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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Indicator Warning Lighs - Mk III Midget

Finally removed the speedometer which it turns out had become "glued" in with the mastic that the previous owner had used to seal the chrome ring to the body. What a fight - sadly a bit of damage to the dashboard paint. As there was now access I decided to repair the green lens of the indicator warning repeater that had slipped from its proper place and was allowing white light to show. After much torn skin and blood I managed to remove the unit holding the bulbs and was very surprised with what I found as far as the bulb shrouds were concerned (see picture). I have searched through all the references I have, handbook, workshop manual, supplier parts lists etc. and I can find no clear indication of what should be there. What I found appears to be cobbled together from a piece of orange tubing with a piece of shaped black rubber to hold the green glass lens. The only reference I could find, in a Sussex MG Parts list dated 1993, was AAU 4824 which could be the part(s) in question. I would appreciate it very much if anyone could confirm that the parts in the picture are not original and any experience of obtaining / making replacements.

Many thanks



Ray Rowsell

Unless you want to retain originality I would suggest that you drill out the "pointy" holes and insert round indicator units from a 1500. You will also have to change the bulb holders. The advantage is that you will now actually be able to see the lights indicating.
Geoff Mears

Parts 48, 49 and 50.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/electrical/switches-controls/fascia-column-switches-sprite-midget-1275-1500cc.html

Rob
MG Moneypit

Unfortunately, all NCA

The ones you took off are genuine.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Yep they're originals.
Mine did exactly the same (it was the left one). When the dash was repainted they were very carefully reassembled so there was only the green filter showing.
It lasted for about 6 months before slipping back into its favoured position so suggest (if you're not planning on removing the dash again in the near future), a quick dab of super glue or equivalent to hold the damn thing permanently in position.

As an aside, isn't the Moss (or its predecessor from M&G International) parts catalogue is a real boon when it comes to seeing how parts are aligned/assembled? I wish all parts catalogues were as useful.
Jeremy MkIII

Thanks everyone. I am amazed (again!!) that they are original. I will probably refit them but with led bulbs. I need to look at the lens again as they are not very good for letting the light through. They seem rough on the back and I am wondering if this is a build up of dirt. When I have a moment I will have a good look. I am sure this is a "take you time job" as everything is so easily breakable. I will probably go the superglue route although that will need some planning as I am doing the job with the dash in place.

Jeremy. I moved home 18 months ago and I have not seen my Moss catalogue since. It must be in one of the boxes still to be unpacked! However, I did find my Moss tuning parts catalogue!

Thanks again everyone.

Ray
Ray Rowsell

The plastic screw cap of a semi skimmed milk container is just about the right translucency for making replacement green lenses. On my Austin Sprite it has arrows for left and right stamped out of the dash. These now indicate semi-skimmed to the right and full skimmed to the left.
GuyW

The green lenses do seem to get dirty. They do let a lot of light through when clean.
Dave O'Neill 2

That's a useful tip, Guy! I am always looking for everyday items that can be repurposed...Dave
David Cox

Ray, I have spare bits that are a lot better than those in the pic. Drop me a mail if you want to stay original!
mgsmithy on yahoocook with 2 dots in the right place.
David Smith

Ray,
if you use good quality LEDs then they will shine through your existing or replacements. Best to use good quality LEDs in the four indicators lenses too to get a full set of 6 LEDs to complete the circuit. You'll also need a LED flasher unit too.

I've seen that the following work well -

telltales - E10 MES White Screw in type, 1 LED type is same size as original bulbs -
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/dash-board-panel-lamp-bulbs-shop.php

indicator bulbs - Part No. 2, 12v 21w AMBER BA15s -
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/flashing-indicator-bulbs-shop.php

LED compatible Flasher Units, Part No. 2 -
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/flasher-units-shop.php
Nigel Atkins

Thank you everyone,

Nigel, I hadn't considered the consequences of my simple statement "I will probably refit them but with LED bulbs." I will give it some thought but, if I can get enough light through the lens, I will stay conventional.

David, Many thanks for the kind offer. If I stay original I will be in touch.

Guy, I love the milk cap idea and I will use this as my bench mark for comparison.


I am going to experiment by replacing the orange tube with one that has a polished interior to see if this affects the amount of light to the lens suitably cleaned.

Ray
Ray Rowsell

Ray,
LEDs do seem to work best in full sets despite the many one only bulb comparison you can see offered up, though these may well still offer valid illustrations.

Bear in mind with a standard bulb the amount of heat that comes off even a small 2.2w with your polished tubes and their method of fixing. Light is the by-product of the bulb compared to the heat, too much localised heat won't necessarily help the bulbs and fittings, although the dash offers a very large area to dissipate the heat and the dash bulbs seem to last very many years so perhaps I've over thought this. :)
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 21/04/2018 and 23/04/2018

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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