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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Later 'Midget' shaped cars only

Has anybody converted an all metal later Spridget to a Frogeye/Bugeye Style hinged front end ?
Malc Gilliver

Do you mean a Frogeye steel bonnet (rear hinged) or a front-hinged fibreglass bonnet?

I've converted a later RWA to an Ashley front, originally intended for a Frogeye.

What is it that you need to know?





Dave O'Neill 2

Hi Dave,

No I want to convert my existing metal wings and bonnet to a flip front
Malc Gilliver

I've never attempted or even thought about it Malc.

But, I guess you'd weld/bolt the two wings, bonnet, and valence together, and add a bit more steel to the structure for rigidity. A couple of clips, maybe like Spitfires, on the wings adjacent to the A posts. Bonnet would lock as is now; do away with safety catch as not needed due to weight.

I can't visualise how the valance would separate from the chassis though.

Maybe leave the valance as is, but decouple the fronts of the wings from it, and fabricate a 'seat' for the fronts of the wings to clip into, when the whole thing is lowered/closed.

Two wings and the bonnet, without the valance connected, would be lighter and easier to lift, than a frog front end. But the fronts of wings, a bit 'flimsy' when raised.

Yep, I think that's doable. I quite like the idea myself.

But, --- why? More/better access?

Hmmmm. Maybe instead if getting another old banger to play with, I'll play with the Sprite I've already got. 🤣🤣



anamnesis

Yeah, better access is the biggest part !

I think a better soloution might be leave the bonnet as is, then make the wings and valance tilt - failing that, possibly a quick release wings and valance setup.

The key, IMO is get ny head around separating the radiator from the valance, then add a metal cross brace across the bulkhead to hold the back edges of the wings, then maybe four locating/locking points.

Things have been slower than I'd like with the car, some of that has been getting my 50 body in to the right shape to go under the bonnet and over the wing, I think the next job will be replace the bonnet hinge bolts with studs to make removing the bonnet easier
Malc Gilliver

Of course, someone has already done it !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLrY9ARVBYg
Malc Gilliver

I find it odd he added the pivot below the chassis rails when the front bumper mounts satisfy the pivot position requirement, I used the front ones for the support frame for my fibreglass bonnet, see image. There is also information in the archive about front hinge conversions for the steel bonnet.


David Billington

Jag engined Spridget. That'd be 'nippy'. 😂. Everything's always been done before by someone Malc. Lol. Unless you're he first. Lol.

My thinking was right. Weld wings to bonnet to valance. But a stripped out valance.

I'm torn about front hinge flip vs rear hinge lift. Every car I've had with a front hinge bonnet, gives me back ache. There are many times when side only access is a 'pain' I find. I like to be able to get in front too.

So I'd favour the original frog lift personally. But I think I'd find a way to leave the valance in situ, to give better head clearance when leaning in from the front.

As you say David, plenty in the archives, but I can't find anyone who has 'rear hinged' the entire front end. A chance to be FIRST. 😅



anamnesis

I think for front hinge to work well for access you really need the inner wings/mudguards to lift with the bonnet. Think Herald. My brother had one and working on suspension was a breeze and you could sit on the wheel to do some engine work with your feet behind the wheel.

Trev
T Mason

In the early 70's I had a mk3 Sprite with a fibreglass front hinged one piece front. Although you worked from the side it still meant that the radiator, say, was much easier to remove. Of course fibreglass is much lighter but a metal front would be much heavier - the frogeye front is quite a weight to open (hinged at the scuttle).
Bill Bretherton

I have a front hinged one piece GRP midget, for serious maintenance take out the two hinge bolts and disconnect a wiring loom connector and it detatches completely giving full access to everything. I expect similar could be done with steel although as Bill says it would be heavier and need more of a framework to avoid distortion. I also trimmed my inner wings back to stop them catching.
AdrianR

This thread was discussed between 26/10/2023 and 31/10/2023

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.