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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - ignition light and other stuff!

Hi again guys! My red ignition light fickers when the car is ticking over but goes out once im traveling? should i be worried?

what should the car be ticking over at? mines 500/600rpm.


oh and have replaced the spax units and the pad bushes on my rear sus, first one took about 10hours and my stress levels were through the roof; second took about 2 hours after following onno's instructions! thanks.


s j knox

Idle at 800/900 rpm sounds better for a std engine.
Idle that low can give cam wear issues.

The ignition light should go off then as well.

Good to hear the spaxes are fitted
Now start with them on the softest setting as for good handeling the rear should be softer than the front
Onno Könemann

surprised the MOT guy passed those cable ties on the brake pipes... my tester's a stickler for using metal bands as originally fitted...

nice shocks though!
David Cox

with respect your tester's either an anal concours merchant or a clown. I'd find another tester.
David Smith

LOL took the words out of my mouth Smiffy! :)
Bob Turbo Midget England

Well once its passed the manx test no more worries about an mot! i can drive it until it falls apart if i want! silly rules over here! but hey when in rome....

oh do those bolts on the u-brackets have a torque setting? or do you just kepps going till you run out of thread?
s j knox

Steve, do U-bolts tight but not OTT,

tighten one bolt a bit both sides evenly then the other U-bolt and back to first bolt and so on

not moaning now (for a change) just commenting - wouldn't it be better if the adjuster knob faced the other way so you can reach under to adjust with the wheel on(?) it'll get very mucky under there anyway it faces so will need the occassional clean and lube to keep working (as I've found)

also I know you intend to replace the Spax but really things like suspension components, brakes, tyres are best replaced both sides together

tie-wraps on my pipes too and without the hose pipe sleeving
N Atkins

Hi nigle! the info i received said put the knob at the back so i did, it is easier if facing forward! Both sides are done but couldn't do them at the same time as i hadn't a clue and first one went a bit wrong until onno pulled me out of a hole! As for changing rear sus back to original that will have to wait now as the spax cost about £160 for the pair!

oh and why i asked about torque setting was that the guy at the manx test centre said they needed to be tighter! not really sure what he meant cos they were bloody tight, anyway back in for the test on thursday and hopefully get some pics on here!

cheers guys
s j knox

many apologises Steve for some reason I thought I'd picked up on another thread you'd only bought one

there must be a reason why they fit that way round but it means you'll need very long arms to get at it with the wheels on

personally I'd have them set very soft to start with and move on 1 or 2 clicks harder at a time until it's just too hard and move back 1 or 2 off that

with those bracket you'd probably also be able to fit the AVO units

you don't want those u-bolts loose at all or the back can wingle a bit plus things selttle so they may need nipping up a bit, check at 6 and 12 month services, they'll probably fully settle after 6-12 months

mechanics tend to have popeye forearms so able to go beyond what ordinary moral can (or sometimes beyond what's desirable)

I hope you've keep a copy of my usual advice as you may want to reference it once you pass the test :)

AVO rear r/h/s, more uprigh as they go onto rubber axle strap top mountng brackets


N Atkins

thanks!welcome anytime on any thread! you will be glad to know i am now the proud owner of a mg midget handbook or what ever its called! well back to my carbs! my front carb seems out of sink with my back one, front cylinder thing inside is dropping faster than rear one! i've done the tube thing to listen and the front one is making a popping kind of noise(like hanibal lector) and rear one is a steady hiss!
s j knox

they're actually called Drivers Handbook but no one picks me up on that :)

now you've got one you need to read it too, pages 47-9 :)

part joke there

you need to post another thread for this or have a look at these videos, the principles are the same

I assume you've got sufficient oil in the dashpot dampers (see owners book page 47)

http://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd#p/u/13/4nvGLgO6pj0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xH_h44FQdXE

(and shhhh, there's not a listed 36,000 mile service but again as few read the Handbook they don't notice that either)
N Atkins

This thread was discussed on 12/07/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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