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MG MGB Technical - Headlight Switch

How to I take the headlight switch out of the dash of my '74 mgb roadster (see picture with red arrow below). The headlights come on with the "move over" switch but not with the panel switch. I'm guessing the switch is bad or some wires have come loose. I can reach the back of the switch but I can't figure out what to do to make it come out. Does it come out toward the driver or away from the driver?

Thanks.

Jud



J. K. Chapin

Haven't had one out of a B but on my Lotus with similar rocker switches, the switches have a lock in tag on the top and bottom of the switch
If you reach up to the back of the switch and with a finger on top and thumb underneath, squash the tags in and the switch should then push out toward the driver
Hope this helps
willy
William Revit

Willy, thanks. Now at least I know what to try.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

G'day Jud,

Noting your following remark on your temp issue: "I do have a small suspicion regarding the wire and spade clip attachment to the existing sending unit and will reexamine (and maybe resolder) it carefully."

Perhaps take a look at the wire connection to the temp gauge while your behind the dash with this issue.

Regards
Roger
R Taylor

Jud, At least on the UK dash with the same switches, they usually pop out with a bit of a push from behind, but be careful the switch supply is always live with battery connected. The "move over" switch I assume is the headlamp flasher. This takes a separate 12v supply so is not affected by the switch. The switch main beam contacts carry quite a load, somewhere around 10 amps, and the arcing burns them out eventually. Many people, me included, put relays on the headlamp circuits to take the load off the switch. This has the added benefit of making your lights brighter!!
Allan Reeling

Padded-dash switches with the bright bezel have tabs that lock into the bezel, and the bezel has tabs that lock into the dash. There were U-shaped tools that slid over the end of first the bezel then the switch to depress these tabs, to come out towards the driver. I understand they are a lot trickier to remove than the RHD rocker switches, where often they can be wiggled out just using finger-nails from the front, and failing that by reaching behind and squeezing first one pair of tabs then the other to wiggle them out.
paulh4

Meant to attach this


paulh4

Allan, thanks for the reminder. I have a master switch that shuts the battery off from everything.

Paul, I'm not sure what kind if switch I have but, knowing the PO, it's probably the more complex one. I'll give it a try and let you know.


Roger, good thought, I'll take a look while I'm upside down and backwards under the dash.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

A pillow on the pedals - worked for me.

Regards
Roger
R Taylor

Took the B to our club garage this morning and the third guy to try was able to get the damned switch out. The switch tested bad with an ohm meter and hot wiring the wires together proved that the lights and wiring to them work just fine. Guess I'm ordering a new switch. I'll probably order Moss through LBC unless someone has had a particularly bad experience with what Moss offers.

Thanks for y'all's help.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

I don't think it'll be particularly bad, but don't expect the replacement to last anywhere near as long as an original. I replaced all my switches when I restored my roadster 30 years ago as the logos had got a bit worn. Some years later the new switch got intermittent - as well as the logo wearing, but I had kept the original and put that back and it has been fine ever since. This is on a car where the lights are rarely used anyway! To paraphrase Joseph Lucas being a gentleman I don't motor at night ...
paulh4

I'm with you and Joe. I want the switch to work just because it's there. I motor at night only in cases of extremis.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

This thread was discussed between 08/02/2019 and 17/02/2019

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