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MG MGB Technical - Having problems aligning steering rack

Still restoring a '72 bgt. Engine not in car yet. Front end on jack stands so newly rebuilt suspension is hanging free. Original rack rebuilt by Twist. Could feel tightness when turning the steering wheel to the right. Tightness begins not too far from full right lock. Aligning steering-column shaft with the pinion shaft and trial-and-error shimming of the rack was futile (using the traditional pointed cone method). So I thought the problem may lie in the suspension. Removed the tie-rod ends from the steering arms. No problems with king pins -- everything pivots freely. With the tie rods removed, there is no tightness in the rack. When I replace and tighten the RH tie-rod end, I begin to feel the tightness and when I tighten the LH tie-rod end, I can feel the tightness a bit more, just like it did with the steering-column shaft joined to the pinion shaft (via the U-joint).

Would appreciate any tips that would steer me in the right direction on solving this problem.

Muchas Gracias,
Tom
Tom Custer

Tom - Did you fill the rack with lubricant (preferably 90W gear oil) yet? If not, that may well take care of the tightness, if not, remove the damper cap and add a 0.003" shim. If you don't have a shim, contact me at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

New tie rod ends can be tight at steep near limit angles. Or even good used ones. If you can move them by hand, don't worry about it. You can check this theory by putting the stands under the suspension to get them more in "working" position (but maybe not without the anchor in place!).

From your description, it's the ends, not anything else.

Possible that it is the inner ball joints, since once connected both ends of the tie rod have to swivel. Also you get to feel the total of all 4 joints. Check by moving them around at travel limits. Again, if you can move it by hand without struggle, OK.
If John thought it was OK, don't worry about it.

Note that in all the BS re grease or oil in racks, one function of the oil is to oil these inner ball joints, and grease WILL NOT do it! I have taken greased racks apart and found dry & rusty inner joints despite boots being full of grease.

I have in the past resorted to greasing good used "non greasable" ends - old grease hardens up and restricts free motion at the limits, after which it wears out. Remove boots, tighten end in a vise with taper up, clamp pin to force it down against the preload spring, and force grease by hand around the ball. like packing a wheel bearing. Release C clamp and wriggle ball stud around, repeat if necessary. Pack boots with grease and refit boots. Will last pretty well forever if you do this anytime you have them off.

FRM
FR Millmore

Dave, thanks for the shim offer but I think I have the problem fixed. I followed up on FR's advice about the steep angles with no load on the front wheels. I also called Twist he said basically the same thing. He recommended lowering the front end with weight on the wheels and to put a couple sheets of wax paper under the tires so that they would turn easily from side to side to determine if there is any tightness in the rack. So I did that and couldn't feel any tightness. I just happened to have two smooth 1/4" steel plates to put the wax paper on. Allowed the tires to turn very easy! Good trick to remember.

Thanks again for your help guys,
Tom
Tom Custer

This thread was discussed between 23/06/2009 and 26/06/2009

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