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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Relays
| I've just got myself a brand new pair of Wipac halogen headlights.(it says 60/65w on the box but I'm sure they mean 60/55), Anyway I understand that it's a good idea to incorporate a relay into the circuit. Not knowing too much about relays, I see that Moss offers either a 2 relay or 4 relay kit for this application. In the case of headlamps, does this mean that you would need a minimum of 2 relays, one for the dipped headlight circuit and one for the full beam? Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| Well the new lamps you have purchased will take no more current (power) than the original, Therefore the original circuit ought to be adequate. But that said no bad thing to fit a relay or 2 Getting the most benefit from relays requires 2 to be fitted. |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Bob, Are you saying one relay for the dipped circuit and one for the full beam? Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| There is an argument that even with standard lights, relays can produce increased light output due to eliminating voltage drops throughout the original circuit/old switches. Have a look at Paul Hunt's MGB site http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#uprated |
| Dave O'Neill 2 |
| Hi Dave I too fitted the Wipac headlamps, with one relay, it only needs to go to the main beam supply wire so is only used when your using your high beam then when you dip your headlights you go back to the standard configaration which is quite adequate. As I remember I found a very good relay kit from Halfords at a reasonable price that has done the job well for the last 2 years(cheaper than Moss) I have found the Wipacs perform very well but you will probably need some steadys on the top to stop them vibrating. Good luck  |
| Rob Newt |
| Hi Dave Yes ideally if you acceot that a relay is an advantage then a relay on both the dip and main should be used. Very simple job to understand and do Install 2 relays near the front of the car with a seperate supply to each one direct from a fuse. 15 to 20 amps should be ample the output from each relay is to the main beam and the other to the dip. The coils of the relay should be simply wired to the existing circuit now supplying main and dip. |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| I fitted relays last year, wired as Bob describes. I don't think it is my imagination but there seems to be a longer pause when switching from dipped to main - just a nano-second of blackness! Actually it seems longer on the first switch if its been a while since I last used main. Almost as if the circuit is warming up or drying out. Not a problem, but enough to notice and make the heart skip a beat in case they don't come on again. |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| I have Wipac's fitted with no additional wiring and it's fine. The sharper beam pattern is the most noticeable advantage straight away! Steve |
| Steve Hipkiss |
| If you're replacing your existing headlights (and not fitting additional spot lights) and your wiring is not too old I think you don't need relays If your light switch is old then surely it's cheaper and easier to replace the switch than wire in relays(?) I'm not sure if you'd also need to include the panel light switch (I've bypassed mine anyway as I can't see the point of switching off panel lights) What use was the panel switch suppose to serve? I stress subject to your existing wiring being good and if you're adding spots a relay or relays might be worth adding |
| Nigel Atkins |
| It's not the wiring that's suspect, but all the connections in switches etc. best practice is to fit an alternator and get a (fused)cable from somewhere reliable such as the solenoid heavy enough to carry the current. Halogen lamps require over 13v go give their best output, hence the alternator. I was disappointed with the wipac quadoptic beam pattern and changed to Cibe - much better. |
| d cusworth |
| I believe the panel light switch was there so you could turn off panel lights when using the side lights as parking lights. Another option was the light that hooked over a window, with white/red lens to front/rear using a single bulb - these were sometimes left on all night when street parking, I guess a legal requirement. Colin |
| C Martin |
| This makes you think. I've got a new loom, original switch and uprated headlights (just halogen)but no relay. The Moss kit seems outrageously expensive (ebay and Maplin seem cheaper). I've got a relay on the replacement brake light switch as it kept blowing (now has a Mini mechanical one on the pedal box but still kept the relay). That's a great link to the MGB stuff Dave - thanks so I think I may be putting a pair on the hradlights. Jeremy |
| Jeremy 3 |
| I was assuming if your wiring wasn't too old then the connects would have also been replaced and agree that it only leaves the switches as they are partly cosmetic they may be original for patina look I've got an (uprated) alternator and Lucus flat front H4 headlights off standard wiring and am happy with the light and pattern Altho' I might upgrade to the Xenon Extreme Brilliance bulbs as the headlights units will need to come out soon (but only if the bulbs are on offer) |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Moss kit is mega Xpensive. I got my bits from Wiring Products Ltd. |
