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MG TD TF 1500 - Frozen front wheel
|During restoration and sitting up, the left front wheel has "frozen" and the restoration guy cannot get it to turn. Previously prior to taking to him, I would break it loose wedging a solid steel rod across the lugs and hammering on it or using a lead pipe "extender" for leverage. The car has now been painted and I don't want to use this method.|
He has tried an impact hammer and also a "hub puller" to no avail. Does anyone have a solution??????
|I had all four wheels frozen the same way when I found my car. I went down to the local rent-x where they had a large assortment of pullers. I rented the mother of all pullers. It was 10 to 12 inches. This pulled off the wheel and bent the retainer on the shoe retainer but this was easy to fix. Be careful, I've been told the wheel can come off with some velocity|
|Am surprised it happens so much? When you turned it last time did it sound like the brake shoe still making contact with the drum? (Unless there is a problem with the M/C relief valve, they shouldn't make contact if backed off after adjusting). Assume the wheel bearing was well packed with grease?|
|gordon lawson - TD 27667|
|Bill - If it hasn't already been tried, crack the bleed nipple and see if that will loosen the drum. It could be that pressure has built up from a blocked M/C relief valve (as suggested by Gordon). Good luck - Dave|
|William.... did you get the wheel off and if so, what did it and what did you find...?|
We had a MKII at the shop yesterday and had to use the big 12" puller.... The bearing stayed on the hub (for a minute), but slipped easily into the drum on reassembly.
|gordon lawson - TD 27667|
|The wheels will freeze up when the wheel cylinders seize up. The pistons will move out when the brakes are applied but will not release as the only pressure to make them release is the spring on the shoes and the tension on the spring will be insufficient to pull the pistons back, so they will lock on.|
The only way to remove the drum when this happens is to force the wheel to turn using the method you used previously until the hole in the drum lines up with the brake cylinder and try to make the brake release by levering the piston back with a large screwdriver through the adjustment hole.
Just using a puller on the drum may not work as there is generally a ridge on the outside of the drum caused by years of wear on the drum that will make it impossible to drag the drum off the brake shoes.
When you try to turn the wheel, remember that the brakes are designed to work when the car is going forwards, so it will be easier to turn the wheel in reverse to line up the hole with the wheel cylinders.
|Paul van Gool|
This thread was discussed between 03/06/2006 and 17/06/2006
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