable works.

Cheers,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

This thread was discussed between 28/11/2009 and 30/11/2009

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.