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MG MGA - Refilling front shock absorber after leak

One of my front shocks lost all of its fluid after a slow leak from the base of the cover that is held on by 8 screws. I have read about needing to get the air out of the system after refilling. How do I do this without removing the shock from the car? Do I just top it up, take the car for a run, recheck/add more fluid, or what?
Gary Lock

?

That cover is above the level of the fluid - if it leaks there, it will lose such a marginal amount of fluid that it makes no difference to the operation of the shock.
It's more likely to be leaking at the valve (replace the O Ring or sealing ring) or at the point where the shaft goes throgh the shock body (needs new seals on the shaft).

If it's at the valve, this can be repaired with the shock in the car. You need to work the lever as much as possible to get the air out of the pistons, which is easier with the shock out of the car, but could, I suppose, be done by bouncing the car up and down fairly hard for 10 minutes, let it rest to let air bubbles rise, and repeat.

If the shaft seals are leaking, it's a tear down job.

dominic clancy

I purchased some Penrite Shock oil readily available in OZ and a large syringe (100Ml I think) with a tapered end.
Remove the top pivot bolt and the top filler plug.
don't do this after driving the car as the fluid expands. If fluid comes out then you already have enough.
Add the fluid through the syringe and move the shock arm up and down several times until the shock is full.
Easy... I use to change the fluid in my race car regularly and it's much easier on the car than in a vice.
Hope this helps.
Cheers <MARK>
Mark Hester

Gary,
I use a pump type oil can for the shock oil. I forced a piece of thin vacuum tubing over the nozzle of the can. The tubing must be small enough to fit through the fill hole with plenty of clearance around it. Push the tube as far down into the shock as it will go and pump the oil in. The fills the shock upwards from the bottom of the reservoir and allows the air to escape as you fill, rather than pouring oil in the top with the escaping bubbles pushing the oil back out the hole. You will still have to bounce the car to circulate the oil as the reservoir fills, but I've found this method to be much quicker, and using the hose and pump can allows easy access to the shock.
Bill
Bill Boorse

The cover with 8 screws is definately not above the oil level. The most likely leak is around the shaft, from worn seals, but if it is leaking around this cover it should be removed while low on oil and the gasket replaced. You will probably have to make one or use some type of sealant in a tube.
John DeWolf

Or, you could trade your old shocks in for newly rebuilts. A good place many have found is World Wide, http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm. However, you may find doing your own rebuild a desirable project for you.
Bob Muenchausen

I also drilled small access holes in the rear near battery access cover on both sides so I can use the same procedure to refill rear shocks as well. These holes are small, filled with silicone to prevent water entry into car and just pop the silicone 'plug' out when I need to get to rear shocks (rarely), check level, top off with fluid, then apply new silicone filler. Very easy, and makes the rear shocks accessible contrary to the shop manual statement that they must be removed from the car to top off.

steve
Steve Nyman

John

Suggest that you go and look, the cover on the front shocks is on the top of the shock - definitely above the level that would cause a problem in the case of a leak.

Maybe you don't have original shocks.

Dominic
dominic clancy

Dominic, maybe you don't have original shocks, because every Armstrong front shocker built for the MGA's had a side plate (facing the wheel)..please refer to all parts manuals (Moss, Anglo etc.) and you will see a drawing. If you remove this plate, which has eight screws and a gasket, then all the fluid flows out.
Gary Lock

Gary is correct.

It is very important to keep the oil level above the level of the shafts. Besides being a resevoir for the damping mechanism, this is the only source of lubrication for the shaft. If they are allowed to run dry in the aluminum housings the aluminum will wear causing the shaft to run eccentricaly in the seal.
John DeWolf

I just had a second front shock absorber fail that was rebuilt by Worldwide. Both of them lost their fluid within 1000 miles of driving. Although the guys at Worldwide will cheerfully replace the unit (their rebuilds are guaranteed for life), it is a pain re-installing the damn things again after so little use.
Jim Paul

After reading this thread I thought I had better do my shock absorber levels. Topped up the fronts with no problems. Took me an extra 10 mins aside for the rears, having first to undo the 2 attachments bolts and then pull the unit down to access the filler. But it was no real problem and does not, in my humble opinion, warrant any modifications outlined above. All the units needed surprisingly little fluid after 8 years!!

The only thing I know you will all comment on is that I used 60+ year old fluid from an original Girling damper fluid can! I salvaged it from my Father-in-Law's garage when he died 8 years ago. The contents still looked perfect and I don't think the can had ever been opened.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This thread was discussed between 20/04/2005 and 23/04/2005

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