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MG TD TF 1500 - High Tech Jack Stands
|I'm changing the bushings on the A Arm and my anti-sway bar. I did not like the idea of putting my standard metal jack stands under the frame. Fear of slipping off when I raise and lower the ramp lift.|
So I use the attached High Tech method.
|Mort 50 TD|
|Um, I'm not really liking using that single 2x4 as a bridge. Especially since one side doesn't appear to be on the ramp. I'd suggest a 4x4 or at least stacking another 2x4 across, assuming you don't have a proper steel bridge.|
|Interesting. It brings up the case of a two-post lift versus a 4-post lift|
Here, Mort, you're using a 4-post lift, which if anything (IMHO) is more of a problem than ... see below. The wheels have to be able to "flop around" after removing the springs, so I would be inclined to think that a two-post lift would make it easier.
However, when I installed my V8 bushings, I did it using using just common stands. This way, I was able to sit whilst I did the job - something I been accused of, often!
|Which bushings did you decide to go with?|
|hEhE. On my jack stands it says "do not work under car while on jack stands" What do they think I bought them for?|
|Bruce TD4139 Cunha|
|Looks like 2 x 6's to me...but I'd still prefer two full length ones for the span. Of course, I've worked under a car using much worse bracing 8^)|
The bridge is a 2 x 10. The blocks are the same 2 x 10 x 6" long.
I made 2 sets of three blocks and screwed them together. I mad 2 sets of two blocks and srewed them together. I also have a bunch of single pieces. This minimizes slippage and gives me a lot of height flexibility.
Between the frame and the wood I have a fairly solid rubber piece 1 x 6 x 10 for increased friction.
Mine is a single post lift with ramps. It was the best footprint for my limited space.
With the ramp on the ground I used my floor jack to lift high enough to get the wheels substantially off the ground and then inserted the blocks. I got lots of flop around.
Then I can raise or lower to suit the task at hand.
I've got all three styles sitting on the bench. The ones I took out are poly and they show no signs of wear. Since this is such an "easy" job I may go with the rubber to see if I get a better ride. If I go with the poly later I may put the old ones back in. Still deciding.
David...Did you get my e-mail yesterday(6/20/15 3:37AM)?
I put the weight on the bridge very slowly to check for deflection. Almost nothing as you can see.
I also chose the 2 x 10 because my standard jack stands fit on it comfortably, if I should need that set up.
|Mort 50 TD|
|I think you will be hard pressed to find something to out perform the Pollyurathane bushings. I will check my emails. It's been a hectic few days. |
|Not exactly on topic, but for safety, get rid of the drop lite with the incandesant bulb. Replace it with a fluorescent lamp or LED lamp. The bulb types explode on you if any fluid hits them when hot. A friend of mine got killed by that from some dripping gasoline while working on a TR6. I had an antifreeze experience once myself. Mike|
|I've had an led bulb in mine for a few years. I've dropped it dozens of times, it just keeps going. Much safer, and no heat to. |
|Yeah... Not digging the 2x stock bridge. I would vote for a full span 4x at the minimum.|
I bought the blue poly-bush urethane bushings. They are midway between the hard full poly bushings and the soft rubber ones. So far, I have been quite pleased with them.
|Watch the angle when you raise the car. When I worked on the rear, I lifted the car to a comfortable working height, but the result was that the carb chambers spilt over and the place smelled of gas like hell for days.|
The only way to get rid of the smell was to take the carbs off and dump them on the back porch for a few days.
LEDs are much better for working in any case. I got this 3ft LED light bar that has adjustable magnet arms on it, you can easily fix it to the bottom of the car (easier on one that has no wooden floor, though ;-)
|I don't worry about your 2 x 10 supports. They put very little bending moment on the cross plank. Mostly some shear stress from the weight, but that's not a lot since the blocks distribute the weight and overlap the lift runways. 2 x 10's can take much more than they're seeing here, plus they all appear to be new.|
|A W Parker|
|Whilst s;lightly off-topic, Mike Davis gives good advice. |
A close friend of mine and a serious collector, lost 3 gorgeous cars - a 2½ litre Riley SMB, a Lagonda Speed 6 and a TF when a single drop of gas, hit his very hot work lamp whilst under his Lagonda. Plus it did $75K of damage to his garage.
No more incandescent work lights for me!
This thread was discussed between 20/06/2015 and 25/06/2015
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