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MG MGA - Brake Adjustments

I am sure some where in the archives there is an answer but I have not found it. I replaced a rear wheel brake cylinder and back shoes. Don't know why I didn't replace all of them at one time, but I didn't.
I have bled the brakes and don't think there is any air in them. However, I have to push the brake pedal way down, release and then have a fairly good pedal. I think my problem is with the brake adjustment. I did NOT turn the drums and with the exception of the leaking wheel cylinder and new brake shoes on the rear nothing else changed except I can't get the brakes to adjust tight enough to even drag when I rotate the drums except the one where I replaced the leaking wheel cylinder and it sticks half way through the rotation.
Mike Razor

Mike - I just did the same job. One replaced cylinder and both sets of shoes. I could barely get the drums back over the shoes with the adjusters all the way down.
Did you have the same problem? If not, perhaps the shoes were the wrong size (wrong car?). In any case, with only one turn on each adjuster I was locked, so I backed off to none. Now, after a 1000 mile run to/back from the Solomons Regional, I need to adjust to get them back up tight.

- Kwn
Ken Doris

I have just the flip side can't get them tight enough and don't know why. Nothing else changed but the the shoes and the cylinder.
Mike Razor

I think you guy's are missing out on the old art of brake shoe arcing. Here are the instructions on how it was done.
http://model-a-wis.com/brakearc.pdf
gary starr

I have the same problem I am about one click away from no more adjustment with new lining. A lot replacement lining was not as thick as orginal. Many have solved this problem by shiming or welding to the adjuster. Check out Barneys site he wrote about this http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt102.htm Chuck
Charles O'Brien

This thread was discussed between 05/10/2011 and 07/10/2011

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