| A Anstead |
| The reason I added relays for the lights was because of the poor quality of the replacement column stalk switches available. Whilst the original Lucas lasted 35 years, the following 2 replacements lasted only 2 years apiece. So the relay is to avoid having high current flowing through sub-quality contacts. The main dash switch is fine - still the original nice-acting toggle switch. |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| Guy re your moment of darkness problem is a very easy fix. Which relays do you have? How many connections are on the bases? |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Bob, from memory, just the basic 4-pin relays. But I am not going out in the rain to check just now - its a bit dricht today. |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| I agree with the comments that relays are primarily for protecting the (either old, and worn, or new, and suspect) switches. With the lesser, secondary benefit of taking the heavy load off of old wire connectors, in a tired wire harness about which one is not altogether full of confidence. Just for kicks, here is what I did when I installed a new wire harness in my midget (see the image attached): relays for all of the circuits that draw more than 2 Amps: high beams (50W) + driving lamp (50W) = (11A) fog lamp (50W) = (3.7A) stop lamps (3A) horns, big wind-tone (2.1A) low beams (31W) = (2.3A) starter solenoid (probably only a few milli-amps) the amperage readings above for each item are what I measured as actual draw, through the harness I skipped the wiper (2.2A) and washer (2.1A) because I ran out of space, and figured that the farther below 3A the circuit got the less benefit there was to using a relay. Plus they are not used so much in a car that I try not to get wet too often! To feed this, I ran a dedicated 44 strand wire (25.5A capacity) from the main power splice located just after the harness passes through the bulkhead so that there wouldn't be any visible difference under the hood (no real reason for this, it just seemed "tidy"), and a 25A fuse. If the lights are ever upgraded to 65W high/fog/driving / 55W low, this will still be quite sufficient to feed everything. I didn't measure the current draw of the starter solenoid, and so I sort of wonder whether I will see any benefit to adding the starter relay, but the 6th relay fit so nicely in the available space that I went ahead and did it anyway (the late model Rover minis adopted a relay for the starter, for instance). One option is to feed the low beam switch from the white wire going to the fuel pump, so that it automatically is powered off when the ignition is turned off (saves the battery from forgetful drivers). I confirmed that the gauge of the factory wiring is quite sufficient to feed 65W/55W (peak, OEM lamps allowed in modern cars today). The standard lights in these cars was 50/35W. If one were to install 100W/90W (the peak available in the after market), dedicated power feed wires would definitely be called for. This car has the 6-bar linkage for the bonnet hinges, so there was a nice, flat surface behind the dashboard to mount the relays to. Other years using the goose neck hinges would need to locate them somewhere else under there, I guess. Norm 'sparky' Kerr  |
| Norm Kerr |
| Guy, good point about the new stalk switch, luckily mine is old (if not original) |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Thank everyone for your advice. One question remains - where is the live feed to the relay taken off? Directly from battery, from starter solenoid or from the existing fuse box? I'm aware that it would have to be fused. Just to go off topic a bit regarding parking lights and harking back to the time when parked vehicles had to have some form of lighting on overnight, often in the form of a borrowed roadworks lamp (usually with"Wimpy" stamped into the lid) but also the little red and white combination light that you clipped to the offside window. At that time it was illegal to park your car at night on the wrong side of the road, i.e. facing oncoming traffic. However, it is quite common nowadays to see cars parked in that fashion and I was wondering if it is now legal. At least you can now pick-out their front reflective number plates before you hit them. Before that you had to rely on seeing their rear reflectors. Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| AFAIK it is still an offence to park off-side to the kerb at night without displaying lights, unless you are in a one-way street. Although it seems to be rarely enforced. |
| Dave O'Neill 2 |
| I seem to remember it is also illegal to park in any place (at any roadside!) that has a speed limit above 30mph without displaying lights, red to the rear and white to the front. I did have my relay powered from the solenoid's battery live supply but now have them fed by a blade fuse from my "live" fusebox (@ 15A, for now) |
| Bill 1 |
| Aye Bill. Maybe the Rozzers ought to take note - in my village the eejits park lights out, and you cant see them almost until its too late. |
