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MG TD TF 1500 - A-Arm Bushings

Hi All,

Is it possible to install new A-arm bushings without removing the tie rods, just sort of letting things dangle while the work is being done?

Also, is there a source for the steering gearbox boots (gaitors) that are split so the tie rods don't need to be disconnected to replace them (I remember CV joint boots were available that way for my VWs in the distant past).

Thanks, Greg
TF 6846 XPEG 797
Greg Van Hook

You dont have to remove the tie rods to replace the A frame bushings. I just added an MGB anti sway bar to my TD and replaced the bushings in the process. Just support the brake assembly so you dont damage the hydraulic brake line. I used an additional jack stand for that job. I left the top part connected to the shock absorber.
There are no VW type spilt gator boots available for the T cars that I know of. The tie rods have to be removed to install the boots.
Jim Merz

Greg
I remember the problem I had removing the tie rod ends from the steering arms on my MGB. Brute force with a ten pound hammer eventually won the day! However, all you need to do to renew the gaiters is to loosen the TRE lock nuts and unscrew the tie rods using self grip pliers, having noted the number of threads so you can re-connect the steering as before.
John James

Thanks guys, that's very helpful.

Can you recommend which bushings to use? I see Moss sells different kinds, and haven't I seen MGB bushings used?

Thanks again, Greg

Greg Van Hook

Greg,

I believe that we used MGB V8 bushings in my TD. I know they are in the MGB and the MGA. They are firmer and wear better. Put them in the freezer overnight the night before, to shrink fit them.

Cheers from just down River Road (and hope the weather keeps improving),

Ira
Ira Spector (PA)

Greg
Go for the V8 bushes MGB part number BHH1123 which, if memory serves me right, are made from black rubber surrounding a steel bush. The stiffness of the coloured nylon types could give too harsh a ride.
John
John James

John
Next time you have to break a taper eg tie rod ends try using two hammers, one either side this is quite a common method and they usually come apart quite easily.
When replacing steering rack boots,if you wind a piece of masking tape around the tie rod ajacent to the nut before removing same it ensures that it goes back in the same place, even so it is still a good idea to check the wheel alignment afterwards to make sure that the wheels are aligned paralell eg neither toeing in or out.

Harry
H.E.W. Walker

A spray bomb of quick drying black paint sprayed on the tie rods and the steering rack, prior to diassembly, will accurately show where the tie rods have to be set when you reinstall them. It worked for me.
Gene Burgess

OK,
Just so I know what I'm getting into, (this isn't real clear in the manuals):

I don't have to remove the tie rod ends from the steering arms to change the boots? The tie rods will rotate inside their sockets in the steering rack once the nut that is snugged up against the tie rod end is loosened (e.g., I'll be spinning the tie rod to unthread it from the tie rod end rather than spinning the tie rod end to unthread it from the tie rod)? It must be the former, otherwise the tie rod ends would have to be removed to adjust toe-in/out.

Also, regarding the tie rod ends: in the Moss catalog there are old and new style. Are they both a tapered fit into the steering arm? What does "old" and "new" mean - does this refer to production changes or is the new type just a "modern" replacement?

Thanks again,
Greg
Greg Van Hook

Just answered one of my own questions - it was in the manual. "Slacken the steering tie-rod nuts and screw the tie rods out of the steering ball joints by means of the flats on the rod."

Greg
Greg Van Hook

Harry
The ten pounder was needed because the double hammer method didn't work. (Not enough mass to pop the pip). How was Stoneleigh? I'm still trying to find a set of brake shoes to reline and have as spares.
John
John James

Didn't I read somewhere, thought it was on this BBS, that someone used a gear puller to pop out the ball joint/tie rod end from the steering arm from below?

Greg
Greg Van Hook

On Mini's and MGB's I always use a (universal) special tool for steering ball-joints. You can buy it at every automotive-tool seller in several sizes for not too much money. It gives a terrific satisfying bang when the tension releases! (I don't have the time now to think of the words to explain in English how it works, but I like it much better than the two hammer approach)
Willem van der Veer

I use a lever action ball joint and tie rod end remover. Available from J.C. Whitney for about 18 dollars. After years of pickle forks and large hammers, I can remove most any tie rod with ease and not much damage. Mike
mike barnes

In the trade, we hit the side of the arm that the pin is in, hard, with a large hammer.Loosen the nut 1st.To set the toe, & center the steering wheel, run a string from the rear wheel past the front as close to the axle line as possible.
Len Fanelli


John

Stoneleigh was very successful as far as sales went { I always have a stall there ], however there wasn't a great deal of "T" Type bits and pieces this year, neither could I find a RH Front Bumper section for an MGA that I need. Regarding brake shoes the TD and TF are the same and I am pretty certain that "Y"
Models are also the same ones. Looking at the illustrations in my parts books all three look exacly identical although they do bear different part numbers, but as these are original BMC parts books the numbers may have been superceded
It might be worth trying Bryan Purves at East Grinstead
Tel 01342 31 5063 for secondhand brake shoes, if he hasn't got any I was told recently that he has an acquaintence that has several secondhand TD and TF bits, so he mmay be able to help you

Harry
H.E.W. Walker

Greg

Removing ball joints without a real struggle or damaging them can be accomplished with a simple tool that makes the removal very easy. I took a look around the Internet trying to get a picture of one for you but the best I could find was one available from England. The link is:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040211222&r=2076&g=111

I purchased a very similar looking one from a tool outlet where I live (in Canada) and it was not expensive but worked beautifully with no damage to the ball joint.

Brian
Brian Smith

Thanks Brian. That's what I need. I think I saw a similar one in Moss. I'll check it out.

Greg
Greg Van Hook

Brian & Greg - The same tool is available from Triple C at http://www.triple-c.com, although the price was somewhat greater than what one could get it from Machine Mart in the UK, even with the exchange rate and shipping. Good luck - Dave
PS The tool works great!
David DuBois

Brian,

That the tool I use! Thanks.
Willem van der Veer

Is the general rule to replace the A arm bushings with the MGB V8 style and not the urethane style. I am restoring a 54 TF and need to purchase new bushings. Thanks.

John
John Progess

Greg

The link below is the tool that I have used and is very cheap to purchase. It took some searching.

http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=13287

Copy this address into your browser and you will get right to the tool page.

Brian
Brian Smith

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2004 and 28/02/2004

MG TD TF 1500 index

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