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MG MGA - Ok I bought it...now what the hell do I do with it

Well folks, I bought the 1960 MGA with proud doors and low oil pressure. (Twist replaced the rod bearings and the pressure is now fine). I'm picking it up from the seller tomorrow.

So now what the hell do I do?

A couple of really basic questions come to mind.

1) Gas. I assume I use 93 octane unleaded with a lead additive, but are there any recommended mixes or brands of additive?

2) What's the regular starting routine for a cold engine? Choke, pump pedal, pull starter?

3) What's the regular basic maintenance routine.

Thanks again for your help. I'm sure I'll be around asking all the same old basic questions.

Regards,

Tysen
Tysen

1) Turn on key and wait until pump quits hammering and slows down to about one click in about 10 seconds. That makes sure the carbs are full of gas.
2) Depress throttle and then pull out the "choke" which it isn't. Depressing the throttle makes pulling out the "choke" easier. Twist the choke knob 1/4 turn to lock it if it doesn't lock out automatically. You'll have to twist it in the opposite direction to get it to release.
3) Set brake and place gear shift in neutral. Keep foot off clutch as engine will spin faster.
4) Pull out starter knob.

There is no fuel injector in the carb as US cars used to have. So pumping the throttle has little effect.

In really cold weather, you can pre prime a carb if one of them has the "tickler pin" but I don't think most MGAs had it. Just the older T types.

Check the owner's or shop manual for maintainence. Some service must be done every 500 miles. Keep the front king pins greased!

Regards,
Blake
Bullwinkle

Tysen,

If you are new to the car, the first thing to do is to buy a driver's handbook. This is the book supplied with each new MGA.
They are available almost continuously on Ebay. Go to:

http://www.ebay.com

Search for MGA 1600 Handbook

Try this site, it might work:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4564124594&category=378&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

Mick
Mick Anderson

Tysen:

Most of the major MG suppliers (Scarborough Faire, Moss, etc.) sell reprints of the MGA Workshop Manual (which includes the drivers handbook info). I highly recommend buying this. It includes all the basic maitenance info as well as instructions on how to work the switches and knobs.

Good luck with the car!

Regards,
M.D.
'57 Coupe
M. D.

drive that puppy.write down what you dont like and fix in winter,but enjoy the summer first.enjoy it.cc
c.callaway

Begin to play the lottery. You will need the funds later on...
Tom Balutis

Hi Tysen. I agree with the other posters. Additionally:
I would change motor oil and filter, antifreeze, transmission oil, and rear axle oil. Regarding the battery: remove and clean the terminals, then apply vaseline to terminals. Check water levels in all cells. Check batter state of charge. Remove the carb dashpots and clean out the gunk, then reassemble. Check the carb dampers for proper oil level. If the vehicle is running poorly, do a complete tuneup: new plugs, points, condensor, distributor cap, ignition cables, rotor. valve adjustment, and if necessary carburettor adjustment. Next, I would inspect the entire car, and check ALL bolts, nuts and screws for tightness. Check all front end parts to make sure castellated nuts have cotter pins where required. (A missing cotter pin can really ruin your day if something critical drops off at speed) Pull the front wheels and check brake pads for "meat" and the rotors for scoring and "runout" Pull the rear drums and check the shoes for "meat" and drums for scoring and out of round. Adjust the rear brakes if needed. IMPORTANT: Carefully inspect ALL brake metal brake lines for rust. If any lines are seriously rusty, REPLACE THEM ALL WITH COPPER/NICKEL ones that WONT RUST! Check all rubber brake hoses for cracks, bulges, splits or worn areas. Replace them all if ANY show signs of deterioration! Check all wheel cylinders, brake calipers and the master cylinder for signs of leakage or seepage. If anything in the hydraulic system is leaking DO NOT drive the car until the faults are fully corrected!!! Our MGA's have only a SINGLE brake circuit. If any one part of the hydraulic system fails, you have NO BRAKES! I would also install an inline fuel filter somewhere after the fuel pump. Next make sure that all electrical items are working: lights horn, wiperd, signals etc. Check for DPO (dumb previous owner) electrial splices. If you find any, fix them properly. Lots of dummies simply twist wires together and throw some electrical tape on them. These improper splices WILL cause problems down the road. If you want to get your hands really dirty, you could pull the starter and generator, and make sure the brushes, bearings and bushings arent excessively worn. As a final suggestion: Pressure clean the underside of the car, and after thoroughly dry, then spray it with waxoyl, or other "dripless " oil to prevent rust. These chores are a lot of work. Spread over nemerous days, they become (perhaps) pleasant chores. Good luck with the new MGA. Above all, drive it, enjoy it, and preserve it. Safety Fast! Cheers! Glenn
Glenn

