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MG MGF Technical - Oil Change

I've had my F for nearly 6 months now, it as done just over 5K miles, mainly longish motorway journeys.

Do I need to start thinking about an oil change, and if so, what oil is recommended and is this something that I can attempt myself without worrying about causing HGF or anything else. I'd hate to line my dealers pockets for something I (or the other half) could do easily!

Any advice appreciated!

Maria HV51 RZD
Maria White

If you are planning to keep the car for a long time (more than five years) then it may be an advantage to change the oil every six months or so; else you may as well stick to the manufacturer's service schedule.
There's also the warranty to consider; if you have the car serviced - esp. by the supplying dealer - at the recommended interval then you should get all warranty issues resolved without problems.
Oil changes by themselves are easy enough to do; A torque wrench should be used to refit the sump plug (and most other nuts etc on the car).
You won't cause a HGF with an oil change - although it is possible to cause considerable damage if care is not taken.

Steve
Steve

>although it is possible to cause considerable damage if care is not taken.

Errm like don't run the car without oil in it.... what else?
Some tricks
1) losten the oil filter and the sump plug when cold, then retighten to hand tight
2) run engine to heat up oil (65/70 deg will make it runnier but not take your skin off if your careless
3) drain oil - always use latex gloves and prevent oil (especially used oil) from reaching your skin
4) pour oil into the new oil filter before refitting (prevents oil starvation when starting for the first time)
5) put the correct amount of oil in the engine (see your handbook) - and rember it is easier to top up than down!
6) the dipstick has a max and a min level - get the oil between these (head for the max but don't overfill) these levels are 1 litre apart
7) you can fill the engine from the top up point (accesable from the boot) but it will take some time for the oil to drain down (remove the dipstick first and plug the dipstickk hole with kitchen roll
8) errm 8 anyone?
Will

All sounds like good advice - the only thing is what oil should I use for the change, and what oil should I use as a top up in the meantime?
Maria White

>>
7) you can fill the engine from the top up point (accesable from the boot) but it will take some time for the oil to drain down (remove the dipstick first and plug the dipstickk hole with kitchen roll
8) errm 8 anyone?
<<

8. ... but it is easier and quicker to re-fill the engine from the oil filler cap found on top of the engine cam cover.
9. ALWAYS remember to refit the sump drain plug BEFORE refilling the engine. Not only will this prevent an oily mess on your driveway, but it'll also ensure that you don't unintentionally run the engine without any oil in it ;o)

Someone else can think of #10 ;o))
Rob Bell

Met a bloke once who had the sump plug fall off his TVR Tuscan at speed. Spectacular effects on the engine, apparently.
David Bainbridge

Ouch!
Rob Bell

I had a holed sump in an underfloor engined coach - and it had no warning devices for lack of oil or pressure - just a big bang as a piston came through the side of the engine and hit the underside of the coach floor - my passenger were found sitting in the luggage racks.

Ted
Ted Newman

10 Dispose of the oil in an environmentally friendly way. Your local tip will probably take it off your hands.

Bruce
Bruce Caldwell

>>Errm like don't run the car without oil in it.... what else?<<

I cross-threaded the sump plug on a motorcycle :-(
Not as catastrophic as the plug falling out on a running engine, but certainly careless!
I've also heard cases of people cracking alloy sumps (the MGF's is aluminium, I believe).

As for oil types, use any well-known car-type synthetic or semi-synthetic (such as Mobil 1). Use the same oil for topping up.

Steve
Steve

This thread was discussed on 31/05/2002

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