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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Oil for rear diff

Brand to refill after draining please..I use Castrol 20/50w in the engine,and summat synthetic in the new 5spd box...what should I use for the diff?

Thanks y'all
Ross
Ross Adams

Diff/axle..Ive never serviced a car before..this is the start.......
Ross Adams

Ross what model and year?

how long have you had the car?

sounds like you've not owned a classic before?
N Atkins

Castrol EPX80/90
N Atkins

Yep..you got it..its my 1st Classic.... 1275cc MKIV Sprite....1968..quite bitsa..but honest under the hood ,save the 5 spd box

I got into this coz I wanted to get occupied and dirty as well as the 'look'. I always smiled when I saw old cars as a kid...
Ross Adams

I had a green '69 Spridget, my present midget has a type 9 box

if ytou could geyt your vehicle profile up it would help in future, if you can

if you've not seen it and want my 'usual advice to new owners' just say

for rear axle -

Although theres always debate about this nowadays youll be getting EP80/90, one example Castrol EPX80/90

(I might try fully synthetic 75w/90 next time, same as in type 9 box)

Plugs usually need either square male or 3/8 hex male sockets to remove them, the plugs dont go in far

rear axle oil change
(for all jobs) allow loads more time that you think it will take, never be in a rush
get the right tools to fit drain/fill plugs,
clean around both plugs and spray with a releasing fluid (which WD40 is not) as much in advance as possible,
have the axle oil as warm as possible before draining (protect yourself from hot oil),
take filler plug out first then drain (watch out for hot oil),
leave to drain as long as possible,
clean plugs and threads (plugs can go back in 'dry')
check axle breather is clean and clear,
refill with 3/4 of stated quantity of oil then top up very slowly until at bottom of threads leave excess to run out (can take ages if you overfill)

unless the oil was very bad or there's a fault with the r/axle you'll not notice much, if any, difference with this oil change but if you do it now you know for sure it has been done and when and the old oil with give you a clue of former maintenance by comparing new with old oil and the condition of r/axle if old oil has metal bits in it

this job is often missed but is so cheap and easy I think it's worth doing every three years (topping up if required is every 6 months)
N Atkins

Had it for a year...fubar'd the Mowog box (I learnt double declutching the HARD way)...and currantly have a 62 Mog as well (utterly by accident..ebay plus booze )
Ross Adams

sorry got a feeling we might have 'spoke' before

was editing last post when it stopped me so forgive typos
N Atkins

Probably fella... Whats the best manual for refurb and repair of SU's.. The mogs has just started playing up badly its p1ss1ng fuel out of the float chamber.
Ross Adams

Ross, Haynes manual # 024 has 5 or 6 pages on SU carbs plus exploded diagrams etc. Pi55ing out the top of the float chamber is simply a sticking needle valve (or a bit of dirt in there). Take the float chanber lid off, clean and flush out, refit; if that doesn't fix it then a needle valve or a basic carb refurb kit from Burlen's will.
David Smith

This thread was discussed on 27/07/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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