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MG TD TF 1500 - Ebay TD
|My goodness... here is one... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-T-Series-TD-1951-MG-TD-FULLY-RESTORED-DOCUMENTED-A-TRUE-1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31858QQitemZ300091878570QQrdZ1|
Funny placement of fuel pump, horns reversed, padded dash. Wouldn't want to drop a wrench....!!!
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Shame they didn't know how to put the door handles on, or use the correct dash knobs. But, it is a good looking car.|
I'm in the designing an armrest for my TD using cut cardboard templates similar to the one on that car. Anyone know of an existing pattern/template out there?
|I sort of just measured as I built.... (with the radio setting most dimensions)|
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Good heavens...just noticed the 'fan' knob on the dash??? Is The oil pressure take off looks to be MGB and taken off the head?|
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Actually, the fan knob intrigues me - where are others mounting a fan switch. This admittedly looks a little out of place, but living in Alberta [8 months winter, 4 months tough sledding,] I want to have a place where the switch can fall easily to hand.|
My heater will sit on the transmission tunnel, and my fan is a 3-speed operation - what have y'all done?
|At first I put the 3 speed switch on the heater itself..low down at the back... Didn't like having to reach way down, so added a bracket/panel to under the dash. Just clears my hand while shifting...may move it closer to the steering wheel?|
On off switch going down to the 3 speed switch/heater 'on' light/starter.
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|A minor thing,but all of the "LIFT THE DOT" fasteners are installed on the tonneau cover in a position 90 degrees from where they should be.|
|(Sounding like a little old crab here) but the dash is way to over padded, you think it wouldn't be hard to find the bowls for the horns, and the seat back upholstry is missing the piping on the rear, and was stapled in place sloppily. The medalions on the hub caps need to be painted too.|
I agree with you about the 'double bed back style'padding on the dash,spoils a nice car. Also,the TDs I understand had a Sandalwood(lighter colour) on the instrument panel and steering wheel hub. On this TD they seemed to have used the TF Cognac,slightly darker colur paint. At least I don't think I saw the word 'Concours' this time in the description !
When I painted my instrument panel, I went with a color between the Cognac and Sandalwood. I was pretty much informed I had gone too dark (an easy thing to do since I'm fairly colorblind) and ended up using the Moss Instrument panel paint. Chris Cooper agrees with me that the Moss color is too light, but it has become the defacto standard.
My instrument panel saga starts here:
|Way too shiny for my taste. I also like the "parked" position of the wipers - pretty clear the car isn't driven.|
|This car could be put into very good order with some effort. Super nice paint job (except on the firewall). It might even be able to place at a concours after the following items have been addressed.|
there simply is no weak spot to be found on this no expense spared restoration
Let me give the owners a few suggestions to come up that mark:
