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MG MGB Technical - Fuel Tank Packing Strips?

I finally decided to replace the fuel tank on my 73 BGT. Internal rust was killing my fuel pump and filters. The old tank is pulled and the new tank is painted. All I need is to glue the packing strips in-place and install the new tank.

I have a question about the fuel tank packing strips, Moss catalog shows them installed as they are on the original tank (across the high ribs). VB's catalog has them installed on top of the full length of the ribs. I'm thinking if the intention of the rubber strips is to "Pad" the tank from the car, wouldn't the full length of the ribs make the most sense? Unless of course, mounting in that direction would prevent a proper seating for the tank to the car. Any input on the proper mounting would be appreciated.

Also, a recommandeation on the appropriate glue for the packing strips would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Dennis
Dennis Hosier

Dennis,

I deliberated on this also when I removed and cleaned-up my tank. My packing strips were not recoverable so I purchased neoprene strip replacement. The originals were placed across the tank.

I wound up installing mine across the ribs, but made sure there was a full width strip across the front facing lip as a degree of protection against water and gunk working its way into the space between the tank and boot. I did do a very thorough painting and proofing on the tank top and am relying on the bolt pressure closing up some of what might otherwise be gaps between the ribs by pressing the strips into this and the refreshed proofing under the boot floor.

I guess time will tell but since I'm still driving on a sound original tank in a 69 I suppose it would be unreasonable to complain if I eventually have to replace the tank.

Regards
Roger
Roger T

When I replaced my fuel tank, I put a very thick coat of underseal on the top of the tank and then laid the rubber strips on top. The underseal was sufficient to retain the strips in position whilst I fitted the tank.
Peter

When I replaced my tank, I saw the strips across the ribs. I may be simple-minded, but it looked to me like a great way to trap water up there - which I'm told is the main problem with our tanks rusting.

I cut the strips to match the ribs and laid them with the ribs. It looked like if I did it this way water would have a channel to dribble out instead of getting trapped. The original tank lasted 30 years with the strips crosswise. Get in touch with me in 2034 and I'll let you know if changing the direction of the packing strips made a difference.
Matt Kulka

Dennis, I ran the strips on the ribs not across as they were when I removed the old tank. Painted the new tank with two coats of rustoleum,turned the tank on edge and rotated it slowly while I poured penetrol into the seam between the top and bottom of the tank, coated the top with penetrol which also held the strips in place and coated the bottom of the trunk area with penetrol. Then put a good coat of paste wax on the rest of the tank before I installed it.
Regards,
Dennis
D F Sexton

Thanks for the feedback! I hope to complete the job tomorrow. I hate having that car on blocks. Cheers!
Dennis Hosier

I have a stainless tank so corrosioj is not an issue. The rubber strips were in good condition and I refitted them "N/S" as they were when removed.
S Best

I did not have the strips on hand when I did this job. I simply used up a tube of caulking on the high ribs and bolted everything on loose. Next day I went and tighened the whole thing up. So far, so Good!

Pete
Pete

I thought it was stupid of the factory to put the packing perpendicular to the ribs as it traps water. I installed the packing on the ribs so if water gets up there it has a way to escape and for air to circulate to aid drying out.

I used neoprene electrical insulation which has a self sticking back that I picked up at a yard sale several years ago - great stuff.
Mike MaGee

I suppose my thinking came down on the side of reasoning that, if water could get in there, so could mud, dust and general small debree sucked up under the car. I was conscious of what I found inside the gearbox cross-member when I pulled that. A good inch of sandy loam and a sizeable piece of fire damaged wood of all things. Oh yes, of course the couple of gallons of very old and congealed oil. Probably what had saved the structure of the crossmember if I think about it.

I wasn't confident that, in those circumstances, moisture would get a chance to run out. Chose to try to minimise the entry by blocking across the front.

Thats the way the originals had been placed and my tank had nothing more than mild surface rust spots which were easily sanded clean. It may have helped that the car was garaged by the PO and probably not driven much if at all in wet weather for years.

Regards
Roger
Roger T

This thread was discussed between 15/07/2005 and 18/07/2005

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