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MG TD TF 1500 - Broken Steering Wheel Spokes
|Two of the spokes of the 10 o'clock set on my steering wheel are broken at the hub end. It seems that there is a great tendancy to lean on the wheel at the 10 o'clock position. I see two choices. One is to see if they can be welded, even though they're not steel. It'll be a shame to mess up the original paint on the hub, but that's the price. The other is to rotate the wheel 120 degrees CW by means of the pinion flanges. The issue there is one of rotating the emblem in the centerpiece. Any suggestions? TIA. Bud Krueger|
The centerpiece is held on by an oval headed screw at about the 8 o'clock position which threads into a cylinder shaped piece on the back of the centerpiece. Strike 1.
The medallion chrome outer ring is a press-on fit - use a sharp knife to pry it off (carefully of course). BUT, the chrome ring and medallion are slotted to fit a molded key on the inside of the centerpiece. Strike 2.
BUT, if you were to cut a new slot on the medallion allowing it to rotate within the chrome ring you might succeed. Careful alignment of the medallion then may solve your problem without having to drill anything. But, the oval headed screw holding the entire centerpiece will then be shifted to a new location (something like 10 o'clock) when you rotate the steering wheel CW. If your rotate the wheel 120 degrees CCW (or is it anti-clockwise ??) it would put the screw to about 5 o'clock and not be as visible.
|You can make a new alignment slot by carefully filing it in the plastic center medallion only. It won't be visible.|
|Denis L. Baggi|
|The wheel is now at a local welding shop. It's not going to be easy. The spokes are stainless steel and the breaks are right at the aluminum hub. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.|
Bud, my decision to rotate the shaft 120° CW is to place the spokes that are now at 2 o'clock into the 10 o'clock position. They are the least stressed on a LHD car and the repaired spokes will not be pointed at my gut.
Denis, there are two holes in the back of the center hub and there appears to be a soft sustance down inside of them. Is this an adhesive that holds the centerpiece in place? TIA.
|Fixed!! A local welding company (Capeway Welding and New England Propellor) did an absolutely fantastic job of welding the broken spokes. The weld is invisible and the hub paint is still fine. I won't need to rotate the wheel. $30 well spent.|
|Now if we could only find someone to fix cracks in the PLASTIC so cheaply (and well) we would really be happy.|
|I have 2 (or is more) TD/TF spare steering wheels. The metal is AOK but the plastic is beginning to crack - there are firms inthe UK who will fix the plastic, presumablysimilar companies can be found in the USA.|
|Sorry to be late, Bud. I only remember that pushing through the two holes you describe I was able to easily to get the center piece out. I filed a slot because someone had monted my wheel wrongly, it was 120 degrees out. Later I fixed that by positioning it properly at the bottom. By then, I had another center piece. But that's long ago.|
I will pursue this if you need, but apparently you won't.
|Denis L. Baggi|
This thread was discussed between 02/05/2004 and 17/05/2004
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