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MG MGB Technical - Repair panel

Just when I thought I was finally ready for the MoT I noticed a spot of rust that quickly turned into this: http://spostins.photosite.com/GT/. As I fight back the tears, can anyone tell me I'm likely to need an MB77 inner wheelarch repair panel or/and the HZA276 damper mounting plate? Anything else whilst I place yet another parts order? So far it's been steering rack, kingpin, brake hoses, brake lines, rear spring hanger, sidelight, indicator, hazard switch, four tyres, fanbelt, top hose, caliper rebuild, ignition circuit and a dozen associated items. The car was running fine three weeks ago! I'm tired now and am going to sedate myself. Thanks.
Steve Postins

If thats the sum total , I would put a plate on it for a driver (if you mean to show the car then replace the whole panel). The fact you have posted some catalogue drawings of the rail repair sectio indicatse its a bit worse than the photo shows. I think it might still be lot easier to plate the inner wheel arch if you replace the rail/shocker mount.. When I replaced the other half ( the outer wheel arch) It was a pig to fit.
S Best

Plating sounds goos as it's a daily driver so I'm looking for the best easy solution. I'm hoping that that's the extent of the rust but I wasn't sure if the "HZA276 damper mounting plate" on the right of the three line drawings, is a repair panel or a something more fundamental. MGOC don't carry it any longer but Moss have them in stock for a fiver so I'll order one in case it make the job easier.

In the meantime I'm scratching my head as to why the o/s back brakes are still refusing to function after changing the springs, shoes, handbrake adjuster, wheel cylinder, brake drum and axle oil seal. This man and machine are not in harmony just now! I'll really feel I've earned my MoT certificate this time if I ever get it.
Steve Postins

If I get up to the garage tonight I will look at the damper mount. Re the brakes, you may have done what I did once and got the springs on wrong. If you have some help you could dismantle the mechanical parts and see if the piston moves when you pump the pedal. If it does not and the n/s one works , then it's hydraulic and between the T piece and wheel.If the piston moves then it must be assembled wrongly , or wildly out of adjustment. In fact the easist way to start is remove the drum and watch what happens when you push the pedal. I have a mirror from an old bathroom cabinet in the garage that sometimes lets you do stuff like this on your own.
S Best

Steve, I'd be in favour of plating this as well but if I were you I'd take a sharp chisel and cut the area out until all the rusty metal was gone. Then make a card template to fit and cut the plate shaping it to overlap about 3/8 all round. Joggle the edges and wels continuously in place. Prima an paint and inject behind and it will last forever.
Iain MacKintosh

Thanks guys. I decided that having a 1st class welder/mechanic in the village I'm going to hand the task to him as at present everything I touch ends up in pieces.
I will however fix that brake, just because I'm stubborn. I put on new shoes last night and switched the adjuster and drum with the opposite side, having checked that the pistons were moving OK and that the springs were right. The problem was gone for 100yds and back within 200. I'm thinking I may have a leaky replacement brake cylinder, as there was some staining along the edge of the shoes I took off. I'm going to replace it for the second time and hope that's the end of it.
Steve Postins

This thread was discussed between 24/05/2005 and 26/05/2005

MG MGB Technical index

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