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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Help Dismantling a Midget Windscreen

I have a spare midget windscreen that I am looking to dismantle, I am not too worried about minimal damage to the top and bottom rails of the frame but I do not wish to damage the glass as I am looking to sell the glass on (surplus to requirements).

Is there an easy way to do dismantle the sceen frame without damaging the glass at all ? A method I could use myself without resorting to windscreen fitting companies would be ideal.

I had thought of cutting through the bottom rail at the side pillars (since I intend to narrow the frame anyway) then spread the pillars to slide out the glass, but as mentioned before, I do not want to damage the glass and I fear this may happen if i choose to use that method.

Thanks in advance for any help.
R Whitmill

The frame is held together by a series of small countersunk screws through the top and bottom rails near to each corner. Undo these and prise the edge rails apart from the screen rubber to release the glass.

Alternatively, I have a dismantled screen frame and might be interested in an exchange for a complete windscreen if the glass is in good, scratch and chip free condition. MK11 Midget/ MKIII Sprite or later

Problem is you live at the wrong end of the country!
E-mail me if interested. Firstname DOT secondname AT tiscaliDOTcoDOTuk

Guy
Guy Weller

wow guy, that was quick !

So the screen is only fixed at the corners ? sounds similar to the vintage screens that I know more about, Midget screens are "too modern" to me in terms of dismantling.


The windscreen itself is for a 1275/1500, not sure on what MK though.. I picked the screen up a while ago with the express intention of using the frame for a project and when it came to dismantle it, I had no idea on how best to do it until your reply.

I'll have to get the screen out and get a photo over to you. It won't be until towards the end of next week until I get around to though as I have other things that need to be done first. As far as I know, there are no chips or scratches on the glass, but again, I will have to have a good look when I get to it to take the photo's.

Thanks again for the quick reply

R Whitmill

As far as I can recall, the frame can be dismantled by just undoing those screws. They go through the alloy frame and into small "L" shaped steel brackets on the inside (glass) edge There are 3 screws through the top rail at each side and I think 2 equivalent ones through the bottom rail. You may find the screw heads are buried beneath some sort of filler.

As for "swapping" frames it may not be that practical because of the transport problems. Particularly of yours with the glass still in it! The reason I have a dismantled frame is that I was planning on re-glazing it with brand new glass as a replacement to the one on my car. Although that one doesn't at first appear bad, it is completely covered all over in minute abrasions which when driving with the low winter sun scatter the light making it very difficult to see much at all!
Guy Weller

As Guy has described, 3 screws each side on top - threaded into alloy, 2 each side on bottom threaded into steel brackets - these are hidden by the bottom seal that goes onto the scuttle panel.

Need a good fitting screw driver, if they are seized best to drill off the heads to clear the holes - need as much left to remove later - more fun !

The side frames them slide outwards from the horizontal rails.

When refitting make sure new screws are not over length as these may touch glass and cause breakage.

R.
richard boobier

To add to what Richard said, the screws are posi-drive, not Phillips. They are also, as he said, likely to be frozen onto the steel L-shaped brackets inside.

When replacing the screws, pay close attention to the lengths of the ones you removed. There are two sizes and you don't want to mix them up. See items 16 and 17 in the picture below.

I ended up drilling most of them out. I re-tapped the holes in the brackets and used stainless steel screws as replacements. Also, save the rubber gasket to sell with the windshield. It may be better than a poor quality new one.

Lee


Lee Fox

WOW !!!

Talk about a wealth of info guys, THANK YOU.

I searched for a parts image like the one you have posted Lee but had no joy (google for ya !). I used to know so many parts suppliers names but now, alas, I have forgotten them so I can not look for the companies and thus the parts lists / catalogue images (with the exception of Brown & Gammons) over the net.

In relation to rebuilding/putting back together the windscreen, the frame is to be narrowed (by a fair amount)and a new, polycarbonate, screen is being fitted to aid weight loss.

ALL mounting screws are being replaced for longevity at the same time, but are they metric or imperial and where would they be obtainable ?.

I suspect that screws being "frozen / stuck / rusted" in, may just be age on top of thread locking compound.