| Deborah Evans |
| Hi Dave Matthews (I am a big fan of your music, by the way!) you can get your power feed from either the battery post, or the starter solenoid, as the wire to the solenoid is capable of carrying, hugely more than you'll ever need. you can also take it from the fuse box, but in that case, you want to verify that the wire gauge feeding that circuit is capable of carrying the total current draw plus your additional load: the brown, 44 strand wire from the solenoid to the power splice behind the dash board supplies all of the power to the car, and is capable of carrying 25.5A (the stock Lucas alternator output is 28 ~ 30A). the white wire supplies the coil, the alternator exciter light, the fuel pump and the green wire (most exterior lights, and the tach) = the total load on this circuit comes to approximately 12A the purple wire supplies the interior lights, horns, lighter, main beam headlights, brake warning switch, adding up to approximately 12A (15A is 65W main beams fitted) the red/greed wire feeds the dip beams, side lights and license plate lights, adding up to approximately 12A. the green/pink wire feeds the wiper, washer, heater fan and radio. Depending on the power draw of the radio fitted, this comes to, also, around 12A. So, if you are simply moving the power around (say, using a relay to switch on the main beams, but not increasing their power beyong 65W), then you can draw that power from the "purple" side of the #1 fuse and everything should be happy. |
| Norm Kerr |
| arrrrghhhh! it timed out before I could post my corrections!!! please ignore above, and see my improved version of my reply below: Hi Dave, you can get your power feed from either the battery post, or the starter solenoid, as the wire from the battery to the solenoid, and from the alternator to the solenoid are capable of carrying, hugely more than you'll ever need. you can also take it from the fuse box, but in that case, you want to verify that the wire gauge feeding that circuit is capable of carrying the total current draw plus your additional load: the brown, 44 strand wire from the solenoid to the power splice behind the dash board supplies all of the power to the car (other than the starter, and recharging the battery), and is capable of carrying 25.5A (the stock Lucas alternator output is 28 ~ 30A). the white wire supplies the coil, the alternator exciter light, the fuel pump and the green wire (most exterior lights, and the tach) = the total load on this circuit comes to approximately 12A the purple wire supplies the interior lights, horns, lighter, main beam headlights, brake warning switch, adding up to approximately 12A (15A if 65W main beams fitted) the red/greed wire feeds the side lights and license plate lights, adding up to approximately 5~6A. The dip beams are fed directly, with no fuse (brown -> ignition switch -> blue -> light switch -> blue/red) the green/pink wire feeds the wiper, washer, heater fan and radio. Depending on the power draw of the radio fitted (I assumed 80W total draw for it), this comes to around 12A. So, if you are simply moving the power around (say, using a relay to switch on the main beams, but not increasing their power draw beyond 65W), then you use the "purple" side of the #1 fuse and everything should be happy. In fact, in your case, if you do it that way, you don't even need to add a fuse, as that wire is already fused for 17A, and should comfortably feed your 65W main beams. However, if you add a relay to your dip beams, and take that power from the existing blue/red wire, the gauge of the wires will be fine with 55W, but you may want to add a fuse because this circuit is not fused from the factory (it is fed from the brown wire that goes to the ignition switch). Norm |
| Norm Kerr |
| Thanks Norm, A lot of useful information there. No connection with the Dave Matthews band I'm afraid - I wish!!! I Would be able to have a more up-market Spridget if that was the case. Bill, I take it that your "Live" fusebox is additional to the standard one? Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| yes But instead... This picture was taken during the tidying up operation Shown on the left is the "Ignition powered supply" on the right the "Battery live supply". This was while there were many wires to connect and a couple to remove completely, but shows the new set up being fitted. The right hand of the two reds on the right is my relay feeder wire and splits at the relay location to power three potential relays, two of which are in use now. Cooling fan and brake light switch circuits. My halogen headlights do not have relays fitted, so far all good after ten years in service.  |
| Bill 1 |
| I fitted 2 relays for hi and low beams but also for the stop light switch. I went through several of these and the relay solves that problem too. |
| Glenn Mallory |
