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MG TD TF 1500 - Front brake inspection

Okay, I've pulled the hub/drum off right front wheel-picture attached. PO mechanic's invoice indicate front brakes inspected due to reported "sticking" in 2007 about 2,000 miles ago, so should be in pretty good shape. (This was well known Brit shop in Denver. They indicated sticking was due to improperly installed cylinders. ) Hopefully I won't have to pull all 4 hubs and can just clean/paint exterior parts. Age of linings/shoes unknown.

That said, opinions on condition of shoes & lining would be appreciated.

Thanks again,

efh Haskell

Here's the rest.

efh Haskell

Hi Ed
I am working on my TF brakes currently. Yours look clean. No apparent fluid leakage via cycliders, from the photos. I think your shoe linings look thin. Might consider new shoes and/or linings.

Tom Norby

Definitely thin shoes need replacing. Try to find a local shop to re-line the shoes. All else looks dry and fine. Pull the wheel cylinders apart and see if there is any corrosion or crud, clean appropriately, go to NAPA and get 7/8" cup seals, re-assemble using assembly lube.

Be sure also to check the hoses for cracks; if they look old replace them, because they collapse internally and plug up the flow.

t lange

I agree with Tom. Linnings starting to look a little worn. Are you planning on putting in new brake lines?
If so then go all the way and rebuild the cylinders and use silicone fluid. If not then just change the shoes and put it back together. Remember how this started out as a respray?

LaVerne Downey

Unless you can date the hoses, I suggest replacing them (one on each front wheel and one in the rear), especially if you open the hydraulic system. These flex lines fail without any outward sign of a problem.

Tighten the front flex lines to the brake cylinders first, then to the bracket on the chassis. Make sure flex lines don't twist (bend is okay). There are painted lines on the rubber hoses to use as a reference to make sure the hoses are not twisted.

Larry Shoer

I'm with everyone else... the shoes look like they are half worn through. Might as well replace the hoses, flush the lines and blow air through them, go silicone. I love my silicone fluid...

Dave Braun

I've read much in archives about the silicone and will probably go that way. To clarify, do I or do I not have to rebuild the wheel cylinders to go silicone? For that matter, I might very well have it now. Any way to tell? The stuff I drained out of MC was basically clear (not purple) for what it's worth. Had no smell either.

Is there a brake line cleaner of some sort to flush with? If so I guess I better do now rather than later?

Brake shoes. Better to get new ones already affixed to with linings or buy linings separate & have a shop do it and match to the drum? (Larry has provided shop references but I'll see what's available locally first:)

efh Haskell

ed, if you enjoy working on the car i would suggest reriveting new linings. it may be more cost effective to buy new shoes with new linings attached. if you have a local shop reline the shoes they may also be able to re-arc the new linings to the drum if you need or desire. regards, tom
tom peterson

Ed if your going with silicone fluid you will have to rebuild all of the cylinders. If your going to use your existing brake lines they will all have to be flushed out. For years upon years we had a local clutch and brake shop. Nothing around here now that I'm aware of.
LaVerne Downey

I would replace the linings. You wouldn't want to score the drums; they are getting scarcer by the day! I recently procured a set (4) of the bonded shoes through LBC. They offer 15% off of Moss prices. I was lucky that the new shoes,were very close to matching the arc of the drums and I put them back on as they were. No problems. It's difficult to tell precisely, but judging by the flaring of your old linings, the drums have probably been cut a couple of times. Arcing of the linings and even cutting drums, has become sort of a lost art. Hopefully, LaVerne or one of your other Colorado neighbors can steer you toward a local shop that still does it, if you really need it done. There is an outfit in Ca. call CH Topping, that does all manner of brakes and relining, but shipping a pair of drums both ways would make it very expensive! They are at Len Fenelli has someone here in NY that does it, but again, big shipping.
Steven Tobias

Okay, I guess I'm daft, but I've spent hours searching archives for how to remove brake shoes and find everything BUT the steps. I have an old brake shoe removal tool from my B days but I can't remember how to use it. Link below is what it looks like:

Can someone please list the {simple} steps to remove the front shoes? I'ld apprecaite it.

efh Haskell

Remove the long springs (2) and they will fall off....

I had mine done at a local brake shop recomened by the machine shop in town. I gave them the linings and the drums and they turned the drums (found them to be glazed) and arced the new linings to the drum diameter.

This was the second time I had to do this. The first was due to a brake cylinder exploding in a drum. At which time I did new linings and sleeved all cylinders including master cylinder, and then did new hoses and rubbers kits. I opted for Castrol LMA for my car as I drive it a lot. I didn't want to deal with silicon leaking past a sleeve (which I read on here could be a problem).

After all that, I still had a problem. Turned out my wheel bearing seal had failed and the bearing grease was being flung out to the drum and fouling the liners. So... all off again and new break linings, turned the drums, and then new wheel bearings with new seals. Car pulls up straight and fast now. Gotta love brakes that work!

ABW Waugh

ed, the tool might come in handy when you put the shoes back on. The offset pliars might make it a little less awkward when you go to stretch the springs back into place. The end of the pliar handle has a tool that will help you remove and replace the coiled retention spring holding the REAR shoes in place. Not applicable to fronts. When you remove the long springs holding the front shoes and everything falls apart, the adjusters and pistons will fall least the ones that face down. Be carefull to assemble them the way they were, and retract the sdjusters all the way, so you can put the drums back on.
Steven Tobias

I guess I'm not making myself clear-not unusual. There is only about 1/16" of the end of each spring showing on the outboard side of the holes in the shoes where the springs are affixed. Obviously I could just ram a screwdriver under it and the spring would go flying, requiring no special tool at all. But before I do so, how in creation do you get the new springs back in that hole, especially since they are required to be between the shoes and the backing plate? I can already hear myself cussing as blood pours from my knuckles! (I don't remember this being too hard on my B back when.)
efh Haskell

Hi Ed, To remove the front or rear brake shoes, you just draw them apart by hand against the the spring pressure until they lift out and away of the wheel cylinders. It takes a little muscle but the spring pressure is not that great. When reasembling install the springs on the rear of the shoes first before you stretch the shoes apart as you position them into place on the wheel cylinders. Cheers Phil
Phil Atrill

Ed, As Phil said, just force them apart against the spring tension, and his reasembling advice is right-on. When you look at it and you start to put it all back with this technique, you will see that it is no big deal. I removed and replaced the drums, cleaned everything, re-assembled and adjusted the front brakes in about 1 1/2 hours. Don't hesitate-it's pretty simple.
Steven Tobias

For the archives, brute force did it! Helps a little if you push the shoes left/right to help them clear the cylinder a little first. Then lift up and over near one cylinder and that side is off! Other side easy easy then.

Simple - once you know how, like most everything else in life. I hate springs!@#$^%!@#

Thanks for the assistance all, especially Larry offline.
efh Haskell

This thread was discussed between 18/04/2010 and 21/04/2010

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