1. Reset exterior door handles
2. Dump the padding on the dash
3. Get the correct windshield wiper wire and route correctly
4. Paint the headlamp arms and bolts etc.
5. Get the correct front license frame holder in center
6. Paint the hubcap medallion centers red
7. Trim the fender/running board rubber flush
8. Tonneau lift the dots aligned wrong (would require new tonneau)
9. Dump the chrome valve stems
10. Paint the exhaust pipe black
11. Replace dash knob with correct one
12. Replace glove box knob with correct one
13. Remount fuel pump
14. Add horn covers
15. Replace batter cables with correct ones
16. Realign fuel overflow lines
17. Replace pump to carb line
18. Paint thermostat
19. Use correct hose clamps
20. Get correct battery
21. Remount temp gauge tube
22. Paint carb linkage correctly
23. Replace light switch with old style
24. Repaint water line bypass
25. Replace wiring loom with cloth
26. Use correct straps for temp tube
27. Get correct spark plug wire caps
28. Paint coil
29. Replace tappet cover bolts
30. Repaint breather tube red
31. Nickel ID plates etc.
32. Paint hood latch screws
32. Remount the seat back
32. Replace dash dimmer knob
33. Paint the fascia bolts black
34. Replace the dash finish washers with originals
35. Replace the tach
36. Add the missing bottom chrome strip on dash
37. Chrome the glove box door hinges
38. Fix the piping at the bottom of the right dash
39. Remount the side curtain clamps (this would require a new door panel :-(
40. Redo the glove box door trim
41. Replace door checks
42. Redo interior piping with seam below door
43. Remount interior panels below doors
44. Fix some of the tacks in the hidem
45. Get the correct tools
46. Redo the cover on the shift lever (its huge)
47. Paint the battery j brackets (correct nuts/washers)
48. Touch up paint chips
49. Re-chrome some pieces
50. Replace tach cable
51. Can't see the speedo but lets replace that one too and reroute
52. Aluminize the exhaust header and clamps
53. Dump the garish fan belt
54. Repaint the oil filter
55. Polish the intake manifold
56. Those hub caps look suspect. May need to be replaced with originals
57. Brass plate windshield D washer
59. Replace exhaust pipe hangers
60. Remount bottom windscreen frame (inside out)
61. Replace headlamp lenses with original style (may be tough to do this one)
62. Dump the bumper packing (I would let this one slide)
63. Replace the headlamp arm fender rubber pads with tapered ones
64. Paint the bumper spacers
65. Need tube and wire for license plate light
66. Replace tail light screws with correct ones
67. Add washers to gas tank end covers (cant see these so they may be there)
68. Remount right hood latches
|Also they need to redo the windshield packing. I am sure I could find another dozen or so things but this should give them enough to keep them busy :-)|
|I can understand why the $21,100 bid has not met the reserve, It probably doesn't even cover the professional photography done on the car (not to mention the extensive photo editing). that has to be the best photo essay I have ever seen on any car. |
The "fan" switch is in actuality a MGB choke knob and the oil pressure gauge take off is correct for the yrae of the car. The horn is not only mounted backward, it is a MGB horn. And as long as we are nit picking, the piping around the dash is very poorly finished on the right side, the ignition/light switch is one of the aftermarket type switches and the glove compartment knob is glaringly wrong. What bothers me even more is that the fan belt is the wrong type, it is a non segmented belt and streatched entirely too tight. A few hundered miles of running with that situation and the rear bushing in the generator will be toast (not that this car is ever going to see several hundred mile of running). All of that said, the car is absolutely beautiful (the paint job is brobably another $20,000), but for that kind of money, I would expect that everything is correct and mounted properly. Cheers - Dave (drooling)
|From what I can see, Chris missed the same very important thing that I did - the door check is missing on the driver's side door (can't tell on the passenger side as the door is not shown open) - that could put a serious hurt in the paint job. Cheers - Dave|
|Tuff crowd ..but let's what I have learned from you guys over the years:|
Frame work for "hood" is wrong colour...should be tan not black. (right?)
Steering wheel is wrong color. (a re pro ? originals were more "tan" than "gray". (right?)
The next one was a "pet peeve" of mine on my TF (although my car would never pass concourse judging by members of this BBS)...The multi colored "Napa electrical butt connectors" are (IMHO) just horrid! If your not going to use the correct Lucas electrical connectors, at least hide those damned things with some black shrink tubing!
How'd I do guys?
I have had some good teachers ...ehh?
Mr. Couper ...do I get a gold star in your class for today? LOL ;-)!!!!!!
David 55 TF1500 #7427
|Man, that's one amazing list Chris! (and sorry I mispelled your name above, I know better) Dave and Dave, good job. I know I will never be concours (I'll never nickle plate my id plates and I like the black braid for my wiper motor, not to mention the aftermarket steering wheel and rocker cover) but I sure do love knowing what's supposed to be there, and what's not. Like Dave S, I've studied hard at the feet of those who do really know their MGs.|
|(Think I will stop posting photos of my car, this is getting pretty tough!!)|
There are two types of cars...
When you drop a wrench on a fender you say:
Car #1)...."Mother, Mary and Joseph, Jxxx H Chxxx, mother fxxxxx, son of a bxxxx, oh God, oh God, what have I done, shxt,daxn,fxxx,fxxx,fxxx"
Car #2).... Oops
(I own a car #2)
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|Dave DuBois: See item #41 for door checks. It looks like the passenger one is there but the driver side is broken off and left to swing freely.|
Its been awhile since I was on the interior of a horn but I should have noticed it was not a TD horn.
I agree the photos are worth as much as the car. Too bad the car did not match the perfection of the photographer. It could with a little more effort and get the $30k they want too.
You got me on the hood frame color. Don't know how I missed that one. Yes tan, not black.
Yes on the steering wheel color but at least its marbled and not solid. I would not fault them for that but if it came down to two cars that were a match, the tanner would win.
I should have caught those electrical connectors. I think I was taken back from the tacky vinyl wire I lost all my senses.
I generally never fault someone for original aftermarket accessories like aluminium rocker covers or steering wheels etc. Its rarely that close of a race from my experience anyway.
I also noticed a bit of work needs to be done to the cowel rubber on the drivers corner. It drops down a bit into the bonnet.
