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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - starter probs
just tried to start my 1979 1500cc midget after 3 years layup but it wont turn with the starter. pushed it down road and it worked. it just clicks when i turn ignition, took starter off and cannot see a problem but it seams to be a solnoid on the bulkhead that is clicking, wot next |
r j cathers |
Try rotating the square end to the starter shaft, maybe the commutator has oxidised from sitting or found a bad spot, then try to start it again. |
David Billington |
yep tried this and it turns no probs,but just clicks when i turn ignition on. |
r j cathers |
After being very sure that the car is not in gear and the brake is set, try shorting out the two large posts on the solenoid with a screwdriver (very carefully, there could be large sparks, etc. don't use your favorite screwdriver). If the starter works, your solenoid is wanting some attention. Alternatively, you could use one side of a set of jumper cables to go from the battery + post to the starter. David "I have another dead solenoid if you want to make a set..." Lieb |
David Lieb |
Check the engine ground strap as well. It could be loose and not grounded properly. Also check the cable ends for corrosion etc. That will stop you from starting as well. If you are jumping the solenoid switch, don't have your finger on the shank of the screwdriver either! |
Clive Reddin 76 Midget |
Are you sure your battery is good? if it isnt, you'll get the symptoms you describe. you can try jump starting it to see if it starts. My starter stopped working on my 1275 about 5 years ago. against everything i read, i pulled it, lubricated it, and put it back in. havent had a problem since. Don |
don g |
I just re-read this post and I concur with Don. How old is the battery? It could have a charge but not enough to turn the starter over. |
Clive Reddin 76 Midget |
teh cranking current can be a hundred amps or more...hence the fat cables of course...but high resistance will stop it dead and you'll hear nothing more that the solenoid clicking. |
dave c |
rj, any update? |
don g |
hi all thanks for the replies and advice, just back after a long weekend away so am now going to check battery. tried crossing the solenoid but just getting a click from solnoid so will try battery, again many thanks and i will post shortly as to my progsess, cheers ronnie |
r j cathers |
just got battery charged to 12v and it seams fine , i.e. bright h/lamps etc. but starter wont turn over, solnoid just clicks, crossed out solnoid with wrench but starter just whirrs. |
r j cathers |
start at the very beginning, it's a very good pla... Your battery should have at least 12.5 DC volts in it before you do anything else. If less than 12.5 get jump leads on the car with the donor car's engine running... The SS&NB MASC website has my instructions for battery testing in the technical advice area at: http://ssnbmasc.freezoka.com/index.html So to continue- Check inside the connections on your battery cables, live and earth, to make sure there is no serious voltage drop. Corrosion here is often difficult to see but will cause the maximum heartache. Scrape clean and enure there is good conductivity where the cables go into the clamp connections and onto the battery posts If OK go on to: Check the other ends of the cables where they reach the earth connection (check for rust at the body earth point) and the solenoid nuts, again checking inside the ends to make sure there is no corrosion. If OK go on to: check the screws that mount the solenoid to the body, rust here can reduce the willingness of the solenoid to "switch" power through it and check the other end of the solenoid to starter motor cable. Corrosion and looseness are your sworn enemies here. If the terminal on the starter feels a little loose where it is mounted to the body/endcap of the starter, you have an internal fault in the starter which will not allow full power operation of the starter. Check the earth strap under the bellhousing for tightness and security If OK go on to: remove the starter and check the action of the Bendix Gear make sure it rotates backwards when the starter turns under the action of inertia which is the force that makes it work and connect into the flywheel ring gear teeth If the gear resists running backwards under hand operation it is probably rusty or dirty and will never engage the ring gear like that Dirt and muck can often be cleared out of the bendix's grooves with a solvent*, do not oil it afterwards even though the temptation is to oil it after cleaning. Dont even trust WD40 to re-lubricate the thing *yes I use petrol but it needs to be carefully handled, better to use carbcleaner or brake parts cleaner aerosols for safety The phosphor bronze gear track is lifetime lubricated and will only collect dirt and dust if oil is added A few weeks of freedom will inevitably cease when muck starts to collect inside it all again If not OK you probably need a new starter £25 or so Most car spares shops can oblige ASK the shop to test the motor before you pay for it 12v with jump leads will be enough to make the starter whizz and the bendix slide backwards along its drive gear track, with a foot holding the starter safely to the deck. |
Bill |
This thread was discussed between 20/06/2008 and 28/06/2008
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