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MG MGB Technical - Engine that sat idle

Hello all. Your expertise would be appreciated.

I've acquired a '75 that sat idle for 3 or 4 years. I'll be changing the oil, draining the fuel tank and flush lines with new filter, flushing the coolant and replacing the plugs/distributor cap/rotor.

The engine does turn by hand.

Should I replace the thermostat (figured it might be rusted)? Should I "de-federalize" it prior to trying to get the car running? It still has the air pump, etc.

Worse case scenario - my 80 B with rust issues will donate its engine to this '75 with an excellent body, but I'd like to see it it'll be a runner first.

Your suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
CRH Hoebel

Get it running first, then do any de-smogging you have in mind.
.

Before the first start, take the sparkplugs out, disconnect the wire to the contact breaker, and spin it on the starter until the oil pressure reads. Then fit the plugs, reconnect and start it up.

If you can't get any oil pressure, you might need to prime the oil pump, by squirting oil into the fillting for the gauge take off.
Martin Layton

Here's a link to an article that you may find helpful.
http://www.theautoist.com/awakening_a_sleeping_b.htm
Kimberly

Chris - DO follow the link from Kimberly. If you do, you'll be "golden". :-)

R.
Rick Stevens

Chris - Don't worry about the termostat, brass doesn't rust. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Also, Chris - Regarding the smog equipment: There are opinions pro and con (big surprise!) but the bottom line on this is to at least leave the vapor canister in place. This has absolutely no effect on the car's performance and does a good job of recapturing gas fumes and keeping them from the atmospher. In other words, you get to do something for Mama Earth pretty much for free. :-) And you can even refresh the canister with a few ounces of aquarium charcoal and some coffee filters. (http://www.theautoist.com/carboncannister.htm)

As for the other equipment, like I said there are different schools of thought on this. From my own experience I can say that as long as the equipment is functioning properly, you really aren't losing much if anything in street performance by leaving it in place. I de-smogged my '73, and the main thing I got was a cleaner engine bay. Any performance improvement I noticed was just as likely due to the placebo effect. Others will tell you of noticeable HP gains, I'm sure - and there will be some truth to what they say. This is just my experience.

One thing to look out for here is local and state laws regarding smog checks. Many places not only do a tailpipe sniff but a visual equipment check as well, on cars that are young enough to go thru the process. Some owners go so far as to pull the equipment off, replacing it annually or as needed to pass inspection then removing it again. Whatever. As long as you do your homework on the regs you can remove it or not. Note that if the equipment is belly up - the pump won't turn for example - just pull it. The car will run fine and you can always re-fit a "new" pump you get from ebay or craigslist, later on.

R.


Rick Stevens

You may wish to fit new points while you're in the distributor. They can build up corrosion which will short the spark to ground. That'll still probably allow the car to run, but very poorly!
jeff
Jeff Schlemmer

Regarding your t-stat. True it does not rust. The question is, is this a good working unit? To get the car running for test purposes, I would pull the t-stat and test it seperately (boil it in a tea cup of water) then reinstall after you are satisfied the engine is running ok.

Let us know how this project work out

cheers

Gary :>{D
79 mgb
gnhansen

Brass doesn't rust, but steel does - and the thermostat is mostly made of steel. Anyway, unless you're going to run the engine until it gets hot, then you''ll not be worried if the thermostat is jammed anyway. If the engine overheats on idle, chances are that the thermostat is duff!

I'd spin it up as Martin says, but I'd disconnect the fuel pump. I'd also jump it from something big, modern and diesel to get the engine really turning on the starter. Especially if the clutch is seized and you are turning the gearbox too.

I wouldn't be keen to do all that pre-work if you don't know for sure that the engine was a runner before the lay up. If there is oil in the sump and it doesn't look like goo, then I'd leave that if you're just going to run it without any load. I wouldn't bother with the coolant either because, if the engine doesn't start, you're not going to need it! I'd also think about filling the float chambers with new petrol to see if it fires at all before flushing out the tank etc. Unless they're rusty, then time will not have killed-off the plugs. Likewise the cap and rotor (which is brass...!). Points might be a good idea, and condenser because they're always knackered - even when they are brand new! Might be worth putting some oil in the dashpot if it is running SUs.

Good luck, I hope it starts.

Neil
Neil Lock

Thanks for all of the feedback. Since I last checked this post, I drained/pulled the radiator. The belts need to be changed anyway, and they would be difficult to get at with the radiator in place.

That being said, the lower radiator hose looks/feels good, but the upper needs replacing. Is there any reason I cant affix a standard strait piece of hose for now (as opposed to the "accordion" shaped old one)?
Thanks
CRH Hoebel

Oh, would a little marvel mystery oil down the spark plug ports be advantageous?
CRH Hoebel

This thread was discussed between 06/11/2006 and 13/11/2006

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