| Guy I was secretly hoping you have 5 pin relays. :( A 4 pin relay uses 2 pins to connect the coil whilst the other form the switch which is open (off) when the relay is not on. This switch is normally called a contact and in this scenario it is classed as normally open. Thus when relay is not powered the contact is open and the circuit is off. If you get a 5 pin relay again 2 pins are for the coil. However the other 3 are far more interesting. One of the 3 pins is called common and is connected (Switched) to the other 2 depending whether the coil is powered or not. When the coil is not powered the common will be connected to one of the other 2 pins (this contact is called normally closed) When the coild is powered the this normally closed contact opens and the other pin becomes conected (This is called the normally open contact the same as the contact on the 4 pin relay. Now that sounds far more complicated than it is so if you have understood that the consider this. Imagine you had 2 five pin relays connected one to the main switch and one to the dip switch. Now connect the main lamps to the dip switch relay but on the normally closed contact. When the dip switch circuit is live the relay opens the contact and switch off the main lamps When the dip switch circuit is switched off then the main lamps will come on as the normally closed contact becomes closed. The dip lamps are then connected to the other relay in the same manner and work exactly the same. With your present system there is a moment when switching the dip switch causes both relays to be momentarily de energised (off) and the result is total darkness. Now using 5 pin relays connected as described you would find that when both relays were de-energised (OFF) both sets of lamps would be on. So momentarily instead of total darkness you would have both dip and main lamos on. A far better solution I hope you agree. If I were next to you with a pen and paper this would take about 5 seconds to simply understand. How difficult is language? |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Bob, Well done for writing it down! - That itself must have taken some effort. I don't understand from a first reading but will study that and try and convert it to a diagram. If I get the gist right, the point is that it can be wired for an overlap of lighting, rather than a gap between main and dipped. I have the relays plugged into one of those multi-terminal blocks, so if I can get my head around the wiring I can rewire and fit 5-pin relays instead. Can you supply the relevant pin numbers ? Guy |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| Yes if you got the relays let me simply see the drawing on the side. I do not have one to hand because I use industrial jobs. |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| much easier with 4-pin relays, isn't it? I started out trying to use 5-pin, gave up and adopted 4-pin instead. Norm |
| Norm Kerr |
| Norm, Do you get a moment of blackness when switching between the two ? |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| I have 3 4 pin relays One to feed the diped One to feed the main And one to feed the extra driving lamps I do not have at anny time when switching a moment of blackness. The switch gear is std mkII midget so toggle switch and foot operated dip switch. Though i was sceptial in earlyer threads about halogen and relays i now find it one of the best mods ever. |
| Onno Könemann |
| ""much easier with 4-pin relays, isn't it? "" No it isn't easier the wiring is identical it is just the description that is difficult |
| Bob Turbo Midget England |
| Maybe my delay - and it is very slight - is just poor quality and slow reacting relays? And it is more noticeable the first time of use each journey. Due to add my brake light relay thismorning. But now I am questioning the logic of this. I am about to arrange for one switch to operate a second to operate the brake lights. The idea, I think, was to protect the dubious-life contacts of the hydraulic switch from the high current direct to the brake lights. Let the relay take the strain. OK, but presumably I am going to be replacing relays instead in the future, and a quality relay cost pretty much the same as the hydraulic switch. So I've got to ask - what will I gain other than a bit of more complexity? |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| The relay should last considerably longer than a Chinese switch. |
| Dave O'Neill 2 |
| Hi I guess the thing that was complicated to me was wondering about how to avoid that moment of blackness when the power is switching from one terminal to the next, in the 5-pin. With a 4-pin I did have to daisy chain the power feed, which means that all of them get the same power all of the time, but it also meant that I had to find female connectors to install into the sockets that could take two pieces of wire that could handle the 25A total current. I did this with modern, thin wall wire, which is smaller gauge, but has the same current carrying capacity of the old, 44 strand wire. Norm |
| Norm Kerr |
| If using a 5-pin relay, make sure it is a change-over relay, as some 5-pins have two pins on the normally open contact. |
| Dave O'Neill 2 |
| Can't see a reason for a 'dark' period when changing from one beam to the other... - electricity flows at ~speed of light, i.e. a longer wire won't make any difference - any delay in a relay switching on is matched by its pair switching off - there's no 'black-spot' using the standard column switch... and this drives the relays; maybe you could modify this switch to have an overlap period (i.e. both circuits 'on' for a brief time) A |
| Anthony Cutler |
