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MG MGB Technical - Tight Steering?

Hello Everyone,

I ned some help with figuring why my '67 GT steering is so stiff. This problem has been with the car since I've owned it. I drove a friends MGB the other day and couldn't believe how easy it was to steer.
What I've done so far:

-Rebuilt the front end
-New poly bushes throughout
-New front springs
-Tire pressure 30 front and 32 rear
-Steering column bushes replaced

Granted, I'm running a smaller diameter steering wheel but it sure is stiff to steer. With the front of the car off the ground, the rack moves back and forth easily.

Any thought?

Steve
Steve Brooks

What size tyres do you have?
Simon Jansen

Steve - The cars came with a 15 inch steering wheel for a reason. I quit using a beautiful Nardi 13 inch steering wheel for exactly the same reason. The 15 inch wheel made all the difference in the world. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

The steering should lighten up at any speed , much above walking pace. The 7 deg castor makes it very heavy below that.
S Best

Why did the MGB have such a massive castor angle compared to other cars?
Simon Jansen

Simon...I'm running P185 75R14 tires front and rear.

David...Going back to a larger steering wheel is being considered.

Steve
Steve Brooks

Both my cars (GT & Roadster) have 14" motolitas fitted and whilst heavy are just about acceptable. They both feel pretty well identical for weight so I assume that there is no fault in either. You've rebuilt the front end so presumably have fitted new king pins, bushes and thrusts. Whilst you can turn the rack easily with the weight off it is important that the thrusts are adequately greased (top nipple)otherwise parking will be impossibly heavy.

I recently drove a reasonably modern European saloon car which did not have power steering fitted and it was far heavier than my MGs. I don't think that a smaller than 14" wheel would be acceptable.
Iain MacKintosh

One of the reasons I have kept the 165/80 rubber is to keep the steering light on the 67 (with the 16' wheel). I have a 74 and I do not notice it being a hard steer though. I am running 175/70's on that but the 185/70's would work just as well. What are the specs of you friend's car?
Carl W French

Steve

The plastic bush at the bottom of the steering column can bind and give exactly the symptoms you describe. This happened to mine after the bush was renewed. There was no stiffness when the wheels were off the ground. I had to ream the new bush until it was an easy fit on the column.
C Linn

Are you sure the toe-in is right? I had 5 mm on my 64 MGB, and when adjusted professionally by computer to 1.5 mm the steering was much lighter, even at quite low speeds. Never expected it to make such a difference.

Tore
Tore

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone,

-On my GT, the plastic bushing is at the top of the column, right near the steering wheel. This has been replaced, The bottom felt bushing has not.
-I did do a quick alignment last weekend, and I found I was toed out, so a got the alignment as close to factory specs as I could. I will book some alignment time at the local British Motor Classics.
The quick alignment did help somewhat, she seems easier to steer especially at low speeds!
Let's see what a professional alignment does.

Thanks,

Steve
Steve Brooks

Jack up the front and try again. It will probably be lighter, but it should be as light as a feather and fly from lock to lock without any resistance (don't bang it on the locks). Any stiffness felt now is a problem, which could be in the column, UJ, rack, track-rod ends, or king-pins. You may need to disconnect various bits to find out which.
Paul Hunt

Steve,

Has the car ever been in a fender bender accident? I had the problem you speak of. Replaced all of the same stuff you described. Thook the car to a pro for professional alignment. It all checked out, and I got rid of a vibration at speed that was present, but steering was stiff and tight. The car, a 67 B roadster had been in a bumper bender accident with damage extending into the inner fender apron or splash shield. That was repaired and the car then checked on a Genisis frame rack. All well as to front frame alignment. After much frustration the problem was found. A twisted front frame cross member. The front shock mounting pad is part of this member. After removal of the cross member, found the two sides ( right & left shock pads) were not identical and on the same plane. Therefore the shocks and their arms were at different angles affecting the steering geometry. Now it turns real easy and is a joy to drive. Good luck

Jim
Jim Hanks

Have you checked the shims in the bottom of the rack ? Removing one will make it tighter, adding one will loosen it up.
Al
Al McMillan

This thread was discussed between 22/11/2004 and 26/11/2004

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