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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear brakes

I've got my MOT approaching (end of July) and my rear brakes seem to have inherited a slight high pitched sound sometimes.... the fronts were replaced really recently but I haven't touched the back in a long time.

What should I expect when replacing the shoes? Any other parts needed? Any issues?

How long should it take?
Rich Amos (1330cc Blaze Red '72)

The amount of time needed to replace midget shoes is a decreasing exponential with experience: i.e. expect the 1st time to take you infinite minutes and the nth time no time at all. I'm down to about 1 miniute a side for actually getting the shoes out/in. Study where all the springs go and only strip one side at a time, then you've got the otherside as a mirrored reference. Remember that those springs go on the inside of the shoes.

good luck!
Nick

Nick

You're assuming that whoever fitted the shoes last time knew what they were doing ;o)
Dave O'Neill 2

Thats actually a f***king good point, because on mine the first time the shoes were in upside down.

Ok then, Rich, points to note and main procedure:

1) The 'blank' bit of the shoes is the leading edge, so for forward rotation on say the driver side, the blank bits would be top right and bottom left. get this wrong and your shoes will jam (don't ask....)

2) build up your shoes with the top spring inside and then fit to the back plates with the handbrake lever bit going into the allocated hole in the rear shoe. Now manouver the tops into their position in the cylinders. Now the trickey bit: add the bottom spring into the inside of the shoes using your fifth, sixth and seventh hands. When in, spread the shoes to keep tension in the springs so they dont drop out again and stretch the bottom of the shoes over the adjuster. When it snaps over, the space at the top due to the cylinders and the bottom ue to the adjuster will be enoguh to keep everything in place. Now wriggle your drum over to fettle everything into place. Now do the other side. Press the brakes a few times to align everything and adjust the shoes and hand brake (takes a bit of playing around and compromising tension in one from the other). You're aiming for a slight drag with the handbrake off and it it rock solid after 4 clicks on the lever. MOT man may say 3, but thats dream world for a midget in my experience.

can't be bothered to re-read this so I hope it makes sense!


Nick

Spot on!

You might have said 'first wind the adjusters all the way out - until they lose their 'lumpiness'; the drum will come off easier and go back on over new shoes.'

A
Anthony

you forgot the swearing when you catch your fingers under that spring pressure - don't worry you have 6 other hands :)
Will Munns

Fantastic guide, thank you so much.
Rich Amos (1330cc Blaze Red '72)

I tend to adjust mine up a couple of flats for the MOT and then back them off again afterwards for fuel economy.

There is also a bit of a trick in getting the adjuster position spot on dead centre on the flat, allowing for lash in the brake adjuster tool and the adjuster pin.
Guy Weller

I did exactly that last year Guy - "advisory" was that the rear brakes were dragging!

Isn't it frustrating when the adjuster is dead on a flat and the brakes are pretty well locked, you back off to the previous flat and the drum seems to rotate with very little friction. If only there was a better way!

Is there.....?
Steve Clark

Yeah, a rear disk conversion maybe!
Nick

John Platt's version of this is to have shoes made "bespoke" by a manufacturer that can obtain and use shoe material of the original 'Factory' thickness instead of the normal 3mm thickness in current use.

I understand he gets them at something closer to 5mm and they stay in "adjustment" a whole lot longer and I presume the issues of "not quite too much/not quite- not enough" become lesser.

Unfortunately John is away at the Treffen this week/weekend so can't be approached to find out where he goes...

I understand they are rather more than the price from the usual suspects though

If I remember I'll ask him when I get back from foreign climes next week...

I remember reading an item in Mascot ages ago.
Bill

I have front mini competition shoes which are thicker than Midget shoes (as well as being a bit wider)
John Collinson

From where, John? Minispares?
Steve Clark

Terry at JRT in Chesham does mini competition rears (same as Midget) about 40 quid a set IIRC. I have a set still waiting to be tested...
David Smith

I've got mintex rivited shoes from peter may. Haven't noticed a huge difference to be honest.
Nick

Yes, minispares.
John Collinson

Rich
Try a comapany called QUESTMEAD they are Mintex agents for the UK, they have a website for the contact details. They will make up shoes to your specification, for example they made up competion lined shoes for me ; I wanted bonded linings (so no rivets to grind into the drums if you dont catch it in time !!) they recomended bonded linings but with two rivets in the middle as a good compromise, as they find some linings will occasionally detach with v heavy braking.
They are also slightly cheaper than other suppliers (ie Minisport) but be warned its still £45/50 a set.
The linings are also thicker, could be 5mm, than the cheap standard stuff you can buy off the shelf from your local supplier, halfrauds, etc.

Ian
Ian Webb '73 GAN5

One tip I have worked out recentlyis, instead of making sketches and or forgetting how stuff goes together, just take a pic on your mobile phone and stick it back in your pocket for future use! Also works on specials boards in restaurants!

Cheers
Neil
Neil Williams

This thread was discussed between 10/06/2008 and 12/06/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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