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MG TD TF 1500 - Hard rear suspension

I have tried every search option I can think of and it always comes back 0 finds. Even the single word "suspension" does find anything.

Anyway here is my question, the rear suspension is very stiff in our TD. It has rebuilt shocks and they are not seized. There is also a significant hard metal contact when on a rough road, the exhaust is not hitting, the side curtain box and gas tank are secure and nothing seems to be touching nor can I see indication of metal to metal contact.

I do note that the springs are getting rusty and the small pads that are supposed to separate the end of each leaf from its adjacent one are missing. The rubber bushings, pads etc appear to be OK but will be replaced when I redo the springs. I plan to stick with rubber unless someone has good experience with poly.

Am I missing something or could the springs be the whole stiff ride, noise issue?
Norm Peacey

My TF was bottoming out and gave us a hard ride, especially two up. After disassembly the springs were measured and found to be within factory spec. I rebuilt the suspension with new Nylatron interleaf pads and poly bushings, and installed the Moss Koni telescopic damper kit. The result was a plush ride with the car rarely bottoming out, and with much better traction. I guess the sum of height loss due to rotten and missing rubber was my problem, and maybe the interleaf pads alters the geometry of the spring pack to make it perform as a stiffer spring?

regards,

Jan
Jan Emil Kristoffersen

Norm: Don't use the "search" selection. Use the "archive" selection and it will bring ups literally dozens of "suspension" threads.
L Karpman

NORM,
Can you see if the springs are sooo warn and tried that the axle is hitting the rebound rubber that is mounted on the frame????

SPW
Steve Wincze

Norm,
It is also possible that one ot the shock arm bolts is not tight, It can cive a nasty metalic sound on rough surfaces..

SPW
Steve Wincze

Thanks folks, good things to watch for as I take the springs out for rebuild, I have the nylatron pads and will be ordering poly bushings as part of my shopping spree.

Can you tell me where you got the poly bushings and if there was a choice of stiffness?

Norm
Norm Peacey

norm,
I've got to ask,,,, If your springs are old, tired and rusty, why not just purchase new springs and be done with it????

SPW
Steve Wincze

A couple of months ago I asked if anyone has had an opinion on these new springs. NO pads between springs they say. Does that indicate that you provide and insert yourself or you just don't use pads?
E. R. Constant

I had a very bad experience with replacement springs and am very reluctant to go that route, they were expensive and after less than 4 months driving were arched the wrong way and basically junk. No satisfaction from the source so live and learn.

My springs seem to have good arch and I will clean prime paint and reassemble using the spring pads, new nuts and bolts and probably soft poly bushings if I can find them.
Norm Peacey

Norm, Giving everything a good disassemble and clean works wonders. It is important to have good rubbers between the leaves of the spring. You can check the "free camber" after you re-assemble the springs. I suggest that you switch the springs , side to side on re-install.
C.R. Tyrell

In my case I have 2 broken leaves on 1 side, all ok on other. I don't want to go the newly manufactured route but I may have to.
E. R. Constant

For those not familiar, "Nylatron" is a registered brand name by Cadillac Plastics. Its is a cast or extruded Nylon product impregnated with Molybdenum Disulphide which provides more "slip" between surfaces.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

e. R.,
For new springs, there isn't any need for the pads between the leaves,,,
I installed new springs (TD) many miles ago, and they are still functioning very well...

c. r.,
Why do you recomend to switch the springs side to side? Shouldn't they be the same ????

Steve
Steve Wincze

Steve, As the car is driven , usually with the driver most of the time, the car tends to settle on the driver side a little. By switching the springs the passenger side spring usually will give more support until it settles in. Kinda like rotating tires. Since springs are not removed from the car too often, when they do come off..... rotate them to balance any "sag".
C.R. Tyrell

Exactly why new ones should be installed instead of using old, tired, saggy ones I guess,,

Steve Wincze

If the free camber is correct.... no need to replace them.
C.R. Tyrell

SSoooo,, if the free camber is correct,,,,, why switch them????
Steve Wincze

This has been mentioned on an earlier thread but it's worth repeating here. The spring pads supplied by Moss are thicker than the originals. The net effect of using these thicker pads is to increase the camber of the springs by shortening the eye to eye measurement, often with disasterous results, resulting in expensive panel & paint repairs to the rear apron & guards.. Check out the pic below. It's worth a thousand words...

I also agree with CR. If it aint broke don't fix it. There is invariably more load on the drivers side because the passenger seat is often empty, so it makes perfect sense to swap the drivers & passenger spring set, at least once before you throw the springs away. I was never one to believe newer is better. How many of todays models will still be on the road in 65 years? Steel like a lot of things was way better quality back then so if it aint broke.. Cheers
Peter TD 5801


P Hehir

Norm,
Agree with most of the comments re the rear spring set up.

Just a long shot which I witnessed on a TF many years ago- the owner had complained that when he went over a severe bump/pothole a loud metallic thump would arise from the rear axle area of the car.

I looked carefully under the car and initially could
not see any evidence of metal to metal contact.

However, I then introduced a bright light under the car,and there was the culprit! Someone had used a slightly deeper section nut located on the outside of the the rear shock absorber arm.The non standard,deeper section nut would just hit the bottom edge of the inner quarter panel when going over a road depression-whack!

Cheers
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177)"Athos").

R GRANTHAM

This thread was discussed between 29/09/2014 and 02/10/2014

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