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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - induction options

I am just wondering if people have changed the induction system for their midgets (ideally the 1500). the first thing i did was remove the filter housing and replaced the paper filters with chrome pancakes. I know the mini has loads of different options for HS4s and twin HS4s, such as stub stacks, stacks, K&N filters and chrome filters.

has anyone fitted something different?

cheers
Rich K

Ram pipes with filter socs
Onno Könemann

I've used K&N on my MGs

1275 Spridgets with the (very stubby) stub stacks and needed to change needles on car but not the other

I had the chrome SU pancake filters on a Triumph but personally didn't like them, seemed very noisy to me, I like the fit and forget of K&N (no need to clean for 50,000 miles for me)

The K&N and stub stacks give a nice sound in my opinion
Nigel Atkins

K&N - but check you get the right size!
rachmacb

K&N filters with stub stacks for me too. Fit a nd forget for several years as Nigel says and quite a nice sound (if you can hear them over all the other noise!)
Dave
D Brown

Or design a nice airbox
Or use one of the nice MED designs

Lot's of choise!
But comparing bang for the buck rampipes and socks are unbeatable
Onno Könemann

If you do fit socks, make sure they leave at least the diameter of the open end of the ram pipe between themselves and the pipe. Anything less will start to restrict air flow and remove most of the point of fitting them.

As for the stacks, this page shows what you're looking for, as there are many different versions out there.


S Overy

i seem to be drawn to the ram pipes with socks.....them seem on par with K&N in terms of cost!

for those running rams and socks (ideally on the 1500) what needle are you using?
Rich K

Ahh the well known vizard page.
I have a pair of big flat alloy billet stacks that fit in the flat K&N and should be the best according to him (hs2) but no use to me as a weber is nicer ;)

I hope to gather some extra info on this subject as a friend is working on CFD models of air boxes.
I just have to model one for my future EFI setup...
Onno Könemann

I had these on my 1500 which gave great performance and sound.
Cleaned them every 1 or 2 years, very easy on maintanance.

Make sure you get ones that fit, the centre opening-ones didnt fit in my 1500 so had to go for these with a lower opening.


Arie de Best

Aire unless you're doing dirt racing or havesting or shows you didn't have to clean the filter until 50,000 miles (used to be 100,000 miles when I bought my first)

they start off red but soon go and remain grey as your photo and that's fine

K&N sell a cleaner and recharging pack that will bring them back to a nice red colour - but that would be more show than practical use for almost all
Nigel Atkins

LOL!! Nigel
No shows but road use and classic rallys(some times on dirt roads).
I hadnt cleaned it for several years until my MGparts-guy pointed me out I should do it as it doesnt take much work/time.
So I did and was amazed how easy it was done and the amound of dirt that came off.
Natural-drying them and re-oil them was also a piece of cake and had clean fully breathable filters again.
Your right on the 50.000miles but its one of those maintanace jobs you like to do on a saturday when not in a hurry. :)

Ive got a K&N to put on my K now so I can get my K&N cleaningset out again. ;)
Arie de Best

Arie,

less time cleaning more time driving

from K&N UK website and where they now say 50,000 they used to say 100,000

The only advatage of being old is to know what went before when you were young, if you can remember that is

'If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.'
Nigel Atkins

i think i will go for some ram pipes. I have had a look, and there are clearly two types, long and stub.

i found these
http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=33143

and

http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=33144

Is there a difference that the length makes for a road car?
Rich K

you'd have to get a long filter to fit the first one of your links under - maybe need ot check for clearance tht way first. those grids in the pictures are worse than nothing, don't filter & get in the way.

I'm not sure there would be a difference between them on a road car, i'd take a guess at there being a difference at higher rpm, but no idea how much.

I ran these

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33713

inside K&N filters on a pair of 1 1/2s from a 1979 MGB on my A series. Was fuelled perfectly according to the man at the rolling road (Minimaster Penrith) and made 75 hp at the fly with those, an LCB and a self modified head.

That engine is now in dad's midget, and goes a lot better than the standard A he had in there before.

Rob Armstrong

Use the ones rob linked to for inside a k&n filter
Don't use the ones with gauze as rob says they are terrible
These
http://www.pipercross.net/competition/products_rampipes.asp are great in combo with a filtersock or deep k&n
Onno Könemann

I am considering using these inside a 63mm deep K&N filter:

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalogue/ancillaries/med-stub-stacks

Doug Plumb

Doug

They look great and seem to have the correct form tested most efficient by Vizard.

What size do you want them for?
I have a pair simulair stacks (and an other very good filter with built in stack) with a pair of flowed HS2 carbs you could buy from me.
I am at M50 and would be happy with a donation for hotel and dining costs ;)

if intrested mail me at onno%%konemann.eu (replace the %% with @)
Onno Könemann

Onno,

Thanks for the kind offer but I am changing to a single HIF44.

The sub stack is part of my planned 'Project Utopia' which will include a performance modified HIF44, Maniflow inlet, K&N 569135 and MED sub stack. My engine has been set up by Peter Baldwin and currently gives 85 bhp and achieves 39-40 mpg on long journeys. The aim of the upgrade is to see if the often claimed improvements to both power and full consumption can be achieved.

In order to give a fair comparison of the upgrade, I aim to do a back to back test by running up the current set up on the rolling road before changing the carb and repeating the rolling road session.

The upgrade will probably not be completed until later in the year due to the busy Midget season ahead [MGCC European Event at Spa, Midget 50, Silverstone Classic] but will enable a long road test [~2000 miles] to the Treffen Altmuhltal in Bavaria in September.

Doug
Doug Plumb

This thread was discussed between 11/04/2011 and 15/04/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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