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MG MGB Technical - Tools - Torque Wrench


I was thinking it's about time I got a decent torque wrench. Can anyone recommend what kind of ranges of torques are useful for working on MGs?

e.g. what would be best of of this sort of range:
Draper 1/2 Square Drive Torque Wrench 30 - 210Nm
Draper 3/8 Square Drive Torque Wrench 10 - 80Nm
Draper 3/4 Square Drive Torque Wrench 70 - 395Nm
Draper 3/8 Square Drive Torque Wrench 5 - 22Nm
Draper 3/8 Square Drive Torque Wrench 15 - 50Nm
Draper 1/2 Square Drive Torque Wrench 30 - 100Nm
Draper 1/2 Square Drive Torque Wrench 50 - 180Nm
Draper 1/2 Square Drive Torque Wrench 70 - 230Nm
Draper 3/4 Square Drive Torque Wrench 120 - 400Nm

Cheers,
Jamie
jamieo

Get yourself one that is calibrated in Ft Lbs between 20 and 140 if you can find one. I use two, one 3/8 inch drive for between 10 and 60 ft lbs and one 1/2 inch drive with a long handle for between 45 and 200.
Chris Betson


Ah found one then that does 22-155 lb/ft, great.

Any recommendations for socket sizes? I need a new socket set too - tool time ;)

Jamie
jamieo

A good set of AF sockets - most popular sizes are 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 1", 1" 1/16, 1" 5/16
Chris Betson

Went into Halfords recently on a Sunday afternoon to get a socket to remove the steering wheel (was fitting a Mountney).
I couldn't see Imperial sockets so asked the 'Technical Advisor' behind the counter. "No, don't do those, only got Metric" Well, after asking what the closest one would be for 1" since I couldn't see a 25.4mm I was offered a 27mm and assured it would fit. As I was leaving, noticed a locked display cabinet with Imperial sockets and spanners in! Needless to say, I got my 1" socket but one wonders about the 'advice' given.
Martin

What did you expect from Halfords? If it wasn't made by Ford, VAG or BMW and/or it's more than 5 years old they will know sweet FA on the subject. Also, I reckon that their tools aren't exactly priced to sell either.
Tim Cuthill

You should try to buy a click torque wrench where the torque you will 'usually' be using it at will fall in the middle of the tool's torque range. For head torquing I use a torque wrench with 20/80 lbs adjusting range. The upper and lower 25% range on a torque wrench is generally not very accurate on the 'clicker' type of wrenches. A beam wrench is more accurate over the entire range. I have several torque wrenches depending on the job. Remember to always zero them out after you are finished with them and never use them to loosen anything.
datsooonmike

Mike. One of the advantages of the beam type wrench is, specifically, that it is designed to read torque both when tightening and loosening. Twice this feature has been of service to me. Once, I lost a piston on an A-H 100, sending a rod through the block. Checking the other three rods (they had the bolt at the small end) demonstrated that it was a machine shop error. They had torqued the small ends to twice the required torque value which seemed to be the cause of the rod breaking. Replaced all the rods before starting a rebuild on a spare block.

I just removed the wheels from my 79. They were installed by Discount Tires, who claim to use a "torque bar" with their impact wrenches, to prevent over torqing, then do the final tightening with a torque wrench. Either operator error or the system does not work. Took between 120-150 lbft to break the lug nuts loose.

While I greatly appreciate the convenience of the clicking type wrench, on assembly, the ability to determine approximately what torque a bolt or nut breaks loose at makes the beam type wrench worth owning.

Like you, I have several torque wrenches and find I use all of them. I suspect most of us do as we learn more about mechanical work and want to extend what we can do. Les
Les Bengtson

Martin,

:) Actually I went into Halfords the other week for a socket to remove my steering wheel (I didn't have one big enough). I was also told they didn't stock non-metric tools, but had a couple of full socket sets with a mixture in. I didn't expect them to have anything, just worth a try.

The guy I spoke to was in his 60's, and said "what do you want it for, are you restoring a classic car?". I told him and he said he had the right size at home and if I'd call in the next weekend (he only worked weekends) he'd bring it in for me. It's rare to see someone so helpful in that kind of shop these days.

Jamie
jamieo

Jamie
You can try
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/ranges.asp?g=111&r=2073

Frosts also do a range including Metrinch which you can use for both.

Paul
Paul

<<<snip>>>
What did you expect from Halfords? If it wasn't made by Ford, VAG or BMW and/or it's more than 5 years old they will know sweet FA on the subject.
<<<snip>>>
Home of the MG and you have the same problem I have. Just substitute: "you expect from Advance? It if wasn't made by Ford, GM, or Chrysler and/or it's more than 10 years old they will know sweat FA on the subject?

The click types are more expansive, not as accurate (check the specs!), and need periodic recalibrating. For most hobbyists, the beam type is entirely satisfactory.

Blake
With both types.
Blake

This thread was discussed between 06/01/2003 and 10/01/2003

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