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MG TD TF 1500 - Fuel pump

Hi Again
Just had my TD mkII serviced for the upcomming season.
The only remark it got was that the fuel pumps both strugle to deliver enough fuel to the carbs. But not something I feel when driving the car. However, the problem has to be addressed before it is too late, and this leads to my question to all you experts.
Should I rebuilt the pumps or perhaps convert them to pointless pumps or simply just replace them with new mechanical pumps?

As usual thanks in advance
Torben
Torben Olesen

I rebuilt my lazy one few weeks ago with the kit sold by Burlen Fuel.
Straight forward procedure except for the seal washer but now you can find further explanation for this in a recent thread of the forum.

No issue for points in my opinion. They are doubled in the new kit and a transil is provided in the kit. No more overvoltage.
Good video also :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oU5uLjuOQdM

Laurent.
LC Laurent31

Part of the charm of a Mark II, part of the original equipment and what stands them apart, is the arrangement of dual SU fuel pumps. The practice clearly harkened back to race cars, where a second pump would continue to supply, even if the first failed. In my experience, though, a single pump provides plenty of fuel for any T-series car.

Tom Ball here in the US not only rebuilds these pumps to a VERY high standard, but can convert them to solid state, which reduces the draw at the points. There may be someone in Europe to do this modification; I know of nobody. The shipping would be worth the return, in my opinion. I suggest that the modern solid-state pumps are no benefit over a good, rebuilt original.

People have put a back-up Facet pump back by the tank, switched separately, in case the SUs go bad - the Facet would pump through the SUs, so no special plumbing is necessary. I think you would regret replacing the dual SU's with a mechanical pump.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Laurent,

In your attached video, did notice that he omitted to fit the arc suppressor? It can be seen on the bench with the rest of the kit.

John

J Scragg

Torben,
I would suggest checking the filter in the tank, in the carbs and in both pumps and then measure the output of each pump individually before you start taking anything apart. There might be nothing wrong with your pumps at all.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

John, Just for my info, are those arc suppressors polarity specific?
John Quilter (TD8986)

John,

Below is a copy paste from the archives, of my response to your question, however, I have updated it to show the latest changes.

Your fuel pump, even if it has mechanical points may or may not be polarity sensitive.
To increase the life of the points, an arc suppressor is used, this device was changed three times during the production.
You could have one of the following suppressors on your unit:

1/ Capacitor.
2/ Diode.
3/ MOV (Varistor).
4/ TVS (Transil).

1/, 3/ and 4/ are NOT polarity sensitive 2/ IS. You need to identify which component is installed on your pump.

Some guidelines which may help you:

1/ Is button shaped, and may be red/brown in colour.
2/ Is cylindrical, black with a silver ring around one end.
3/ Is a button, light blue in colour.
4/ Is cylindrical, black with no ring.

ALL electronic pumps ARE polarity sensitive.

John




J Scragg

John,

Below is a copy paste from the archives, of my response to your question, however, I have updated it to show the latest changes.

Your fuel pump, even if it has mechanical points may or may not be polarity sensitive.
To increase the life of the points, an arc suppressor is used, this device was changed three times during the production.
You could have one of the following suppressors on your unit:

1/ Capacitor.
2/ Diode.
3/ MOV (Varistor).
4/ TVS (Transil).

1/, 3/ and 4/ are NOT polarity sensitive 2/ IS. You need to identify which component is installed on your pump.

Some guidelines which may help you:

1/ Is button shaped, and may be red/brown in colour. 2/ Is cylindrical, black with a silver ring around one end.
3/ Is a button, light blue in colour.
4/ Is cylindrical, black with no ring.

ALL electronic pumps ARE polarity sensitive.

John




J Scragg

Hi all

Thank you all for the feedback.
I've decided to buy one new pump and a rebuilt kit for the other. That way I'll be able to run the car using the new pump while I fiddle with the rebuilt kit. I'll learn something, keep the car running no matter how long it takes to rebuilt the other and the car will stay as original as before.
Another question is if any of you have any expierience with CSI Electronic ignition? I've installed a brand new unit and uses step 6 for the advance curve which is recommended by CSI. However, the car is slightly hesitating under acceleration until 2500 rpm, after which it feels much more lively and powerfull. Taking the foot off the accelerator a bit seems to help. The carbs are adjusted by the best mechanic, and seems to be absolutely spot on. Trying different steps might help, but it would be nice to know if any of you have found the right step (out of the 16 steps the CSI has)
Thanks in advance
Torben
Torben Olesen

This thread was discussed between 30/04/2020 and 07/05/2020

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.