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MG MGA - Hard starting

my 1957 MGA roadster is very difficult to start, (only) the first time each day. it has been suggested I convert to an electonic ignition. has anyone solved this problem this way ? thanks
JF Kreitz

Doubt if electronic ignition will improve the starting. If the engine is turning over, and takes a long time to fire up, are you letting the fuel pump fill the carbs prior to pulling the starter knob? (about 5-10 seconds)
The adjustment of the carb choke levers is also critical to getting an MGA to start corectly. Check that when the choke knob is pulled out that the carb jets are pulled fully down. Adjustment is explained in the workshop manual.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

The MGA is known for being an easy starter. Bad starting will almost certainly not be cured by an electronic ignition system. Pete is right - often poor cold starting is down to the choke not pulling out fully due to a slipped cable. Failing that you need to check all your ignition circuit - plugs, points, condenser, coil, earth connections etc. Then check your valve clearances and set your timing. When the engine is then running you can check your choke setting,mixture, carb balance etc. Good luck - Cam
Cam Cunningham

I installed a pertronix unit and a sport coil, then gapped my sparkplugs at .035". I would have to say that it starts quicker than it did with the points and the original coil. I have put about 15,000 miles on it since and have not had to touch the ignition system at all. I will agree that the choke must be properly adjusted in order to easily start a cold engine.


Ed Bell

JF

Is it hard to start because the engine only turns over slowly during the first start? I had this situation for some time and eventually discovered a dodgy joint in the battery cable.

Steve
Steve Gyles

JF
I had the same problem, I performed every adjustment, setting and tune I or members of this board could think of, it ran great once it started. Then started fine the rest of the day, maybe a little slow. One day it just did not start and was killing the battery. Pull your starter (or check battery draw) and check the four screws that hold the field coils to the outer casing, mine loosened and the field coils were rubbing the armature. If you caught it soon enough you can tighten the screws and you'll be fine. After I replaced the starter it started perfectly everytime.

Best of Luck,

Ken
L Caya

Along similar lines,I had a slow starting problem with my A several million years ago but the cure stuck in my pea-like brain because I subsequently encountered it with several other BMC cars.

Where the heavy cable came in from the battery/solenoid to the starter motor onto the main terminal it's not just the outer nut that needs checking for tightness but also the inner one behind the cable end plate ie on the face of the motor.This seems to straighten up the rod inside the motor.Often seemed to do the trick.

Mind you,I did come across a Cortina once with similar symptoms until I waggled the motor which was held on by only one bolt and the other(upper) about to fall out.Twas a woman driver! She wondered about the strange noises on start-up.
MR Blencowe

I have replaced the battery cables and connectors several times, when I have replaced the batteries, over the 50 years of maintaining my MGA, including cleaning the chassis ground point and all of the cable ends to and at the front of the car. When starting was hard and slow, it renewed the energy to start well. Remember to oil the bushings that the armature for the starter and the generator spins in once every few years as well. Russ
Russ Carnes

Ditto Russ and Steve.

Make sure all the connections are really clean and tight. Combine that with the correct choke setting on the carbs and you should not have any problems.

My car used to be a slow starter (fist start only) too, now, with full choke and a blip of the throttle, it starts right up. If it doesn't fire immediately (within a couple of seconds) I release the starter (as oppose to letting the engine continue to turn over) and pull again after a couple more seconds; the engine then fires instantly.

Electronic ignition will solve the problem if it is caused by your points being incorrectly set or partially burned out, but that does not sound like it's the case as it starts and runs well once run.
Neil McGurk

Neil,
One point on "a blip of the throttle" - there is no accelerator pump in an SU carb, so blipping doesn't do anything. It might work on a Webber carb.
Waiting for the float bowls to fill up definitely helps the car to start first or second pull of the starter knob.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Peter,

I open the throttle when starting the car, but release as it fires, hence the term blip. That certainly seems to make a difference compared to not pressing the accelerator. This is the same with the other cars I own with twin SU carburretors. Do you (everyone) start the car without using the accelerator pedal?

Neil
Neil McGurk

Neil

I do much the same as you, but more out of habit. Since recently sorting out my choke linkages and cam (had been incorrectly assemblied when new I think) I have found that the choke throttle adjustment screw now works as advertised and provides the right amount of butterfly opening without any input from me!

Steve
Steve Gyles

I tuned my car according to Barney's "Tune up the casual way" http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/cf120.htm
My car starts without any throttle just the choke, even though I usally give it a bit of extra throttle for a few seconds when it fires then close the choke - it might be different for you guys in the colder climes.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore (1)

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2009 and 20/02/2009

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