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MG MGB Technical - JB Weld on clutch linkage ?

Is there a reason why it would not be wise to use JB Weld to fill in an elongated push rod on the master cylinder? My clutch is fine, and the hydraulics do not leak, but the slop in the pedal is most annoying. I like the idea of JBW because you can leave everything hooked up and in the car, where as to weld it would require removal.
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Carl Holm

A new one is $13 from Moss. Fix it right the first time and you won't have to worry about the JBGlue coming off and jamming at the worst possible moment.
gerry masterman

I have a new one to go in, but I had hoped to leave it alone, rather than risk a new leak. I had hoped to use JB because it is non intrusive. Mechanically there is enough material there that if the JB popped off I would be no worse off than before.
Carl Holm

Don't you have to remove the pushrod to properly apply the JBGlue anyway? My advice is not to waste your time. It doesn't take that long to fix it correctly, and much more permanently.
Jeff.

Jeff Schlemmer

Carl - A couple of thoughts. 1) to do it right with the JB Weld, you would have to take the linkage off and clean it of every litle bit of dirt or oil if you expect the JB Weld to hold. 2) While the JB Weld might work for awhile, it is going to wear much faster than the original material. I agree with Gerry, get a new push rod and fix the thing properly. If fussing with the push rod causes a leak, then you were not far away from that leak anyway. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Carl,
If all you want to do is take the slop out of the pedal freeplay for the short term, grind the threads off of a 5/16" or 3/8" bolt (depending on slop)or cut a bolt with a long grip to suit, swab a little grease, drop it into the slot between clutch pedal end and the pushrod fork, and it takes up all of the slack. Not recommended for the long haul, though.
You may find that the clutch pedal hole has some wear as well. I insert a copper dowel into the clutch pedal and pushrod holes, then fill in the worn section with plow steel rod which provides an incredibly tough journal surface. The weldment doesn;t stick to the copper, and it leaves a nearly burr-free hole when removed.
Mark Childers

Mark-Plow steel? I have used spring steel wire and a oxy/acetlyne torch to build things like that in the past. Spring steel welds good as long as you don't get it too hot and maintain a slightly rich flame. When it cools it is hard and wears very well.
gerry masterman

Carl,

Just did this on my car. I'm not sure why it would risk a leak to replace the push rod. I didn't have to remove the master cylinder from the car. (I had removed the pedal.)

If you pull the rubber boot back, you'll see the push rod is just held in with a snap ring. Hold the piston in with a small screwdriver, pop the ring out and the push rod is in your hands. Have an assistant swap the boot onto the new pushrod, because you'll be holding the piston.

It really is very simple, and there's nothing like the peace of mind from having fixed something once and for all.
Matt Kulka

Carl, I am in agreement that JB weld is not the way to go longterm in this situation.

I had this sort of elongation on both of my m/c pushrods and simply filled them with steel rod (for the Brake m/c) and Brazing rod for the Clutch rod and then rebored the holes. With a tad of lube, they are both still working well with minimal slop after 13yrs daily use. I doubt you'd get that from JB weld.

JB weld is much better at holding things in place or filling structural voids than it is as any sort of bearing surface. If you were wanting to use JB weld to hold a bushing in place in an irregular and way oversized hole in the clutch M/C rod, I would think you could get by for quite a while. But not to replace the bearing surface. JMO
Bob Muenchausen

This thread was discussed between 28/03/2002 and 29/03/2002

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