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MG TD TF 1500 - gear lever remote washer
|I have removed my gear lever remote control housing to see if I could find some worn bushings or springs that could explain my gear lever rattle. Very little wear was found, though the remote housing has never been rebushed, so the shaft runs directly in the aluminium. |
But - at the end engaging the into gearbox sliders there is a large washer that moves freely along the shaft from the brass engaging lever to the housing wall(see image). Is this an original washer, what is its function, and against which part is it supposed to thrust?
Thank you for helping me out on this one!
I suspect you have a repro selector lever
as I am pretty sure the front selector lever was originally steel not brass!The washer seems to be an addition.
If you look at the Archives on Gear Lever
rattle,you will find a lot of helpful information.
Check the Gear Lever's 'ball'where it fits into the rear selector lever.Quite often either(or both)the ball is worn and the hole into which it goes,is ovalled.Also,the spring and ball unit function here also needs checking.
It is worthwhile also checking on the damper
unit on top of the remote control body but I know you would have already examined same.
I fit a Nitrile ring onto the hemispherical
ball of the Gear Lever.By cutting a groove in the 'ball'on the Lathe at this point the ring sits nicely in place acting as a cushion and to take up wear in the 'cup' of the remote control housing.
Some owners have found that the rattle can be produced in their cars if the motor timing is too far advanced !
Of course,line boring the housing and fitting lubron type bushes together with a new operating shaft can also assist the anti rattle process.
|Rob is right. I have a likely late 70's brass/bronze repro lever also, originals were steel. Washer not stock. George|
|Thank you for your prompt answers. I will remove the washer and see what happens. |
Re. the fitting of a Nitrile ring; I have seen this tip in the archive, but when removing the lever from the housing I find that the slots in the side of the ball where the shaft fork engages seem to interfere with the fitting of any sort of recessed rubber ring. Could anyone please enlighten me as to how this Nitrile ring is positioned? A photo or sketch would have been very helpful.
pertronix expected arriving any day now, will try to set static timing at TDC as per WSM, or?
(3 degrees Fahrenheit this morning)
|I would also be interested in viewing a photo of this procedure. PJ|
You may not get an accurate static reading with the pertronix. There is .83mm per degree of advance on the pulley. If you have decent fuel, and your distributor shaft and bushes are good, you should be able to run at least at 5 BTDC at low idle (say 700 RPM 4mm). In the stock distributor, the advance comes up pretty quick, but you will be shooting for 32 degrees at maximum advance at about 4000 rpm. If it pings on acceleration, retard the spark. If you can try running more advance, about 8 BTDC at 700 RPM.
Hope this helps,
|Jan, you might want to look at some Pertronix info at http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/pertronix_igniters.htm.|
If yours is a negative ground installation you'll be able to time it statically (e.g., TDC) using a test lamp. Don't try running with the test lamp still in place. Bud
|Bud Krueger (TD10855)|
|Thanks for useful hints on fitting the Pertronix kit!|
I will be verry happy for a sketch or picture showing the fitting of a Nitrile ring; I have seen this tip mentioned in the archive, but when removing the lever from the housing I find that the slots in the side of the ball where the shaft fork engages seem to interfere with the fitting of any sort of recessed rubber ring any where on the ball that would dampen the metal -to metal contact.
Could anyone please enlighten me as to how this Nitrile ring is positioned? A photo or sketch would have been very helpful.
This thread was discussed between 01/12/2010 and 05/12/2010
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