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MG MGB Technical - steering wheel puller?

I received a new MG club wheel as a generous christmas present. When I finnaly found time to fit it last weekend I found that the old (factory fitted) wheel wont come off. Will I need a steering wheel puller or does any body know of a cheaper Heath Robinson approach to my problem? car is a RB 1978 GT.
nik lea

Nik

the safest route is to use a gear puller. The 3 arms will catch behind the hub of the steering wheel nicely and slowly turn the top nut with a ratchet. SLOW is the word else you are liable to end up with the whole lot in your face when the bevelled splines finally let go.

It is worth giving a little squirt of WD 40 just to ease the operation.

Make sure you have the wheel s straight before you start and mark the column end with a little corecting fluid to help lining up the new wheel.

I tried a couple of Heath Robinson methods using g-clamps and extension bars and spent a couple of frustrated hours.

The gear puller (which was less than £10) did the job in less time than it took the kettle to boil. Well worth it.

A new steering wheel certainly makes a difference. Happy changing

Paul
Paul Ingles

Nik:

Generally a puller would be ideal, Though I've never used one.

Here's the method I always employ (and has worked for me in all different applications).

Take off the center wheel cover and expose the nut. Back the nut off till its flush with the end of the shaft (not leaving any threads exposed). Tap the center progressively and pull on the wheel at the same time. Don't tap too hard as the shaft is collapsible and you don't want to damage it. Also tap on the rear of the wheel at different sides (best done with a leather sided mallet or plexi mallet so as not to damage the wheel. Leave the nut on as you pull so that the wheel, when it finally dislodges, doesn't end up in your face.

If the above doesn't work, head to your local auto parts store as they usually have pullers you can rent.

Good luck,

Luis
Luis

Nik

Like Paul, I used a three legged gear puller, but left the nut on the end of the shaft. I just tightened the puller with a spanner and tapped the end with a hammer. After two or three goes the steering wheel came off, retained safely on the shaft by the nut.

Peter
Peter Scott

I used Luis's method when I did mine last spring. I also used PB Blaster penetrant and let it sit for about 1/2 hr. One tap and it was free. Applied anti-seize to the splines prior to new wheel install.

Mike
'79B
Mike Janacek

Both have mine have come off by applying pressure behind the rin with my knees, undoing the nut a little, and tapping the shaft with a medium hammer.
Paul Hunt

Thanks for all your help I will have another go this weekend.
regards nik
nik

Last time I did this I used the two tapped holes in the steering wheel. I just took a short-3 1/2 inch piece of flat 1/4 inch thick steel and drilled two holes -larger than the bolts-the same distance apart as the two tapped holes. I loosened the big nut to the end of the threads then screwed in a bolt thru each hole in the strap of steel which is now across the top of the shaft and nut.The bolt must be of a length which will bottom out across the bolts's head onto the steel strap before they bottom out in the tapped holes on the steering wheel. Tighten each bolt a little at a time and the wheel is drawn off the shaft. An alternative would be to use longer bolts and a nut on each to act as the stop to draw the wheel off. I messed up a previous column by using the hammer approach. It deformed the steering shaft bushings.
Thomas Rynne

This thread was discussed between 15/02/2002 and 19/02/2002

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