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MG MGB Technical - Steering wheel removal

I have a 1977 MGB on which I have to replace the turn signal/horn/H-L beam switch which requires removal of the steering wheel. Is there a special wheel puller required? Any advice and or suggestions appreciated. No known MGB owners in my area to share info or tools with. :(

Emailing direct to mtpockit@bellsouth.net would not a problem.

Thanks, Jim
Jim Harris

Tons of info in the archives about steering wheel removal. Some will say brace the bottom of the wheel with your knees and, using a rubber mallet or deadfall hammer, tap on the top of the hub (after using Liquid Wrench or similar substance). I bought a steering wheel remover at Auto Zone, not expensive, but had to change the removal bolts as they were to big to fit through the spaces on the hub. It worked and there was less danger of damage to the hub or collapsible steering column. As an aside, I was able to remove the plastic shroud on my 74.5 MGB and work on the directional switch without removing the wheel, I don't know if there is a difference with the 77.
John

Jim:

Sorry mate, but this is one of the onerous tasks on a late model MGB.

The steering wheel hub is steel, and tends to get frozen to the splines. Earlier cars had alloy hubs and don't have the same problem.

It's difficult to get a puller that will not damage the rubberized back of the wheel and I have not heard of anyone developing a specialized tool, though it would be a good idea. If you can get a puller on the wheel, use it to apply pressure, but do not try to use the puller to force the wheel off. You have to break the bonded splines by either impact or heat first.

Get a good release solvent down the splines and let it sit for a few days. I have had luck using impact to break loose the bond. Leave the nut loose, then get your knees under the wheel to put some pressure on it. A solid blow with a "deadblow" hammer on the center of the shaft will sometimes do the trick. In absolute worst cases I've had to use heat, which requires great care to keep all the plastic and vinyl protected with wet towels. I found using the concentrated heat of an oxy acetlyene torch got a lot of heat very quickly onto the shaft without the heat transfer that lower temperature torches would create. Hit the shaft with the flame for a short time, then let it cool. The differential expansion should be enough to break the bond.

Good luck, and don't set fire to your car. Use anti-seize when reassembling.

Kelvin Dodd
KJ Dodd

Thanks to all who responded. I received this info from an email I received and it truly did work. Passing it along in case someone else faces the same problem. Many thanks to "Rog" for the advice.


"As you have observed the standard off the shelf puller fails to get a proper grip and this has led to many specialists making up their own pullers. This is needed more so on the later cars as it is easy to pull too hard on the rim by hand and dislodge and damage the column. However often a degree of uneven pulling can crack the seal that is holding it on. Firstly loosen but do not remove the wheel. Leave enough thread engaged so that it will prevent the wheel coming off when pulled and giving you a new smile! Next hold the wheel at 9 and 3 o-clock positions and pull towards you first on one side then the other and oscillate this pulling. This uneven pulling often helps break the seal and it will pop the wheel."

Rog
Jim Harris

Just did this job on my 68 B-GT....you do not have to pull the wheel off to replace the switch. Its a little tricky to remove the two piece plastic cowl. You first have to remove the bolts holding the steering column in place and lower the column about 3-4". Then you can wangle out the two pieces.
It can be done.
Make sure you have the right switch unit. I bought one on ebay and found it was for a later model of column. Somewhere in time they changed the column diameter. A little grinding with a Dremel tool soon fixed it.
Colin Stafford

This thread was discussed on 20/05/2005

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