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MG TD TF 1500 - Lubing Choke Cable

I tried to pull the choke cable out of the housing to put a little Graphite lubricant on it but it will only come out a little less than the length of the knob shaft. Is there a way to unlock this, or do I have to just add a drop of 3&1 oil at a time to creep down the outer housing? Didn't want to use oil if I didn't have to. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I run lubricant along the entire cable, and it just soaks into the spirals.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tom is right about the spiral-shielded cables... it's really the only way to lube them apart from pulling out the cable itself and injecting lubricant.

This is the tool I use to lubricate vinyl-covered cables, for those who have them... it works very well and most better bicycle shops will carry them:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lubricator-Lubricant-Motorcycle-Scooter/dp/B009YEYL0I

I inject spray white grease. Works fine and is fairly resistant to water.





kmclemore

My recently installed two post lift says to use spray white (lithium) grease in the columns. Is this something I can pick up at NAPA? Thanks. Jud
J K Chapin

Yeah, spray white lithium is pretty easy to find at most any auto supply place.
kmclemore

Paul -

Does your cable need lubricating, or are you doing it as normal maintenance?

The choke cable in my TF is on the lower right corner of the instrument panel. It is almost a straight shot to the choke lever on my carbs. It has no excess length. The only way that I could see that it would bind is if there were a kink in the sheath or the inner cable. It is probably an after market replacement. It has the locking feature like the original cable.

> Does your cable have excess length or kinks?
> Is the twist-to-lock mechanism at the knob binding the cable?
> Is the cable rusted to the sheath?

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie, My choke cable is on the left and starter is on the right. The start cable is too short to reach the base of the carbs and was that way from the beginning. To make them correct, I'd have to replace the cables, which I intend to do later, right now I just want to get this thing road worthy and waiting for parts is killing me. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I understand completely. Can't help you with the cable except to say avoid short bends.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Paul:
I'm sure know that you have to twist the choke cable whilst pulling out. There is a key which must be lined up to adjust...then twist to release. Just sayin.

Brian W.
ZBMan

Paul.
What is the condition of the end of the inner cable?
If it is frayed or bent up you may not be able to remove it once it gets to the outer. If you do manage to pull it out - then you may have to work on it some to get it back in. It helps to be able to cut off the damaged end if that is the case. I would suggest you solder the strands at the end of the inner, to keep them together. For the carb choke cable I solder the last 5 INS so it is stiff and helps to push the jets back up and assists the return spring.

Whatever you do don't cut the overall length so it is a strait run to the starter or carbs. Leave it long as you can.
Reason is, if you want to drop the dashboard out to work on anything. You won't have to disconnect the starter and carb cables.
Lethem grease is what I used, having pulled out the inner all the way and greased it as it when back in.
So far no issues.

Rod


R. D. Jones

Thanks guys for all your information.
Rod, Great idea about stiffening the last 5 inches of the cable, never gave it a thought. I ordered a set of Teflon O rings for the carb jets. I'll have to pull the carbs anyway when my heat shield comes, so that'll be a good time to change the O rings. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I was having difficulty getting the choke to pull smoothly despite all efforts at lubrication. It was impacting the levers and arms on the carbs. My solution was to make a support at the carbs.

It is in the archives at:
http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=2013050922321617390

I am going to try the lubricator that is mentioned here.

Safety? Fast?
Scott Ashworth - '54 TF
S. R. Ashworth

I have a question and maybe someone has the answer. Why does the workshop manual, page B-14, have the choke on the left and starter cable on the right, (as my car is), when any pictures I've seen shows the opposite? PJ
Paul S Jennings

WSM and Operation Manual show RHD cars. I believe that gauges and controls were reversed on LHD cars. Compare gauges and controls in the WSM vs unrestored LHD TF9052:
http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtf/Pictures/TF9052/TF9052_252.jpg

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Image is of a RHD car.
MG LaVerne

My gages are right, just my choke and start cables are wrong. Can't reverse them as the start cable has been cut too short to reach the carbs. New cable will fix. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 04/05/2015 and 05/05/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.