Thanks guys
R Whitmill

The Moss paper or on-line/pdf catalogue is probably the best source for diagrams

www.moss-europe.co.uk

Screws are reasily available from all the usual suspects. - e.g. Moss or Sussex Classic car parts who I've always found incredibly helpful, particulalry for small orders with very reasonable postage.

When I rebuilt my screen last year I happened to be driving up the A14 so got the screws and glass from the MGOC shop nr Cambridge.

http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the glass unless you have a buyer already, as these are regularly on ebay and do not sell!! I myself have 3 spare if anyone wants one!
Mick - trying to sort the wiring

Hi all, just to digress a little bit - I'm about to try and fit a screen off a 1500cc midge on to an earlier 1275cc - other than the centre stay/mirror being different, will I have any problems fitting it? I'm hoping that the dimensions are the same...
Neal
N Broadbent

Neal,
Yes they are the same. The main thing that you need to watch for is that the screen isn't stressed as you tighten up the 2 fixing bolts at each side. There are usually shims at each side and you may have to swap these around a bit to get the right amount of packing so that the bolts don't pinch the side uprights inwards excessively.
Use the front angle of the quarter light frames to set the rake of the screen. You may also need to use some method of leverage on the side bolts to pull the screen down and compress the rubber seal where it sits on the scuttle.

Guy
Guy Weller

Guy, Mr Broadbent, in relation to the rubber scuttle / screen seal it is often found that heating the rubber with a hair drier (on high heat) from both sides softens the rubber, making it more malleable and thus easier to seat the screen than attempting to so so with a stone cold rubber seal.

Furthermore, the seal will seat a lot easier to the profile of the scuttle when warm than it would if fitted cold and thus effect a much more efficient seal.

All this was learnt when fitting a "MMM" windscreen with a new rubber seal and it certainly made life a lot easier . It will most certainly make life a heck of a lot easier with an older, hardened through age screen / scuttle rubber seal.

As an aside, another tip I picked up, years ago, is to apply a light coat of water resistant grease to the scuttle side of the seal (the side that seats on the scuttle)to help stop water ingress during extreme wet weather conditions with the same thing mentioned about the gaskets/seals for the pillars also. Not overly sure on the merits of it, but I do know I have used vaseline in the past to help stop water ingress and it has worked a treat, in the short term at least.
R Whitmill

Guy/RW - many thanks for your tips - they all really help tremendously. I may even wait for things to warm up a bit here in Lincs as the garage is a bit on the cool side at the mo',

thanks again - Neal
N Broadbent

Just coming up on doing the same with my car, so I've been searching for knowhow.

Here are some links to MGB windshield tips that may apply:
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_windscreen/
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_windscreen2/
granted, the B's is not just like our Midget's, but there's a lot of similarity in the construction.

and here are some tips I've been able to gather from various websites in the last couple of days

From LBCarco's website:

Windshield Replacement MG
Our Tech Tip this week is from Malcolm Eubanks.
I've recently replaced my windshield on my 79 MGB. The windshield frame to body seal was a serious challenge, when you have roll out the leading edge of the seal once on the car. I've read several ways to do this, but one seemed less of a chance of damage to the paint. You take a piece of strong rope about 1/8 inch thick and slip it into the folded over flap before lowering the windshield to the car, allowing extra to hang out the ends. Next get slight pressure on the middle attaching bolts. Then simply start at one end and pull the string out toward the front of the car and see how easy the seal comes out. Be sure to hold the other end of the string too. Job done with no problems. Boy if all things were this simple, life would be a breeze. But if you wanted that, you would not be working on an MG in the first place.

Installing a New Windshield
Our Tech Tip this week is from Penny Ploughman.
After struggling with the soapy water method for easing the install of a new windshield to body seal on my 1973 MGB, I decided to try an all-vegetable cooking spray (in this case Mazola) and the seal slid right in! Remember never use a petroleum based product on rubber seals -- it makes them swell and deteriorate.

And here is a screw trick from an industry website called Glasslinks.com:
http://www.glasslinks.com/tips/mgbframe.htm

Hope this is helpful (and not all a repeat of what's already been said above!).

":o)

cheers,
Norm


Norm Kerr

This thread was discussed between 10/01/2010 and 12/01/2010

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