| I've got a 'dark spot' switching between dipped and main. I'm pretty sure it's the switch, I can hold it in the dark bit kind of between the two settings. Doesn't bother me as usual practice is to flick the main beam on (and off) so the dark doesn't happen. :) |
| Rob Armstrong |
| Am I confused - you bet I am. I've always been baffled by electrics, and my diminishing grey cell count doesn't help. What is the significance of the numbered contacts in the relay i.e. 30, 86, etc I assume contact 30 is the input contact - does 30 relate to amperage or what? Also what does the capacity of the live-feed wire need to be? (brown wire?) Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| Yes, I've often wondered why relays are numbered the way they are. It seems completely random to me. Here's a useful article on using relays for old cars - a Cortina Mk1 in this case. http://freespace.virgin.net/tommy.sandham/relays.htm |
| Mike Howlett |
| for numbers and more see: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html succes! Flip  |
| Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
| Dave, the numbers are just the names of the terminals, and are useful as a reference, but most relays are manufactured with a little schematic etched right into their housings to help. The red pencil sketch in Mike's post above shows it, in case your relay doesn't. As you can see, from that sketch (or the etching on your housing): terminals 30 and 87 are the "switched" ones (what you hook your driving light to its power source through). terminals 85 and 86 are the switch that controls the other two (what you hook your instrument panel switch to). On a 5-pin relay, the termial #87 has a brother, "#87a", if so, don't use 87a unless you have confirmed what it does and wired it accordingly. Mike's attachment also discusses wire size, which is decided by what the current draw is: a 28 strand wire (~16 gauge, in the US) has a 17.5A capacity, or 210W (multiply A x 12V). If your lights will add up to more than this, you must increase your power supply wire size to the next, 44 strand (14 gauge, in the US), which has 25A capacity, or 300W. To be on the safe side, if you are not sure how to size the wires in your harness, then run new wires of the correct gauge, from the battery, or from the +12V post on your starter solenoid. Norm |
| Norm Kerr |
| The darkness suffered by Guy is the result of both relays being de energised for a few moments. With 5 pin relays using Normally closed contacts as described these couple of moments of de energised relays means that both Main and Dip beams remain on and there is no black spot. Many slightly later cars were wired in such a way and you can see this when the dip switch is operated. However it is a little more complicated than I originally suggested as it requires actually 3 relays 1, 4pin and 2, 5pin. I have attached a quick drawing of how it could be wired and help the description. Relay 1 (Shown de energised) energises when the headlamps are switched on and provides power the the second and third relays Relay 2 (Shown de energised) is connected to the dip beam lamps, when it is de energised the dip beam lamps will be lit so the coil on this relay is connected to the main beam wire from the dip switch Relay 3 (Shown de energised) is connected to the main beam lamps again when it is de energised it will light the main beam lamps. So this relay coil is connected to the dip beam of the dip switch. Hence with the headlight switch on when dip is selected power is applied to the main beam relay which now being energised will switch off the main lamps. In this position there is not power applied to the dip relay so being de energised the dip lamps will be on! When the switch is moved to the main position the reverse is true and the dip lamps switch off and the main switch on. If during the switching process both relays lose power to their coils both dip and main lamps will be lit! Is that easy? LOL  |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Thanks for your help folks - it's becoming clearer now. There's some very useful links there. Just one thing - is it preferential to mount the relays as close to the headlights as possible, thus shortening the run of wiring carrying the greater current? (downstream of the relays) Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| Dave the relay position is irrelevent the power comes rom the battery along a wire, through the relay conact and to the lamp. The wire length is the same no matter where along the circuit the relay contact is installed? |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Bob, Are you suggesting that the wiring from relay to lights is of the same capacity as as that from battery to relay? As it stands, the wiring downstream of the relays as well as all the connections etc is probably old and tired, but will still be carrying full current to the upgraded halogens. Obviously, a new feed wire will be required from the battery to the relays, but should the rest of the circuit wiring be renewed/upgraded, and if so then what amperage should it be? Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| If you arrange for both dip and main to be on simultaneously then bear in mind the load you place on the common earth from the bulb/light unit - i.e. double its normal load. if its literally a few milli seconds as you change it shouldn't of course be an issue. Its always worried me that is exactly what happens if you flash the lights whilst on dip beam. The flash is fed from an alternative supply and doesn't remove the dip feed. (on a '73 columns talk anyway) Anyway I have a halogen conversion and spots and moved to relays a long time ago as a couple column stalks failed quickly on me. I went for the simple setup of a single relay for the Dip, one for the main and one for the spots. Can't say I've ever noticed a black spot whilst changing - but the persistence of the halogen bulb may be the reason. (Pic of my relays on the front bulkhead... http://www.eatworms.org.uk/album/Midget-Dash/PICT0171.JPG I also have relays and additional fuses for the Air horn, Fan and Accessories (Radio/Amp/Phone Cradle etc) http://www.eatworms.org.uk/album/Midget-Dash/PICT0170.JPG |
| Dean Smith ('73 RWA) |
| Although I raised the issue of the "black spot" I am not fully convinced that what I am experiencing is due to the manner of wiring the relays as such. As I mentioned the moment seems longer on the first occasion of switching from dipped to main (column stalk switch). It is like a slow blink, - long enough for the brain cell to just flip to there's something wrong panic mode. Thereafter the switch over is like a rapid blink; quite acceptable. So either my brain cell learns fast that the delay is nothing to worry about, or something changes in the switching on the first time of use. Maybe it is a bit of condensation on the switch contacts that delays things the first time and then evaporates off? |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| Dean, I notice from the photo of your lighting relays that the feed from switch to relay (yellow/blue in one instance)is quite a thin cable. The cables from relay to fuse box are much heavier. From the fusebox onwards to the lights have you retained the existing wiring set-up? Dave |
| D MATTHEWS |
| Dave, I broke into the orig loom just before the column multiplug for the dip and main feeds. Took the column switch output to drive the relays and return the new feed to the same place and hence use original loom wiring from there to the lights. I did it in the early 90's and was still keen to minimise obvious changes from standard. Much more has changed since then, and if i was doing fresh now I would probably have run new wires alongside the loom - but the original wiring if in good condition are good enough for a straight halogen swap. |
| Dean Smith ('73 RWA) |
| Hi Dave not sure of the confusion but the point I was trying to put across was that with relays the circuit is in 2 parts 1 low power to operate relay from switches. This is done with the original wiring which is more than adequate to operate the relay 2 the high power circuit. This is done with new wiring and all of this circuit is uprated. Regardless of where the relay is mounted, high power is derived from the fusebox/battery down a wire to the relay, through the relay and to the lamps. The wire after the relay handles the same current as the wire feeding the relay. I like Bill a couple of years ago fitted 2 new fuseboxes for ignition power and direct power. I did a lot of rewiring of circuits at the same time to ensure diversity for safety and ease of fault finding A couple of photos of my fuseboxes, mounted them on the bulkhead where the control box used to be. :)  |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
Here is the other one you can just see the boxes on the left mounted on the bulkhead
 |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| Hi Bob, Interesting location for the horns. Now why didn't I think of that! And what's the coil from? Guy |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| Guy you sound similar to me. I think my car has probably more modifications than most, but everytime I see a similar modification on another Spridget I always think why didn't I do it like that? My coil pack is a ford example |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| That position for the horns makes so much more sense than in the inaccessible location behind the grill, where they get all the weather thrown at them! I also noticed you were doing a clutch job at the time. Replacing a hose? ;-) |
| Guy Oneandahalf Sprites |
| No I have had issues with the clutch. I have modified it to a 7.5 inch job but my problem is oil leak from the rear. Tried to sort this with a seal kit that made the job worse as I fitted it without spacers (Didn't get the spacers or distructions. However removed engine again and machined the flywheel to clear the seal and tried again, still have a big leak. Almost fed up! |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| I have had the harness from VB in my TR6 for a few years and have been very happy with it. Easy to install, inexpensive, and works great. It is even on sale now. http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?page=137 I also have one that will be going in my Midget when I get to that point of the restoration project. |
| tomshobby |
This thread was discussed between 14/01/2011 and 27/01/2011
MG Midget and Sprite Technical index
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