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MG MGA - rust on small parts

Hi,
What are the general techniques used to remove rust on smaller parts? My handbrake is quite rusty and barely moves, the button doesn't move, and the pawl is stuck.
Do I soak it in something?
I've looked at the archives and am considering this electrolytic method?
Any opinions?
Thanks
Jonathan
jonathan

jonathan,
What I would suggest is soak it in PB Blaster, then apply heat (a propane torch) to get it freed up. Once its freed up, take it apart and use a powered wire wheel (the type mounted to a bench) and/or sand blaster to remove rust (might even do this before you take it apart). Buff it out and, most likely, send the chrome pieces and bright plated parts to get replated.

Regards,
GTF
G T Foster

Jonathan, part of your problem could be the handbrake cable itself. The cable might be rusted to the spiral casing, or, the grease has gotten so hard from lack of use that the cable can't slide in the casing. This latter problem can be fixed by removing the cable from the car and running a propane torch along the length. You'll be surprised at how much old grease bubbles out, and soon the cable should move freely again. Don't do this with the cable on the car!
George Goeppner

I've derusted parts electrolytically (including my handbrake). I highly recommend it!
Rob Edwards

GT,I have been spraying a number of times with "Kroil". It will be hard to get inside the handle with any kind of sandblasting. I don't see how this would work.

George,
The handbrake is removed from the car, so I know it is stuck. The cable is stuck too. And probably whatever it is attached to.

Rob,
Did you follow the methods described?
battery charger, baking soda, iron electrode?
I'd like to try this.

Thanks for all the comments
Jonathan
jonathan

Here's a good bit of info on that:
http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/rust_electrolyse.txt
Jon Bachelor

I used the method I found here:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

For the solution I used lye because I already had some. For the anode, I used an old stainless steel pot lid, and for the container I used a plastic storage bin from Target (about $3).....

HTH!
Rob Edwards

Guys,
Thanks for the links.
Jonathan
jonathan

There used to be a product called Deox-C, but I can't find the web site now. I still have some at home, which is in powder form. You mix up a solution and it disolves the rust leaving a clean surface with paint/chrome intact.

Another product is here..
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229

Ian Pearl

Is this process better for pieces that require a high finish without wire wheel brush marks or pieces that need to be plated? I want to like the idea, but I can't see suspension parts sitting in a tub for three hours when I could have done them with a wire wheel in 20 minutes.
Mark J

Here's another.
http://cleanrust.com/
D Sjostrom

Mark, the advantage for chemical rust removal is that unlike a wire brush the chemicals can get all the rust out, even in the microscopic surface imperfections. It's also good for parts such as de-mister vent assemblies where the inner surfaces are unreachable by mechanical means. I agree, for suspension parts where you just want a reasonable surface for new paint a wire brush should suffice.
Bill Young

Soak them in white vinegar for about a day. Works great!
MLS Somers

my life got better when I discovered a small business called "U-Spray". They have several booths for DIY sandblasting and you can do 2ea.- springs, springpans, coils(try wire brushing those), shocks and hubs for about $15 at $1.25/min.

They are in an industrial park and mostly used by casting and metal fab companies.
Fred H

Fred,

You need to get out more often!! :-)
Joe Cook

Fred,
$1.25/min and you're providing the labor? Yikes! Guess my sandblasting cabinet has payed for itself many times over.

GTF
G T Foster

Joe, my comment was meant for someone who currently uses kroil and a wire wheel. Obviously, if you own an industrial sandblaster it's a different story. Removing every speck of rust from the parts I listed with a wire brush would take how many days? I'll bet I get out more often than you do, if that's your method.

GTF, my brother has a sandblasting cabinet, from Eastwood I think. I've used it and other home sandblasters too. They can't even come close to matching the job these do. It's like trying to paint a car with an airbrush. At U-Spray, I can do a badly rusted coil spring, inside and out, and remove every speck of rust in about 30 seconds. That's worth 60 cents to me any day. On his unit that would take 30 minutes and only if it's not clogging.

What kind of setup do you have? I'd like to know, because if it can match that, I'd like to get one too.
Fred H

Fred,
My home setup a syphon type unit that was assembled from a kit for about $100. No, it cannot match the type of performance you describe. This is partly because I use sand since I prefer the less aggressive surface it leaves compared to "black diamond" type media. I've done springs and it takes more like the 30 minutes you describe. Still, it works quite well and its nice to have it at hand when needed. I've not had any problems with clogging. However, I used a pressure blaster with sand (in my driveway) to do the frame and body "tub" and it cut very quickly. Made quite a mess however.

Regards,
GTF
G T Foster

Fred,
I too have a large hobby sand blaster, made by TIP. I bought it several years ago while restoring an E Type. Since then, I have not used it very much due to the mess, noise and propensity to clog. Other than that, I love it! Nothing works faster and cleans better on large, odd shaped parts. Just the other day, I bought 150 pounds of cheap play sand, filtered it through a screen and used it to clean three prop shafts, (two Bugeye and one MGA) two Bugeye wishbones, two rotors, two Bugeye M/C supports, two blanking plates, two brake dust covers, two calipers, and two Bugeye seat frames, and still had some sand left over.
Mind you, I have to do this outside in the open, with a mask and filter, as well as a hood and gloves. I place a 4X8 sheet of plywood on the ground to protect the concrete and aim towards the yard where sand is helpful in leveling my sod, but always being careful not to let plants get blasted as well. I group items together to save on sand and control valves. I only use the sand blaster when the weather allows, due the the high volume of air required. Too much humidity and the sand tank gets wet and clogs the lines.
What a beautiful job and all of these parts took less than 30 minutes. Most of that time was walking back and forth placing items back in my shop, ready for a coat of primer, and letting my compressor build up more psi.
I had to take one of the wishbones to the welder and he asked where I got new parts for my 46 year old car. He was shocked when I told him I had cleaned the parts myself and painted them like new.
MLS Somers,
I too use vinegar for small parts, such as nuts, bolts and bits too small to blast. (even large items get blown away, if I am not careful)
Cleve

Cleve has brought up an important point about sandblasting. Whether you sandblast in the open or an enclosed area, breathing the dust can cause silicosis, which is very similar to asbestosis. Respiratory protection must be used.
mike parker

This thread was discussed between 31/01/2005 and 10/02/2005

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