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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Indicators Not Working (Hazards OK)

The indicators on my 75 midget have suddenly stopped working, after re soldering a previous dodgy connector on the indicator switch the indicators still fail to work.

The hazards and all other lights, reversing lights etc are ok, so I have tried an old indicator switch that was changed due to a fault but the indicators still do not work.

In the Drivers Handbook an in line fuse is mentioned which looks like it is behind the instrument panel, but I cannot see the fuse under the dash to check if OK, but if this had blown the hazards surely would not work?

My last thought is the indicator flasher unit, but does this control the indicators and the hazards or just the indicators.

I am not brilliant with electrics so just hoping I may have missed something simple, or one of the above points may point to another problem.

Any thoughts please?
Tim Lynam

Re. indicators not working.

Your problem is almost certainly the hazard warning switch. The indicators are wired through the switch. Have a play with the switch - operate is a few times and squirt one shot of contact cleaner (or WD40) into it. Don't overdo the oil.

If that doesn't do the trick, try a replacement switch.

The in-line fuse (that is located behind the dash) feeds the hazard lights. That will not be the fault because, from what you say, your hazards are working.

Andy Hock

Thanks Andy, I will see if there is a problem with the switch, thanks for the info.
Tim Lynam

for the switch

(a can of electrical contact cleaner is something to keep in home or garage, available from places like Halfords)

disconnect the battery, always a good idea when messing with electrics but often not done (and I'm as guilty as most)

a quick light spray of the switch from top and bottom with it pushed on and off to offer a gap to inside then just work the switch on, then off, repeating 10 times say with the thin tube that comes with the spray blow from top and bottom gaps of switch to dry it out, the contctact cleaner disipates, leave say 10 minutes to fully dry out before reconnecting battery for live tests

if you can pop the switch out - it has lugs at the side to hold it to the dash and can be awkward to get out sometimes or first try others - then disconnect and check one at a time the connectors and wires they all need to be clean, secure, in themselves and when connected, and fully ptotected, wires and spades

clean waith spray or other stuff as required, if a good tight fit just taking them off and puting them back on a few times will hepl cleaning
Nigel Atkins

Further to Andy & Nigel's suggestions, the hazard switch was removed, contacts cleaned a good spray of WD40, reconnected but still no indicators, another fiddle with the switch and the indicators are back!

Many thanks, I would never have thought of looking there, looks like a new switch will be added to the shopping list of parts required.

Thanks Again.
Tim
Tim Lynam

Tim - I'm glad to hear that you've pinpointed the problem. One of my early Midget memories (must have been in 1978 - yikes!) was driving in central London late at night and finding that my indicators had stopped working. It freaked me out, my mental scar is still present and still not fully healed(!) Back then, and a few days after the incident, I discovered the 'fiddle with the hazard switch' solution. The actual problem seems to be insufficient contact pressure exerted by the switch spring/pivot - hence applying pressure to the front of the switch temporarily solves the problem. The Lucas switch is (just) functioning at the limit of its design (aren't ALL Lucas switches like that?).
Andy Hock

Tim,
wipe off the WD40 from the contacts

WD40 mainly disperses water and lubricates but I think it’s a barrier to electricery (unless I’m wrong) and isn’t that good as a penetrating/releasing fluid

whilst doing that check that all the spade connections fit firmly

lack of use of the car can even effect things like switches, like the horn and wipers if you don’t use the car much or never go out in the rain then these never get activated, the switches and items – same with hazards – so every month test all are working, easy way to do this is when using the car :) - and certainly well before an MoT to give you time to sort if they're not working

the WD40 I’d keep in the house for emergency use and/or a tiny can of it in the boot of the car for when you go away in the car

instead have in your garage (if unlike me you’re lucky enough to have a garage) the following to do a better job of things than WD40

· electrical contact cleaner

· (thin) spray lubricant
· dry spray lubricant
· penetrating/releasing fluid (such as PlusGas)
· silicone lubricant (for rubber and plastics)
· carb cleaning spray
· anti-seize assembly compound (like Copper Ease)
· electrical sealing/protecting products (go find)
· light oil (3-in-one type)
· all purpose grease (and gun)
· cheap small brushes - to apply Copper Ease, grease, ect.

personally I like the lubricating sprays with PTFE
Nigel Atkins

what Nigel said!

Also, besides operating all of the switches to keep their contacts clean, toot the horns once a month, as their contacts (internal to the horn) can (just like a switch) get a light surface corrosion/tarnish that reduces the horn's volume gradually over time. There is so much current passing through the horn that it will almost always make noise, but as the resistance increases due to lack of use, the output dB drops (this, I learned from an electrical engineer who works with horns for an OEM).


Norm

Norm Kerr

Norm,
that exactly what I meant but didn't put too well

horns and wipers if they're not used should be tested once a month along with all the car really - best way to do that is drive the car on say a 50 mile round trip to get everything moving and warmed up and tested

I'd seek out different country pubs about 25 miles away :)
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 03/06/2012 and 04/06/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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