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MG TD TF 1500 - Another fuel tank sealer question

OK, I've read the threads on POR15 and other miracle sealers. Here's the issue: I need to open the tank, no question, because I'll never get the sealant out of the baffles. But If I take my tank to have it cut open and sandblasted to get back to bare metal at the best shop here in Tucson, the shop guys there said the only treatment they do after they strip it is to add "red" sealer to it. Sounds like some generic coating.
Would I be better to just have them take it to bare metal, and add POR15 myself? Or should I find someplace that can zinc phosphate coat it? Or... or... what?
Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffery - When I restored our TD in i980, I used an aircraft sloshing compound to seal the tank. It was supposed to be the best thing on the market at the time and it did a good job up until about 10 years ago, when the latest formulation of fuel attacked the sealer, causing it to dissolve and redeposit itself on the fuel pump valve disks and the carburetor needle valves, gluing everything together. When I had the tank cleaned out, I asked about a sealer to put in it again and was told that the best approach was a good thick layer of zinc phosphate that pretty much lasts forever (all I need is about 30 years and I won't care anymore). The only problem with the zinc phosphate is that all the finish on the tank has to come off, inside and out to do it. The results were impressive - the coating of zinc phosphate left a sort of fuzzy finish to the metal that will absorb the oils in the fuel to aid in keeping the rust at bay. The painter who refinished the exterior of the tank liked it too as is provided a great 'tooth' for the paint to adhere to. The only down side is that if the tank is left in the solution too long, it ends up eating away the brass drain and outlet fittings welded in the bottom of the tank - I had to replace them when I go the tank back. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

Dave how did you replace the brass fittings? Would not any heat applied during the process compromise the zinc phosphate coating in close proximity to the fitting.

The reason I ask is that I am very lethargic to using a sealing compound on my TF tank after yours and others misfortunes.

G Evans

I used the Bill Hirsch tank sealer. It is alcohol compatible, leaves a thin coating. It "sloshed" around inside the tank very easily. Getting the tank cleaned of loose rust was the hardest part of the operation. Just do not put MEK in the tank after, as it is the solvent.

4 years now and no problems. fuel filter is absolutely clean.

C.R. Tyrell

I used the same stuff in my Sunbeam Alpine's tanks, CR, and that was over 28 years ago... still no problems with those tanks (and Alpine tanks are notoriously leaky).
Kevin McLemore

I did bill hitsch's as well..only 1 driving season however..but no issues in that short time. Regards, tom
tm peterson

This thread was discussed between 03/12/2014 and 04/12/2014

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