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MG MGA - body removal/installation

I've been using a couple of neighbors when I remove or install my coupe body on the frame. Has anyone done this with an engine hoist? Seems like you'd have more control to get it located in the right position.
G Goeppner

It's easy with an engine hoist. You'll need a bracket that bolts between the front and rear cowls with a lifting ring or attachments for an engine tilter. Makes body removal an easy one man operation. Here's my body on the crane and there's a good photo on the Eclectic Motors web site of them doing the same thing.


Bill Young

George,
If I recall, you're doing a coupe. With my coupe I just wrapped a wide lifting strap thru the top width-wise, attached it to my engine hoist, and hoisted away. Some padding where the stap comes into contact with top of the roof surface is a good idea. An assistant is helpful to steady it and clear the frame. Put it back on the same way...several times in fact! I'll send you a photo when I get home.
Cheers,
Gerry
G T Foster

Sorry George, I'll have to learn to read a little closer before I open my big mouth. Looks like Gerry has it down.
Bill Young

Hi, I used a hoist and simple cockpit x-brace when removing/replacing the body it made the job very easy and controllable by one persbon. Wing mounting captive nuts used for lfting points. Body gaps have been preserved. I have also enclosed a picture of the "dolly" that I made to move the body around, also well worth the few hours it took to knock up.
Regards
Tony


Tony Mitchell

Body dolly picture
Regards
Tony


Tony Mitchell

Thanks for the input guys. It looks simple enough, I don't know why I hadn't thought of it earlier!
George
G Goeppner

Here's another way !


Art Pearse

Art, is that a home built sand blasting cabinet in the background? What kind of sandblaster and compressor are you using. I was looking around today at gear because I was considering buiding my own cabinet but I don't think my compressor is big enough, only 5.5cfm at 90psi.

Andres
Andres Losin

Andres, Try:

http://www.tptools.com/p/337,142_Build-Your-Own-Cabinet-Plans.html

I used their plans and built my cabinet. They also sell parts necessary for the job. My compresser is an old sears 2hp 110V compresser. I can't remember the output rating. It will not keep up even using the smallest nozzles. BUT it does a fine job for small items. If you are patient, even larger jobs but yo may have to stop often for the compresser to catch up. I couldn't even think about doing a restoration without one.

I also built a pressure blaster out of a tank that came from a old water heater (I think)and a blasting room out of conduit and plastic tarp to keep the grit under control for the larger items like frames and differential housings etc. Again, a larger compresser would work much better but with patience.....

If you ned mor info, just holler!

Chuck

C Schaefer

I to used a lift. Did bodywork and paint before setting on the frame.


WMR Bill

George,
I did forget to add that with my method I had to put a couple bags of sand in the boot to counter balance the body and get it to hang level.
Cheers,
Gerry
G T Foster

Andres, that's right. It has leather gloves glues to old jeans legs for the hands, an internal lamp, a connection for a vacuum hose (essential to clear the air of fines or you can't see) and I use replaceable vinyl taped over the glass, 'cos the glass gets frosted.
Compressor is a Campbell Hausfeld, I think 6.5 cfm at 90 psi, nozzle is also Campbell hausfeld. It is big enough for wheels. longer stuff, I would cut windows in the sides and add curtains.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 25/10/2007 and 26/10/2007

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