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MG TD TF 1500 - MC two types and pricing ???
|I am somewhat confused here M 's catalogue names two pr icings for the MC ( two brands also ) |
Which one to buy ? The aftermarket ? in the light of resleeving the one I have postage etc. turns out to be equal to a new aftermarket one. US 136,95
Or buy the " original " Delphi Lockheed at close to US 300,--
I could be very wrong ,but why should I go for the original.
The same counts for the wheel cylinders . Please help me to make a choice,
Thanks in advance,
|Gerard, I bought an aftermarket MC. Fitted perfectly and has worked just fine. Can't comment on the wheel cylinders as I renovated the ones on the car. Also changed to DOT5 fluid to avoid future corrosion problems. I was a bit concerned that the renovated cylinder would leak, but when I took the drums off after 500 miles everything was dry. Matt.|
|The "originals" are really not- different internals, caps, body, etc., just by the "original' manufacturer. White Post will sleeve and rebuild your original, and guarantee "lifetime". George|
|PS- The repro MC I have saw looked pretty much like the original cylinder, different cap I think, and I think has the same internals. Repro rear cyls. worked fine for me. Have not seen the new front ones. George|
|I got from Moss recently a complete set of wheel cylinders as a package which was a lot less than getting them individually. They are the Classic Gold line which is their reproduction offering. I can't tell the difference and they fit and so far work fine.|
|Mark are the ones you got made out of aluminium or steel ?|
To the best of my knowledge they are made of aluminium. They are on the car right now and I can't remember for sure. I'll take off a wheel if you really need to know or I can get at the rear cylinders if I remove the rubber boot. Seems to me that I recall that the studs were steel in an aluminium housing. The ones that I took off are aluminium. On my other TD the old units were aluminium. I've never seen steel wheel cyinders but that doesn't mean much perhaps, in my small universe of my two TD's along with friends TD's. You know, as I think about it, they are aluminium. I had to dress the rear cylinders where they slide in the backing plate so that they moved freely and they filed easily because of the soft material.
|I had my old pitted original MC resleeved in brass by Sierra Automotive Specialty in Quincy, CA, http://www.brakecylinder.com/index.htm and then installed a Moss rebuild kit. $100 including return shipping in the lower 48 plus $24 for the Moss rebuild kit. It's better than a new master cylinder in my opinion. The picture shows the new sleeve.|
|Don't know what happened to the picture. Here it is.
|TA-TC used iron wheel cylinders, not aluminum; they can all be sleeved in either brass or stainless. My choice is stainless, done by Mark Frappier, Agawam, MA, as I have seen brass ones back out - probably incorrectly installed to begin with.|
|Copper backing out is also my fear . Have seen that also ( not MG ) . I'll go for new ones . If I do the math it makes almost no difference for me. New versus re-sleeve and mail and insurance cost duty's to be paid in Canada etc.|
Have a nice weekend .
|It sounds, surprise, surprise, like there are different opinions about the virtues of stainless steel vs. brass sleeeves. I'm certainly not an authority on the subject, but here's what the guy I used says: "The proper grades of stainless steel are fine for sleeves *if* they are installed properly. We often re-sleeve cylinders that have had stainless sleeves installed improperly. The typical failure mode for these cylinders is that the bond between the sleeve and the casting fails, allowing the sleeve to push out of the cylinder when pressure is applied." I guess either one can fail if not intsalled properly. |
This thread was discussed between 19/10/2012 and 21/10/2012
MG TD TF 1500 index
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