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MG TD TF 1500 - MGB Rear to TF?

Will an MGB wire wheel rear fit in a TF? I'm not worried about spring or shock mountings, it's the width that I'm concerned with. The ring and pinion conversion seems a little complicated. PJ
Paul Jennings

Found this online in this BBS but not sure the MGB is for a wire wheel car or a steel wheel car (were there both from the factory?).


MGB - Rear track: 4 ft 1.25in (49.25")

mg td - Rear track: 4 ft 2in (50")

If this is correct then it'll be real close.
Gene Gillam

Paul,
I know an MGA rear end will fit. The stock MGA ring & pinion has a 4.3 ratio, about right for a TF; the early MGB ring & pinion’s ratio is 3.9, that is likely be too tall for a 1250 TF.
David Werblow

Paul

Sorry I am late to the post - I have an MGA 4.3 rear axle in my TF1500, and am happy with the outcome, The MGA rear is a tad narrow than stock TF, the MGB is 1/2" wider than MGA so it may even be a better fit.

This swap did come with some complications. I had to relocate the spring perches, then staighten the housing because it warped, the E brake took a bit to reconfigure, and all the brake lines had to be redone (fittings do not match up, and are routed differently). The next hurdle was that I now had better rear brakes than front, so on hard breaking the rears would lock up - so I had to change out the fronts to MGA to match...using MGB would be even more of a difference.

Hope that helps in your decision, Overall I think effort wise I would have been better off to keep it stock, and just change the gears - and I have had a TF rear axle and front suspension taking up storage space for the last 20 years because I just can't discard them...someday it will go back to original...

regards, Joe B
Joe Buchmiller

Paul,

It looks like you're talking about the complete axle, and not just the cwp.

If the dims you've provided are accurate (I didn't check), then for the sake of ¼", you should be OK. But be advised that the cwp in a MGB is 3.9; pretty low for a T-Series, unless of course, you've added some power.

You will almost certainly have to remove the old spring perches, and re-weld new ones. Ditto the handbrake brackets.

It all seems like a heck of a lot of work just to change the axle from the split axle housing to a banjo-type and possibly end up with a diff that requires a lot of gear changing.

One rare benefit to the MGB pumpkin however, is that its possible to add a LSD, and will the T-Series really benefit from that?

Your call. Let us know what you decide.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

Paul, It seems like an awful lot of re-engineering to switch rear axles. Then you have a mismatch with the front wheels and brakes. I would really recommend that you reconsider the ring and pinion swap (from an MGA). It is not really that difficult. It is time consuming, but, it is a really neat setup. Carl Cedarstrand's booklet gives a few different methods (I chose the Mastell method), and if you take it a step at a time, it is doable. I assure you that I am no more than an average backyard mechanic, and I had really outstanding results! Since Carl's booklet came out, there have been other versions posted by various clubs on this BBS, which actually simplify the process further.
Joe and Gordon pretty well spell out the mods needed for the MGB unit to work, and I think that, in the long run, it's probably more of a headache than the CWP switch. Also, the gear switch will enhance rather than detract from the value of the car!
Steven Tobias

Here is the write up on our conversions - Len Thomas is our expert - as is Don Harmer. I have done two and we have had no difficulties.

http://www.semgtr.org/resources/RearEndConversion3.pdf

I will be doing this on my TF1500 and am bouncing back and forth between 3.9:1 or the 4.1.:1 - would prefer the 4.1 myself.

Good luck - I second the suggestion that you do the conversion,

Jeff

Jeff Delk

Well, thanks guys for all your suggestions and from them I've decided to keep the original rear and go for the MGA internal gear change. I want this car to look as original as possible. The car has correct matching numbers and it wouldn't be right to make any visible changes.
I just brought it home and it'll be a barn queen untill I can get the time to make a frame off restoration. In the mean time I have a few parts to rustle up. PJ


Paul Jennings

Paul.
That is one beautiful MG-TF.
What is the white strip on the rear of the tub just above the spare tire?. Can you supply a photo of the complete dash board. Other than the differential gearing I would not consider a restoration. From the photo it is 20 years or so in the future.
Try this motto.
USE--ENJOY-- PRESERVE.
Do not change the sequence in any way. Drive it till the roads wear out.
Sandy Sanders
SANDY SANDERS

Well Sandy, The dash was home made and wasn't done very well. I have the possibility of obtaining an original dash. I'm an originality nut and I'll do my best to get a car back into that condition. Hard for some to understand, but being retired, I get as much enjoyment out of restoring the cars as driving them. The TF will be a learning experience for me as I know nothing about them. MGBs I know, TFs not yet, but willing to learn.(Grin). PJ
Paul Jennings

Hi Paul - that is a nice TF. I bought my TF1500 two years ago and am enjoying it. Mine is in similar condition and I would advocate driving the car a while and then taking it down. This will help motivate you when you start the restoration (those driving memories!).

If we can be of help let us know. Your ID plate with number will tell you the original paint color for the car. The "Original T Series" Book by Clausager is a must - as is the workshop manual and the T Series Handbook by TSO. The TD Restoration Guide by Schacht (sp) is a good resource as well.

Hope to see you at some GA events.

Jeff
Jeff Delk

Jeff, Thanks for the information. I'm going to send for all the books I can get. I think the car was originally red, but not sure. I know I'll be asking questions in the future. Thanks again. PJ
Paul Jennings

PJ -
If you give us your ID number and prefix we can tell you color and we can also look up the production date - this site will also verify the original engine number.

http://www.tregister.org/recall_page.php?req_page=records_home

keep us posted
Jeff Delk

Jef, I have no idea what number their after as I've typed in the number on the vehicle registration which matches the number on the manufactures plate on the firewall and it keeps kicking back it's the wrong number.
The numbers I have, as stamped on the plate are;
HDC46/ 8353
XPEG/ 654 (same as on brass engine tag)!
Any help on this? PJ


Paul Jennings

Jeff, Hope this didn't pop up twice. I messed up and typed in more than was required. Should have read the instructions! Dummy me! All's well as the numbers match what's on the car! Such a good feeling!
Build date: 17-December-1954. Thanks. PJ
Paul Jennings

and the codes....

gblawson(gordon)

Thank guys! Help much appreciated! PJ
Paul Jennings

PJ - you should also confirm your chassis number by looking on the left front frame extension (dumb iron) on the outside surface where the steering arm exist the inner chassis - near the front fender bolts. The number will be stamped in there.

Congrats on your new car - that is a good feeling to have.

Jeff
Jeff Delk

This thread was discussed between 22/03/2010 and 02/04/2010

MG TD TF 1500 index

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