The reason I was so picky as this car is real close to perfection and its a shame these details were overlooked. Also I don't see anyone on this BBS advertising that:
'this is without a doubt the finest example one will find anywhere'
If I wanted a perfect car I would take the list to the seller and state if they addressed those issues I would pay $30k. Its that close (but I don't need a perfect TD :-)
Gold stars for all.
|Generator has no brush inspection band or windows, so likely not correct. Float lids match, I think the rear one is wrong (should be mirror images w/postion of fuel inlet), wrong type ignition/light swtich (has the "window". Paint beautiful. Too bad the restorer didn't do a little research. George|
|I hope that whoever ends up with this very nice car has lots of insurance. Take a look at the overflow tubes.Look where they are directed.|
|T. L. Manion Thomas|
|Top fit could be improved. Many wrinkles at the rear.|
Interesting that no photos show the side curtains in place. Does it have side curtains?
|George R Herschell|
|You guys are really hard!!!! I'm not saying that's bad but jeez, it sure looks purty. :-)|
|Dave. Most of us have cars well below this one, but I am with chris on this one. The items he listed ( I also was unsure about the rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb), could easily have been or could be corrected. Simply posting this car and asking this group for assistance could have given this company all the information they probably would need to bring this to near perfection. Just a shame to see it misadvertized. Anyone want to send the owner chrisis list?|
Oh yes. I nominate Chris as a judge for the MG 2007. Just down the road a little for him.
I've seen carb float bowl covers both ways, symetrical and asymetrical. My car came with matching float bowl covers and when I was working on getting the float pin holes sealed, I traded one out. I did state that the original lids were 'wrong' but I think a lot of cars were delived with the same lids.
(please, don't use my car for a critique, group!):
|Dave Braun: I love your pictures. I have lots of the same type of pictures when I did my car. The testing setup, the special rack I built for the body thats off the ground, ... Your pictures brought back some fond memories for me. Having a working chassis is a real great point in the restoration and an important milestone to achieve. |
While there is pleanty still to do with the bodywork and softgoods, you can rest knowing that you have achieved a great deal to this point and have something that everyone can appreciate all of your hard work.
|Hi Dave, My car had matching float lids when dad bought it in the early 70s. They appear to be the same age/wear/finish, etc. Abingdon and Moss have always listed different part #s for the front and rear. My factory parts list is at home so I can't check that at the moment. I had a long discussion with Mick Conde some time ago. I mentioned to Mick that I had matching float lids and was trying to get the correct mirror image lid. He said that for what ever reason, the correct rear lids (#1161 cast in- by memory- will check tonight) were more frequently damaged, and replaced, with the supply of new ones drying up well before the correct front (1162?) lids. I went out and checked, and had both 1162's and no rear 1161. Perhaps water entered the rear first casuing corrosion, and/or the exhaust manifold heat, casuing the banjo bolt to strip or the lid to just break? So I think they were suppose to be different. However, as the matched pairs are so common and seem to work fine, maybe they just ran out during assembly and used whatever they had. George|
|Thank you kindly, Chris for your comments. Sometimes I wonder what I'll do when the car is substantially finished. I'm sure I'll need some kind of project. Probably won't be another TD, I'm considering a MGB GT.|
George, very instructive, and would explain why I've seen so many 'matching' float bowl lids! I've never had a problem with seized banjo bolts, but then, since I've owned my car it has had a pretty babied existence (indoor storage, kids instructed to come home at the first sight of rain, only 'Dad' can drive it in a storm...). I think in this case, I'll stand corrected and assume that two different bowl lids is the perferable and correct arrangement.
One interesting thing about my float bowls is that the passage arm connecting the bowl to the carb cracked or broke, and the unit was repaired with an aluminum weld. But it is just a tad shorter than the unrepaired mate. I'm thinking some time I'm going to look for a new one.
|That beautiful black TD has been relisted on e-Bay. They did fix the door handles!!|
|They re-photographed the whole thing...|
|gblawson - TD#27667|
|That shine of the paint is a photo embelishment,,,|
Don't judge me for a trophy today
I'm a fifties car
I cut my teeth on old back roads
of dirt and gravel and potholes and tar
Any I have scars that no judge can find
'Cause I have a heart just like you
I remember the night of our senior prom
And the football games I carried us to.
And show cars remind me of my own high school days
When rich kids drove their fancy new cars
They parked proudly in front of the school
While I sat quietly in the back school yard.
So on Saturday nights when the work is all Through
The night air is warm and our minds are set free
You'll turn up the oldies and cruise me way cool
That will be trophy enough for me.
|Did anyone notice that the car is BLUE underneath?|
|Ira Spector (PA)|
I suspect that it is the reflection from the blue paint on the lift it is on.
I still feel we should politely write to the company and help them get this car really up to perfect.
|And when it's perfect, are you going to buy it?|
This thread was discussed between 17/03/2007 and 02/04/2007
MG TD TF 1500 index
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