Hi again Tysen. Dont forget to also grease the drivehaft ujoints, outer tie rod ends, and the emergency brake cable. The generator also needs an occasional drop of oil in the rear bushing. The steering rack requires occasional lubrication also, and takes gear oil, injected through grease fittings on the rack. Also check the steering rack "gaitors" (rubber boots) for cracks. Replace if needed. Cheers! Glenn
Glenn

Tysen - obviously the best thing to do is to enjoy it! And, you definitely need a book to study. The best is one you can put on your nightstand to check out that nagging question just before Morpheus pulls you down, but a good temporary solution is the MGA Handbook on this site:

http://www.1978mgmidget.com/manuals_and_booklets.html

Hope it helps, and then you can move up to the Special Tuning booklet. Cheers - - Alec
Alec Darnall

LOTS OF GOOD INFO HERE, especially from GLENN, CANADA! Not much for me to add, except:
1. When overhauling the Clutch, REPLACE ALL THREE COMPONENTS: CLUTCH COVER, FRICTION PLATE, & THROWOUT BEARING! PARTS are CHEAP, it's the LABOR CHARGE that eats up the money! The LABOR COST for replacing all three parts is ABOUT THE SAME as if ONLY ONE PART is changed! What you DON'T want to do is PAY YOUR MECHANIC THREE TIMES AS EACH PART FAILS ONE-BY-ONE! If you can "DO IT YOURSELF" you STILL want to REPLACE ALL THREE PARTS! Clutch overhauls are a real pain in the butt because IT TAKES A MECHANIC A LONG TIME TO DO THE JOB, and is likely to take YOU longer to do the job than a "REAL MECHANIC" even. It's NOT a hard job, but REALLY TIME CONSUMING! As an Electronics Technician, I recommend SOLDERING electrical wires to the "BULLET CONNECTORS" and "BUTT CONNECTORS", despite what you may have heard about CRIMPING being "BETTER"! Or you can crimp AND solder, which is what I do. NEW bullet connectors & butt connectors will go a long way towards REDUCING ELECTRICAL FAILURES in our OVER 30 YEAR OLD WIRING!
wattswh1

I recommend that you do all your own work. I am not a major fan of licensed mechanics, although I was one for several years. Some mechanics regard the license as a license to steal, and they do a fairly good job, too. If you aren't mechanical, don't worry because these cars are fairly user friendly. Join the local MGA club, and when you need mechanical assistance, you can most probably call a (new) friend, and he or she will be happy to assist you. Also, this has the added benefit of teaching you more about your car than most others know. As you learn, you will know while driving whether the car is running correctly, and usually know how to get it back in tune and fine fiddle.
Good luck.
mike parker

When I first got my 1960 MGA-1600, GHNL88669, in 1962, I knew NOTHING about cars at all! As you guys suggested, I joined ALL the M.G. Car Clubs & Military Hobby Shops wherever the US Navy sent me: Norfolk, VA, Charleston, SC, San Diego, CA, and Yokosuka, Japan. An MGA in Japan was a real pleasure! With the steering wheel on the "WRONG SIDE" - Japan is same as the U.K. - I COULD SEE THE BENJO DITCH BEFORE GOING OFF THE ROAD INTO IT! The 38 MPH NATIONAL SPEED LIMIT MEANT A LOT OF TIME IN 3RD GEAR AND THE JUDSON SUPERCHARGER NEVER GOT INSTALLED! STILL GOT THE JUDSON SOMEWHERE IN THE ATTIC. About 75,000 miles and 8 years later, I could swap rear-end assemblies, transmissions, tune the S.U. Twin Carbs, adjust tappet clearances, and do a complete engine, brakes, or clutch overhaul including hydraulics! I read everything I could find on MGs and had FOUR DIFFERENT PUBLISHER'S MGA SHOP MANUALS (They covered the material DIFFERENTLY so I would "Pick-and-Choose" according to which one or ones COVERED THE JOB BEST!) I also subscribed to "PRACTICAL MOTORING", "HOT CAR", and "CARS & CAR CONVERSIONS" magazines from the U.K. and picked up an occasional Australian magazine in Manila or Tokyo. In the trunk I carried a good batch of SEARS CRAFTSMAN TOOLS, including the WHITWORTH SOCKETS; and carried "SPARE" (1.) electric fuel pump, (2.) Distributor Cap-Rotor-H.V.Wiring Assembly, (3.) Breaker Points Kit with Condenser, and (4.) Cylinder Head Gasket Set, (5.) used piece of rug to lay down on or fit under the wheels to get out of muddy or snowy ditches, and (6.) a square piece of 3/4" plywood to fit under the jack wouldn't sink into the snow or mud. I could do 90% of my repairs AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD!
wattswh1

Will,

I'd suggest you uncouple your email address from this wedsite. It's pretty obvious from the return address (I have one like that too) that you're wasting taxpayer money when you're contributing to these threads...I don't mind the contributions, in fact I enjoy reading 'em, but not too sure the Gov't would be if they happened across 'em.

Gene
Gene Gillam

This thread was discussed between 24/07/2005 and 28/07/2005

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