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MG MGA - STUCK CLUTCH

Due to some health issues this year I was late in getting my car out from winter storage. When I went to retrieve it this past week I was able to get it started without issue but was unable to shift into gear with engine running. I've checked the fluid levels in the MC, checked the operation of the clutch levers and the slave cylinder. All are operating as they should. Assuming that the winter storage has caused the clutch plate to fuse to the pressure plate or flywheel I tried all of Barney Gaylord's suggestions without success. Before I go to the effort of removing the engine and getting at the clutch directly are there any other possible quick fix techniques anyone can suggest.

Appreciate any and all advice ..... thanks !!

Mike
1960 MGA 1600
Michael Hosier

Mike - I had that problem with our Magnette a number of years ago. I started the car and let it warm up to operating temperature, then put the transmission in reverse and started the engine to get it out of the car port - shut the engine off - put it in to first gear and started the engine and drove it around out circular drive with the clutch pedal to the floor, alternately stomping on the gas and then the brake, after about 5 minutes the clutch broke loose from the flywheel and everything was fine. For the first couple of miles of driving the car, I would sand the clutch by reving the engine with the clutch pedal down, then letting the clutch out partially while keepiong the engine reved. After a few miles, everything was fine.

I had to repeat the above a couple of times due to keeping the car in a car port rather than a dry garage. We finally sold the car because of the lack of proper dry storage. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

Ive had success putting a cut down piece of wood between the seat bottom and the clutch pedal.

The clutch pedal was fully depressed and the master was good.

Set it up during sunset and when I awoke in the morning it was working. Kinda made me think there was a clutch leprechaun! Seriously It worked!
Steven Devine

Not on an MG, but I have freed up a clutch by jacking one drive wheel off the ground and then starting the engine in gear. Then hold the clutch down and press the brake a few times.

dan
Dan Smithers

I've had success Dan's way as well as jacking it up, starting the engine in gear, then dropping the jack down with the engine rev'd up and the clutch pressed in. Broken flywheels loose in both an MGA and a Model A that last way.
Gene Gillam

Mike,

I had the double disc clutch in my large truck stick like that after a 3-year layup. I needed to move it about 80 miles. I shoved the clutch pedal to the floor and was able to lock it there with vice grips. Then I put it in gear, hit the key, and headed out on the 80 miles. After about 50 miles it broke free, and I removed the vice grips.

Admittedly it is easier to shift a semi without the clutch than an MG, but it is doable with an MG. It would help if you live in a low density area. You have to turn it off at stoplights and then start it again while it is still in gear. You could accomplish a similar thing with the rear wheels off the ground and loading it with the brakes. I haven't read Barney's suggestions, so I don't know what you have already tried.

Charley


C R Huff

I've had this on the MGC, which we don't drive in the winter.

Dave nailed it - it is ferrous material on the disc bonding (i.e. rusting) to the flywheel, and you need to fire it up and warm it up, then shut it down and start it in gear and pull away with the clutch pushed in. Getting on and off the gas sharply will help break it free.

We now go out and push the clutch in once a month on the MGC and just sin it a turn with the starter motor to make sure it never does it. It seems like more than 2 months without doing this puts you into the risky area.
Bill Spohn

Many thanks to all for the tips. Yesterday was my last attempt at fixing the problem. I started the car and let it run to operating temp. I then shut it off, put it in gear, depressed the clutch and started it. I drove it up and down the road, on and off the gas with the clutch in for a good half hour. Even tried applying the brakes after getting on and off the gas to the point of locking up the wheels to a skid. Nothing changed .... it is still as stuck as it was !! I left the car in the garage with the one last idea that hadn't been tried. I have a piece of wood cut to length so that it keeps the clutch depressed with the car sitting idle. I plan on going back to see it tomorrow to see if somehow a miracle happened. Looks like I may end up with a new clutch by the time it's all over ...... will post the final outcome !!

Thanks again,

Mike
1960 MGA
Michael Hosier

Go Stick trick!
Steven Devine

Interestingly I run a 5 brg 1800 motor and all syncro overdrive box with B clutch components in my coupe. The pressure plate has washers between it and the flywheel to ensure clutch disengagement. My understanding from the mg specialists who original built the car up is that this is a common mod. Maybe you car has some non standard bits and needs this mod?
I have had the engine out a couple of times over the years for repairs but always put the clutch back with the spacer washers - they certainly don't affect clutch grip - 15.2 secs for quarter mile!


Mike Ellsmore

Well unfortunately the problem proved too much for even the "stick trick". So we are preparing for the engine removal and clutch replacement. Parts are on order and all should be back to normal by the end of the month.

Many thanks to all for the tips, suggestions and tricks !!

Mike
1960 MGA
Michael Hosier

Mike, just remember while you have it out, and you have gone to all the trouble, make sure you get the flywheel and clutch surfaces machined, trued, re-surfaced... what ever you call it. AND.. make sure you replace the release bearing. Their is a guy in Oz that makes release bearings that use a bearing, and not the graphite.... might be worth looking into.
... CR
C.R. Tyrell

While you are at it, don't forget that the release bearing fork has a shouldered bolt and bushing that are also subject to wear. Check them and replace if worn for smoothest clutch action. Also examine the spigot bushing for the input shaft. Inexpensive parts that can wear are often good to replace when the engine is out.
Keith Lowman

This thread was discussed between 30/07/2015 and 09/08/2015

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