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MG TD TF 1500 - Mark II - need details
|While my engine and gear box must be repaired I can't stand that deprivation. So I'm looking for a second TD.
I have eyes on a TD/C (MK II) built 12-Mar-1952. But there are some things I doubt with.
1. The front suspension is a combination of Armstrong and Andrex Type TEI - I guess that is okay?
2. In the rear there are only Andrex - is that also right? Reading the prospect I have in mind the Andrex are an addition to rear and front.
3. Are seals for Andrex available?
4. The air cleaner is not original. Any chance to get the original parts (manifold and air cleaner)?
5. The windscreen has no marks. How can I be sure it is some kind of safety glass?
6. The radiator emblem is white/brown not white/black - correct for 1952?
7. What's about the reostat - was it always present?
Thanks in advance
What is the chassis number of the car; various things changed from early to late.
2. At all 4 corners there should be both standard shocks AND Andrex
3. Unlikely; you would have to find another, similar seal.
4. Depends. Does the car have the original 4031 carbs? If so, are the holes in the front flanges round or oblong? Oblong holes mean that the earlier air filter system was originally supplied; round holes means that the later, very scarce, larger filter housing and snorkel were used.
6. Only later cars after TD 22613 had the black/white emblem
7. What rheostat? None that I know
Also, relating to #4 above, the original, small oil bath and snorkel strangle the engine, and do not allow for full performance. That is why they went to the larger system in later cars. I usually recommend using the Vokes filters from a TF, as they can be made to provide adequate filtering without restricting the air flow, and look more period correct.
Happy to answer any Mark II questions.
Sourcing original TF Vokes filters could prove a challenge in Europe. Do you know of any other alternatives as I often thought about swopping out the original oil bath filter on my TD.
|Thank you Tom|
Please look at the rear suspension. I only have this picture and it seems that there is only 1 shock. Is it possible to change over to e.g. Girling? I guess it will work.
I do not know what carbs are present - think they are 1 1/2 ".
The reostat dims the dashlight (darker than dark ;-)). After 1951 it replaced the switch.
Any hints for #5?
|Dear Mr. Mueller, pleas give me an Email with your telephone Number if you like.|
|The Panel Light Switch, becomes a rheostat after the switch becomes closed. Yes, off is darker than dark. Bud|
|Oh, sorry, my email|
|#5: Most custom cut windscreens will not display a safety glass mark. Probably illegal but ...|
If you can expose an edge you will see a thin line of plastic between two layers of glass. This shows it's safety glass.
With regard to the rear shocks, you should have another set of holes on the other side of the axle for an Armstrong shock. The consensus is that the Andrex don't do much even when working properly, but they look cool and are part of the TD/C identity. So keep the Andrex. On the other hand, you could probably pay for your engine overhaul if you sell the set.
|Thank you Jim,|
the photo I got shows only the ANDREX shock. Because it is a real TD/C I guess the holes are present - or can anybody with help of the formerly attached photo say that hydraulic shocks are installed?
I hope this picture helps.
Ray TF 2884
|Ray Lee: Great picture.|
Shouldn't the arms on the Andrex be painted black too?
|Thank yor Ray|
as mentioned - great picture
|If your front wings have a bump above the damper position it would be likely that you have Armstrong dampers all around. It appears you are missing an Armstrong on the rear. It will mount directly through the chassis aged of the differential. There will be two empty holes where the shock would have mounted. The link for the shock will bolt into the front hole of the lower spring plate.
I donít have the production change notes handy to tell you what chassis # began the Armstrong shocks. But there is a gray area when cars equipped with the bump out front wings were still being fitted with Girlings. If you have the bump outs and Armstrongís in the other three positions buy a rear Armstrong to maintain the set. Otherwise buy the fourth Girling. Girlings have a cast iron body and are easily identified by the large screw on tin cap on top. See Chrisís photo. Armstrongís have an aluminum body
|W A Chasser|
|"If your front wings have a bump above the damper position it would be likely that you have Armstrong dampers all around."|
We need to amend this statement to COULD from WOULD BE LIKELY.
At some point MG put in the bumps so they could go either way. I agree later in production (1953?) it was much more likely (maybe even 100%).
My late 52 has Armstrongs but they were NOS. My bolts look to favor Girlings.
|In front the car has GIRLING shocks.|
|My question concerns item #4 from the original post. I have a '52 TD II #TD/C14941. I recently got a spare carburettor aluminium (as the Brits call it) intake manifold and it came with the oil bath. The holes in the intake manifold were markedly smaller than the holes in my "gouged by the bonnet latch" aluminum intake manifold, making me think it was for the 1 1/4" variant of the SU system - not the 1 1/2" variant of the Mark II car. My question concerns the comment by Tom about the size of the Mark II oil bath. He says it is larger on the Mark II car. The bath that came with the spare intake manifold is taller than my Mark II version by a half inch - but only due to the longer throat - the part that clamps onto the manifold. Thus, the center post of the new bath is longer than mine by a half inch, but it is also much thinner than mine. In order to replace my intake manifold and keep my oil bath, I will have to grind out the smaller diameter intake holes to 1 1/2", as well as re-tap the oil bath post hole. Is there any way to tell which bath is the correct one for the TD Mark II? They both have the same markings on the filter mesh unit (AC...). |
|Early MKIIs used a std air pipe and breather. The early 4031 carbs had the air pipe mounting flange slotted to fit the std air pipes. No other mods were made to the air pipe. MG then made an appropriate enlarged air pipe and air cleaner setup to help increase the systems prrformance. The air pipe porting and flanges matched the now non slotted 4031 carbs.|
|W A Chasser|
This thread was discussed between 03/10/2018 and 09/10/2018
MG TD TF 1500 index
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